Crazyeights

The synchros are the brass rings visible in the pics. One of the gears had to be pressed off and back on to replace them for 1st and 2nd gears. This was actually the hardest part of the entire job and the ONLY part that need anything more than basic tools. You can see the "double gear" in the main shaft pictures right next to the bearing. I couldn't get a picture of the next step because it went in to the press and got ugly for a minute. It took some heat and a LOT of force but it finally yielded undamaged These were the only two "crunchy" shift points and they are smooth as silk now. New syncros from Subaru were about $34.00 each. All of the seals were done at the same time including the shift shaft, input and output shaft seals, etc. Ivan can dress up synchros like new with just simple file. I do not possess this level of greatness.

Isn't this info in the FSM somewhere? I'm sure I have read the specs on one of these somewhere. I was tempted to tighten mine up a little and replace the friction. I just left it alone as they are so HTF. I'll follow up if I locate anything.

BTW, thousands of trouble free miles since. It shifts smooth as silk and no leaks! I hope this helps or at least entertains someone. -Jeff

I was going to save these pics for a build thread later. I am SO SLOW in getting my threads started and keeping them updated that most of my pictures never even make it here. I know some people would probably like to see the inside of a D/R trans. I just had this one apart a couple years ago for 1st and 2nd gear synchros and seals. Here ya go;

^^^ Yes, but one mistake and you will be sad. I drove mine around with a yoke zip tied in the back to keep the gear oil in for quite a while and it turned out fine.

This is a Mitsubishi Starion cooler unit on an EA82. Something like this might work. This is not my picture.

Down underneath the car and it sucks. I bought a reman instead for about $80.00 but mine is only 90 amps I think.

Just Google 1996 Nissan Maxima

This engine lost most of the lobes on the cam shortly after my last post a couple years ago at about 5000 miles. Delta replaced the cam at no charge. Sorry I didn't post a follow up. I have since torn the engine back down. I have all the parts to build it back up including a better option for a cam. I also have (2) EA81T engines that I hope to finish this year. I got side tracked (more like trampled) for a couple years. I am back on it now with two EJ swapped Wagons. 1983 GL with an EJ22 (This car had the EA81 that ate the cam) 1992 Loyale also EJ22 (This car was WAY to slow with an EA82) and a 1988 DL project that has done most of the mule work (and gets the best fuel mileage of all 3) I started with a solid lifter engine and I used it's cam for the core to re-grind. What I received back from the grinders was a camshaft with almost NO BASE circle left. It was noisy right out of the gate. No amount of adjustment would ever quiet it down. Finally after a 5000 miles I made the switch to full synthetic oil. Within 30 days the cam was trashed I had a done a Blackstone lab's test on the engine oil previously so I knew there wasn't any metal in the oil. I had forgotten to add a zinc additive to the oil according to Delta and that finished the reground cam off. This time we used a larger base circle hydro cam and did the torque grind down to the stock EA81 solid lifter base circle if that makes sense. @backwoodsboy Did you get a pic of this mod?

What a great car, and with only such minor issues! A "Gem" indeed! Congratulations I deal mostly with FI these days with the exception of an old Holley. Someone else will come along PDQ and help you sort out the carb issues. Enjoy! Lots to look at and see here.

You can actually see it in the first pic. He just added a piece to be able to adjust the belt by the looks of it.

I noticed your post. I own an "exgirlfriends sister" with an EJ22 and a 4" lift Shes a nice ride

Correct ^^^ +1 on this. I would also check the drive gear on it. I had a situation on a 3at that had a small tear in the filter screen inside the pan. It was just enough to let particulates stop the governor from working freely. Finally after about 3 cleanings, each that would last a month or two, I found the tear and replaced the screen. I never had another problem with it.

I owned a white one of these. What a blast to drive! Enjoy it and keep it cool. Radiators for those are tough to locate and if yours is original, it's plugged by now

Congratulations it looks great!

I was lucky and got an old low mile D/R RX tranny a while back too (car rusted out). You scored! That dual range will probably outlast your next 3 Subarus

I just did one of these a short time ago. Just bolt up the EA82 flywheel with the EA81 bolts. Notch the lower rear engine case as needed to clear the EA82 flywheel.

EA82 flywheel to make it proper. Just watch the clearance at the lower rear of the EA81 case. You might have to trim it a little bit. Also, I usually knock off the spare threaded boss near the right rear of the trans case. This does nothing as far as I can see, and hits on the EA81 trans tunnel.

I would just buy that whole car! ^^^^^

Good job, I like it!

This is one good option for you. There are many more. I have used this kit for almost 5 years now, not one problem. http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/engine-swap-parts

Well done, that's a work of art!

Welcome! Nice wagon.

What are your intentions ,street, offroad, both? Lets see some pictures

Welcome '91 what?