GLCraig

Here's my opinion. You have it, you seem willing to try it out. By all means go for it, just let us know if it helps any.

Are you sure you are reading the code right? Code 31, which is the speed sensor code, would make more sense. The speed sensor attaches to the speedometer and tells the ECU and cruse control computer (if you have cruse installed) how fast you are going. Since the speedo cable isn't driving the speedo, the speed sensor would eventually think that's something wrong. As for the speedo cable, hey they just brake sometimes, crap occurs. Also, 86 spfi isn't really that rare, I believe that all of the 2wd automatics got spfi

My preference it to get factory stuff for almost everything, including waterpump.

okay it works now. How weird :cornfuzz:

the link dosen't work for me :-\

The big difference between the Fi justy engine and the carb justy engine, is the clinder head. What you'll need to do is take the head from the bad engine and put it on the good one, then use everything else from the Fi engine when you put things back together. While you're at it, replace things like the warter pump and timing belt. I do have some bad news, the ECVT dose not hold together very well, when it take a dive you're best off to convert to a 5-speed.

Check the heads for cracks where the exhaust ports come togrether.

I'm going to guess that the governor needs cleaned out. There is an article on this in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f50d9b8.15492800/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f57fdb83de231.34713659.art

I have some good news, you don't need to completely remove the axles, you only need to disconnect them from the transmission. You need to set the front end on jack stands; the tires need to be off the ground. Locate the spring pin that goes through the inner joint, using a 3/16 roll pin punch, tap it out. Now you need to slide the inner joint off of the stub axle. Now depending on different things the joint will just slide right off or not. If the joint slides freely but won't come off all the way, try turning the steering wheel all the way in one direction. If that doesn’t allow the joint to come clear off, you will need to pop the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. The joint should come off now.

The automatic adjuster that is used on your drum bake is nothing like what GM uses, there is no little star thing to turn. What you need to do is take a small screwdriver, stick it into the access hole and push the release mechanism. A can't really go into more detail then that since I've only had to do this once and that was about 5 years ago.

You would be better of calling Mountain Tech, I'm not sure if they really check their email or not.

Okay from my 83 FSM curb weight, GVW DL 4wd => 2363, 3460 GL d/r 4wd => 2405, 3460 GL auto 4wd => 2435, 3510

okay here's another place to try, http://www.mttechsuba.com/default.htm

have you tried aaron's yet http://aaronsauto.com/

Skip, I have never seen the canister that you are referring to on a EA81 vehicle but I have seen them on the EA82s. Do you know if they ever did put that canister in EA81s. Also I don't see any mention of it in my FSM

The vacuum line for the climate controls come off the manifold if I remember right. When you try another position like heater, bi-level or vent dose air come out of same place no matter which position you select? If so then you do have a vacuum problem.

Sorry but you can't do that conversion. The drive gear for the transfer case on a 4-speed 4wd transmission gets swapped for the driven gear for 5th gear on a 2wd 5-speed. Also 4th gear on a 4-speed 4wd is an overdrive gear.

They flywheel itself is around 25 then the clutch pack is probably close to another 10.

Hi there, I'm sure there are a few guys on this board that would have a spare driveline that they can sell you. The problem is 99.9% of us are here in the States, so the price of shipping would be through the roof. Here is a link to another Subaru message board http://www.ausubaru.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl Most of these guys are in Australia and New Zealand so you may have better luck with them.

Rear disks were standard on all XTs regardless of being turbo or not. If the backing plates were from a legacy, there would be a bunch of extra holes for the E-brake components.

If you use the pressure switch for the oil light, you would also need a relay. The switch is closed w/o pressure and open with pressure. So you would need a relay that's open when energized and closed when not.

if you are refering to the final drive ratio, then yes they have the same 3.9 gear ratio.

Hey Brett, The ignition timing is controlled by the ECU and to my knowledge there is no way to adjust it.

you didn't find a 70's factory rally car sitting in someone's barn, did you?

If you do move to Portland, there is a good independent Subaru shop in Oregon City, (okay i'm a biased since I use to work there as a shop monkey) between the owner and mechanics there is almost 85 years of combined Subaru experience.