erik litchy

maybe theres a school or somthing that teaches autobody that can do it. they usually do it for just the cost of materails.

can you go to a local store and pick up some royal purple or amsoil? Ill stick to my shell synthetic Rotella T, cheaper and available most everywhere

ive driven the newer ones one looked like a minivan and the previous gen. it wasnt the handling, but the lack of response, feel, feedback, just an economy car. they may handle well, i wouldnt know because the cars chassis wouldnt give me enough feedback to push it to the limit. the SI did have great supportive seats though and the interior was well laid out, but its clearly just basic people mover nothing more.

i never figured why people mod civics, they are not the least bit sporty. even the si model isnt very responsive. they just arent that great of a chassis.

i hope that supra is done right, lots of idiots put in the biggest turbo they can fit and have the damn thing not spool until 6 grand. that eclipse looks really out of place. im suprised they dont have a POS nissan 240 project car like so many others.

in all honesty whats a good 0-60 time for a subaru. (no bs numbers). my sister rode with me and used a stopwatch and we got to 60 in 5 dead in my jeep.

i cant see the tyre studs

i never knew crankwalk happened to subaurs. i thought it was mainly mitsubishis.

what part the shifter?

take off the belt and turn it by hand. if it makes the noise you can simply change out the ac clutch (a lot smaller job than the whole compressor)

is it leaking or something? if not id just top it off with R12 theres some compatible stuff if your out called Freeze 12 that you can mix that wont harm anything.

truth. mine doesnt care at ALL.

i should mention the trick to finding out how close your engine is to interference engine is to put some modeling clay on the piston and bolt the head on and move it to top dead center and rotate the cam. measure how thick the clay is and thats about how mutch you can safely remove.

im not sure on subarus how big of a issue it is, but on some cars doing so has drastic effects on the cam timing because of the pulleys are now closer together. usually the cure is a belt a tooth shorter. otherwise you can get pretty ambitious.

the stock exhaust varies

pressure and flow are not the same thing. there is a reason the radaitor cap is spring loaded, it keeps the system at a even pressure even as it warms up.

you prabably want to change the dryer and maybe the orifice because when compressors go out they tend to send metal shavings throughout the system,.

i greased the tracks in mine and it made them better

i have this gasket and will send it to you for $2.

just use a nut on a longer bolt. more secure

im not sure but i think lift comes with new strut mounts?

you can stop by my place if its on your way.

why not try a VNT turbo i bet that would be fun to tune

i have the exact problem with my engine, in fact theres a large thread about it. right now its apart because along with the seals my oil rings were seized, and i found out one of my pistons was worn .002" more than the rest. im trying to find aftermarket or used parts as my local dealer takes weeks to get parts. and on my engine it was every seal that leaked. the bellhousing was disgusting and still isnt clean.

this thread is relavant http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25162&highlight=M11x1.25