el_freddo

I’ve been told that waxing the headlights helps to avoid the hazing that occurs. I’m yet to start this practice myself though... Cheers Bennie

Nice score! Very much like our $550 special on a Gen3 RX “Basil” Lights and rims were added. Prop shaft is two piece. Knocking/thudding sound could also be dead front struts. The oil leak is most likely the driver’s side head gasket leaking oil from the no-pressure oil return gallery. Look up GD’s recommendations for HG replacement to solve this issue. Also remove the cam retainer plate when torquing heads down, then clean up, apply high torque sealant and replace. Nice colour by the way Cheers Bennie

Unrelated. It’ll be the resistance pack used for the fan settings. I don’t know if it’s the same as the older Subaru’s that have it in the air ducting before the AC evaporator. One or more might be broken, or the plug has detached from the resistor pack. Cheers Bennie

It’s the heater core. There might be an air bubble in the system. In the old L series this gurgling like sound would happen if the heater hoses were put on the wrong way. I doubt that’s an issue in the Foz though. Cheers Bennie

How did the gears fair after that experience? Cheers Bennie

Wow, these are totally NOT an option over here, nor had I heard of them from the JDM models either. A setup like that would be sweet. I was going to adapt another vehicle’s power mirror mechanism to the brumby side mirrors but never got around to it. Cheers Bennie

Which diff - front or rear? Rear diff will use the same seals as any other r160 diff with stub axles. Front diff could be MY specific so you’d have to look into part numbers etc. Cheers Bennie

I agree with Imdew. This coolant may have caused a short in that spark plug circuit, this dropping that cylinder or producting a weak spark at best. Cheers Bennie

No way is there a broken piston rod in there! You’d hear all sorts of nasty noises and ther should be some sort of hole in the block! If one cylinder is down, it will show up by piling spark plugs one at a time (and replacing them before moving onto the next spark plug). Cheers Bennie

Same as L series and BRAT. I hammer them out with a mallet and a piece of hard wood. Cheers Bennie

EA82sare non interference so it wouldn’t be a valve issue unless it was major, in which case it’d be making more nasty noises than that (if it would run at all). Check your tensioners are still locked in place, it sounds like one is loose. Or you have a big end issue. I’m hoping tensioner Cheers Bennie

Further to Dave’s question - did you ever have a full dipstick to begin with? Cheers Bennie

I haven’t personally. Many have though. Do a search for Anderson in the member’s sub forum and see what comes up. If that doesn’t work try a google search with “site: www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum” on the end of it Cheers Bennie

Auto, you should be able to pull the speedo drive gear and swap from what I understand of auto boxes. The sensor will be on the front diff housing as opposed to the manual box that has it midway down the side of the gearbox on the front half case. There might be an easy fix to this after all. Got the old box to pull the speedo drive cable from? Also - have you confirmed that this box is the same diff ratio as your old one? If there’s a ratio swap you’ll need to swap the rear diff too! Cheers Bennie

If you buy a turbo vehicle, fit a turbo engine to it. Fitting the NA will have wiring issues, the intake manifold may not fit, some sensors may not be the same, cam wheel trigger points could be an issue. Theres a reason why turbo cars can be cheap - quick sale for a not quick car. You could buy it and get a create engine, drop it in and make sure the initial issue that cooled the first engine is resolved. Cheers Bennie

Ah mate, that sucks. Glad you’re ok though! I hope your coupe has a speedy recovery too. All the best Bennie

Do an eBay search or ask at your local electronics store, they should have what you need Cheers Bennie

Transfer case can’t be changed. Subaru did things a bit differently in that department. Engine, gearbox and diff will all interchange and bolt in. Dropping the low range won’t have a huge impact on the use of the vehicle. Clutch will swap in no worries. Rear suspension parts will swap over. There will be a difference in the rear struts. Engine wiring is different, use the intake manifold from the vehicle it came from to run either engine (clear as mud?). I know you got your answers, thought I’d answer in case anyone else is searching for the same. I don’t think I’ve read that thread about the Gen1 and Gen2 compatibility. Cheers Bennie

It won’t be the speed sensor, it will be the little drive gear in the gearbox. This means a gearbox split to swap it to the outback spec drive gear. You should be able to install and calibrate a vehicle speed sensor modifier/adjuster unit. It will require some wiring action and some calibration work when driving on the road. You will need a second person to complete this calibration. What you have is opposite to what gbhrps talks about, and that setup is dangerous in my opinion. It’ll be speed ticket bait too! Cheers Bennie

Gross generalisation warning!! My mum and mother in-law both drive manuals full time. My wife knows how to drive a manual and is quite competent. Before we met she only drove auto. My sister drives a manual, my cousin ten years younger than me drives a manual. Generally females will go an auto over a manual, but that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to drive a manual/stick shift. Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into new turbos from the likes of the ATV crowd? They’d be about the right size for the EA82T. Cost will be the limiting factor here I reckon. Cheers Bennie

^ my thoughts too Cheers Bennie

Umm... mtb’s as in mountain bikes? That’s a little different than the internal operations of an engine Jonno!! That will fill a bit of a gap or slack in the system rather than using the rocker adjustment setup. But it won’t provide any extra lift/opening to the valve’s movement. Cheers Bennie

You will want a full body lift kit. This drops the suspension subframes down with the struts allowing for larger wheels. Adding just spring Lift will take away from your drool or down travel from the normal ride height of the suspension. If you go this way, you’ll chew out your CV joints in no time flat and off-road you’ll lift wheels all the time. Cheers Bennie

Who knows, it could dramatically effect the performance if the valves are not opened far enough. I’d split the block while it’s just a short block and matech the cam to the lifters or vice versa. You’re already there basically. Cheers Bennie