Crazyeights

GD, I am about to do a Gen 2 EJ swap. I also have enough hardware to use an XT6 Cybrid pump. Care to share any info you may have on the pump speed control?

Do you have access to a gas analyzer? You can do a cylinder balance while monitoring the HC's and locate the problem cylinder that way. High HC's indicate the unburned fuel content in the exhaust is too high (combustion efficiency is low on one or more cylinders). Some testing will lead to the source of the problem.

Love your Wagon, and your shop is GREAT! Looks like everything that you would need!

Ya, you would think so wouldn't ya:rolleyes: Our All-Data is an old CD-Rom based machine that hasn't been updated in years. Just trying to make the most out of what "I" can come up with myself. Happy New Year everyone!

Any idea on tech ref materials or labor guide software for foreign and domestic? Perhaps they are all subscription based and on the web these days? Although I may get back to my main shop soon - I have brought my big roll away home and locked it up where it's safe. I am trying to put together a nearly complete and much more portable solution for tools like several smaller boxes organized first by metric and standard and then perhaps by job type. I have access to an Interro PDA 2100a 4 channel lab scope and it's been a great learning tool. Finally I can see accurate patterns on injectors, crank and cam sensors, ect. The Interro portable 5 gas is great too. Unfortunately I don't own those.

Tough book looks like a great option.

In this thread someone mentions trying a heated o2. Perhaps try and contact them? SPFI O2 Ground

I tried a 2 wire on mine and the added ground alone helped. Someone else reported back that they were running a heated one and it works even better. I can't remember who but it has been done. I say go for it!

Thanks for the tip! I just ordered one along with some other items.

So you can get enough cranking speed to do this with the plugs still in?

It will be fine - just keep it off of a slow idle for the first 10 or 15 minutes to break the cams in. I would also suggest a zinc additive for the oil if the cams are Delta re-grinds.

The gear marking compound sold at any GM parts department (GM part number 1052351) works really well. I'm sure there are lots of other places to get it too. That just happens to be the one I am familiar with.

Try Saia motor freight. I have had transmissions shipped by them without any problems and the prices are pretty good.

This is GREAT info, perhaps it should be added to the 5 spd DR swap guides. It sure saves a lot of time and the trial and error I went through on my first swap. I ended up fixing the problem but I never could understand why the clutch cable location was wrong. Thanks!

car-part.com Plug in your info and sort by distance, price, ect.

car-part.com There is a bunch of them listed. Sort by price or distance as you prefer. Search 83-83 Subaru Other 1.8 no turbo. Auto trans cars came with hydraulic lifters and most manual trans cars were solid lifter.

Try some voltage drop tests across positive and negative sides of the circuits to verify it's not an in circuit resistance problem. With the engine running, connect the positive volt meter lead to the alternator output lead (the large one) and the negative lead on the volt meter to the POSITIVE terminal on the battery. If the circuit is good and there is no resistance, the voltage reading should be less than .1 volts. Anything more and there is a bad connection. Next connect the positive lead of the volt meter to the case of the alternator and the negative lead to the negative post on the battery. Same rules apply. If the grounds are good the voltage should be less than .1 volts. If all of these tests pass and the IGN wire to the alt is good, the alternator may be faulty (IE bad diodes or...). Good Luck - hope this helps someone.

It should just push in and lock. You might have to give it a few taps to get the snap ring to lock. Looks like the same setup used on MANY FWD axles.

Don't worry about it yet. I would just fix the valve train problems and CAREFULLY adjust the valves to specs. You may never know exactly why this happened, but over the years I have seen it a number of times on engines that were just assembled. Also, IMO there is no way the rings are seated properly yet after only an hour of run time. That could take 1000-5000 miles depending on exactly what was used.

Try "motorcraft ultra sealer" used on 7.3 Diesel engine oil pans and you can almost take all the bolts out and forget them:D

Pull the valve covers and make sure ALL of the rockers are moving when you turn it over by hand. It sounds like it might be a valve train problem. Perhaps a pushrod jumped out somehow causing one valve to stay shut or you lost a lobe on the cam.

I haven't started assembly on this one yet as I'm currently in the middle of wiring an EJ swap. I'll update with measurements once I get the short-block together.

Action Machine Shoreline, WA (206) 546-2082 ask for Rob. Pull the head studs first to save their time and your money. They will also need your new pistons for measurement when boring the block and the bolts to torque the case halves together. Do any cleaning you want to the case FIRST before you send it to them. They will do a final wash after it's done. Good Luck, and PICS!

I have gone through a lot of EA81's and so far none of them has had seals on the exhaust valves (including the EA81T). Some aftermarket gasket kits include 8 seals but I would only use them on the intake side. BTW NICE looking heads! I don't even see any large bridge cracks:D

Perhaps search http://www.car-part.com for a low mileage used engine or try one of the JDM engine sellers in the area.