Snowman

I like it!

For cheap, I would go with fender trimming and the biggest tires you can fit while running the aforementioned pug rims. You can also get a few more inches of clearance in the rear by swapping in the front springs from an 86-89 Honda Accord. After that, you'll have to buy or make a lift kit. lift kits: www.ozified.com Another good thing for offroading is swapping in the limited slip rear differential from a turbo model, or just welding your spider gears.

A friend and I just made a tool to pull the wrist pins by "modifying" a long bolt. By the time we were done, it was basically a shaft with a little protrusion that you could wedge in there and pry on a nut on the other end to get the pin out. It worked pretty well. Not the slickest tool, but it didn't cost anything. I could get a picture if you like.

I've had my Accel Super Stock coil in the stock horizontal position for two years and it appears to be fine. I wonder if it's more of a slow degradation in the coil's performance though.... It's probably time for a new one anyway as part of the tuneup regimen, so I shall soon find out, and this one's going on vertical.

I've run both NGK and Bosch Platinum, and I can't tell any difference, so I switched back to NGK at the next change and have run them ever since. Haven't ever tried Champion, since my cars, snowmobiles, four wheelers, outboards and scooter have all called for NGK. Just wondering, what does NGK stand for?

I've had really good luck with Quaker State 75w-90 synthetic gear oil, which I changed to in both the tranny and rear diff last summer. After at least 10,000 miles it's still as clear as the day is went in, the synchros seems to be in better shape, and it shifts much easier when it's cold outside. I don't know if this is a common problem with synthetic gear oil like it is with engine oil, but it hasn't leaked a drop yet either. Only disadvantage is the price, but since the drain interval is about three times as long as with dino oil, it's really about the same anyway.

Hey PK, did you get any of my messages? Looking for a lift.

There has been talk on this before, but I have yet to hear a definite answer, so here's the question: My soob is getting lifted early this summer, and it needs 15" wheels on which to mount larger tires. I have two options here. Get pug wheels from somebody down south (pretty sure there aren't any in AK, and if they are it's going to be $$$) and pay for shipping up here, which could be kinda lame. Behind door number two is redrilling for six lug rims and buying some 'Yota pickup steels from a yard up here, which since they are pretty prolific vehicles, the rims themselves shouldn't be too expensive. Now, the problem I can see here is in actually redrilling my hubs. Realistically, for a first-timer who does have access to a drill press, how much work is this, and can I expect it to be safe, strong, and reliable? Any input from people who have done this would be great. Thanks.

On a 1981, the voltage regulator is behind the battery, near the coil, screwed to the inner side of the fender.

My mom's 97 outback must be over 60 or 70 thousand miles, and it runs great, doesn't have any cooling issues, and never leaks a drop of oil.

A picture would be invaluable in determining what this is, at least for me.

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry to stray off topic, but nice Kubota too. Is that a B7100D?

That's freakin' cool!

I would agree with the quality thing. It's totally gone downhill. Cars today look nice, ride nice, and in many cases run pretty good. My old soobs often make strange noises, are a bit dinged up, and require a bit of moral support sometimes, but in comparison to new cars, what really counts is a lot more solid. My cars have never let me down. Ever. Try to get that from a car made in the last few years, especially if it's got the kind of mileage on it that my cars do, and you will be disappointed.

Thanks for that bit of return-line theory. That bit had always made me wonder, and it gives me another thing to tinker with. I should think that the stock fitting would be about the right size, since the rated pressure isn't too far off.

What is that plastic fitting with the red mark on it that is attached to the PCV system? That has confounded me for quite some time.

Probably a bad internal connection if you're not getting any power after the switch at all. Do you have a spare turn signal switch you could substitute?

Roxanne in the sig: From the song by The Police. "You don't have to put on the red light", meaning never slow down. She also is mostly very nice but can be a real whore sometimes. Smeagol, the parts car: LOTR fans, he has lived an unnaturally long and often harsh life, but there is some hope of good. Alice, the fixer-upper, soon to be sold car: "You can get anything you want, at Alice's restaurant... even a free subaru."

Awesome! Mine was made in a similar fashion and I love it. I used gutter clamps instead though. Much, much, much better than that sad excuse for a rack that comes from the factory.

That sounds perfect, as Portland often has direct flights from Anchorage. I'll probably know for sure whether or not I'm going by sometime in June. Whenever I finalize my plans I'll get back to you. Thanks. he he, I can't wait!

Thanks guys. Yeah, emptying of the bowl is exactly what it feels like. It goes like a bat outa h*** for a while then falls on its face (3rd gear up hills SUCKS). I bought a 2.5-4.5psi pump from NAPA and an adjustable regulator from Schucks today. I should be able to install them tomorrow morning before class, and if it gives me any more trouble I'll mount a fuel pressure gauge so I can verify the actual pressure. The float travel will also be checked just to make sure. I figured that the return line was necessary, I just wanted to make sure since the Weber is a new world for me and I didn't want to make a boneheaded mistake. Ahhh yes, an engine that runs like it should is a lot closer to reality.

What are you guys paying for the honda springs at J-Y's? I ask because up here they tend to be quite expensive if they've even got the parts, and I've got a huge discount on new springs from NAPA. They list for $81 each, but they should be about half that for me. Even if it costs more, would it be worth it to get new springs that haven't been on the road for almost 20 years?

bump Anybody know if the return line is needed?

Hmmmm, I've never looked at an ea81 mechanical fan before. They may be different. On my ea82, the flange that's attached to the water pump has four studs that screw into it. The pulley goes on these studs, then the fan, then the nuts. I normally take off my mechanical fan during the winter, and I just take off the nuts, take the fan off, then the pulley slides right off. Unscrew the studs and turn them around so the shorter side now faces out, put the pulley on, and tighten down the nuts.

Hi everybody, I was getting all excited about driving down to Oregon for WCSS6 this year, until I found out that I have to be in class 2500 miles away the next morning. SOOOOOO..... it looks like I've got a free ticket with Alaska Airlines, which means that I could potentially fly down and back and get to see most if not all of the show. I'm just wondering about a few logisitical things. If it would work out for anybody to hook me up with a ride to the show (I have no idea where it is in proximity to any major airports), that would be AWESOME! I would be more than willing to give some cash or parts from my stash to anybody that can give me a ride. If that could work for someone, where is the nearest major airport that I could fly into? Maybe next year it will work out to drive down, but this is really my only option this time. I'll just take a bunch of pictures of Roxanne and bring 'em with me. If anybody can help me out, please let me know so I can plan ahead. Thanks a bunch, Kelly