Mike104

By driver's left knee behind the panel marked OBDII

Make sure you check the fluid level in the radiator (remove cap when engine is cold) not just the overflow tank.

I have similar issue. I find if I turn the key to ON then wait a few seconds until all the lights go off then it starts every time. I did the relay fix but it didn't work. Next likely suspect is battery cables/ground points, etc. Just have her keep trying and it will eventually start.

Some say the pedal feel can be improved by a Master Cylinder brace http://www.grimmspeed.com/master-cylinder-brace-subaru-93-07-impreza-05-06-saab-92-x-94-99-legacy-03-08-forester-baja/ Apparently it keeps the master cylinder from moving due to the firewall flexing. I've never installed one so can't say if it works or not. I have a 99 OBW and have a similar feel to the brakes

Subaru sells the switch with the harness May be cheaper to get one from a pull and pay yard with the harness

Cars101.com does not list Crystal White Silica for that year Impreza. It lists Crystal White Pearl K1X. Best get the paint code from your car and work from that. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/impreza2015.html

It locks the inhibitor in position to adjust the linkage. I think I used a drill bit on mine when I installed it.

Year and model would be helpful, as well as AT or MT For AT it is sometimes called the inhibitor switch on passenger side of transmission for most

Or here: https://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/a/Subaru_1995_Legacy/__6027006/MANUAL-GEAR-SHIFT-SYSTEM/B11-350-01.html PN is 35047AA030 but is no longer available. I would call or visit your local Subaru parts department to see if there is a replacement part number

For part numbers: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_23/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/illustration_2/

On the 99 wiring diagram the pump gets its ground through the switch. Wiper shares same ground point but uses different terminals/wires to the ground point. I'm not certain that this applies to your 2000 or not though Pages from 1999 Legacy_Outback Service Manual.pdf

Only the bracket is threaded. Your idea of new bracket and bolts is best option.

This chart (part of the consumer.. posted above) says it all:

I don't think they will but use a Subaru online parts catalog to see what parts are installed on the 2004 and compare them to what's on the 2010 for confirmation

I've heard others mention some aftermarket hub assemblies have issues with ABS sensors.

11044AA770 is the 2.5L Turbo Multi Layer Steel head gasket PN

Most aftermarket radiators can be used for both auto and manual transmissions you just don't use the oil cooler fittings on a manual car. I've used two from RockAuto after I cracked the plastic bits on the ones installed. Quality is usually worth the price paid

On my 99 and 03 it was a black or gray connector. You have to take the bare leads that are taped to the harness to put into one of the connector pins and it will flash out the codes. Pages from 1999 Legacy_Outback Service Manual.pdf

Read the airbag codes. There is a diagnostic connector under the dash behind the steering wheel with pins you can put in to read the codes. It blinks the airbag light for long and short flashes to spell out the code.

I've put both Subaru (Koyo made in Japan) and aftermarket (Timken made in Japan). Haven't been in long enough to fail and a couple of bearings may not be a large enough sample.

Gas mileage is totally dependant upon how you drive. Short trips obviously have worse fuel economy. I can get 30mpg highway from my 2003 Forester with an EJ20.

Harbor Freight kit works good https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63260.html

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Crankshaft Alignment (Note: This shows a Crankshaft gear that may be different than yours, but the alignment points are the same) Camshaft Alignment

Years ago I ran into a similar issue on my 99 OBW. Head gaskets. My choices (at the time) were another car, used engine, rebuilt engine, or replace head gaskets. I had read the stories about rod knock after head gaskets so was not looking doing that at the tune of $2k since I was going to have to pay someone to do it (dealer as not many independent Subaru shops near me). Was reluctant on the used engine (not knowing what you were getting) or the 2.2L swap (wasn't sure about doing that myself or getting someone to do it locally). Buying a short block would likely cause more labor costs in moving all the stuff over. Since I wasn't able to do the job myself I elected to buy a CCR rebuilt engine and have someone else put it in. In the long run it was the best choice for me as that engine now has over 200k on it since installed. If I was to do the job today, I would go with the Subaru short block. "Doing a halfway budget job of repairing it will only end badly. Do it once, do it right" is the best advice