el_freddo

I’d reuse the belt unless it is damaged during removal. Best of luck with the replacement tensioner, I’m also glad to hear that’s what it is and not bottom end knock. Cheers Bennie

Try doing it up tighter I give my 17mm spanner a good double tap with my hand to “hit it home”. Cheers Bennie

Over here the go to tube to use is called “bunny tube”. It’s the standard for fixed lines. Since we don’t have snow and salt on our roads, copper brake lines are illegal due to the ability of the copper tube expanding the blowing out. For the flexible lines braided is the way to go. Our ADRs dictate that braided lines must be covered in a plastic like liner, basically a tube laminate. That’s what I got when I asked for braided lines. Any good brake shop will point you in the right direction for what you need. Cheers Bennie

Got nothing on Melbourne/Victorian weather - winter in the morning, spring by mid morning, summer in the arvo and autumn coming into the evening. The last week we literally had all seasons in one day that also included hail. The day after it snowed down to 700m - a pretty rare event for winter let alone near the end of spring. Going back to the ignition switch - I agree with Numbchux - the starter switch is designed NOT to have power to accessories when in the start position. Thus without a power connection in the start position, there can never be power to accessories unless something went massively wrong, in which case you’d have larger issues at hand too. You could test the wiring and the inhibitor switch by putting 12v to the starter wire, try in park and neutral. If both work, the issue points at the ignition switch. Cheers Bennie

What nvu said. Or buy several washerswhile at the dealership Cheers Bennie

From memory it was $AU220. It was up there with a main radiator replacement but after doing three dash pulls to install second hand units (that all blew in a short amount of time), it was a good investment and it continues to be. Cheers Bennie

Take your old unit to a radiator specialist and have them make one up. Years ago I lashed out on a new all copper/brass unit and haven’t looked back. The rad shop was able to order one in. No idea on part number though I’m sorry. Cheers Bennie

Like any engine conversion - wiring conversion, dash out... it’s been done before so nothing new there. Aftermarket engine management is another option - then there’s the cost of tuning etc. Not for the faint of heart! And as GD said above, it’s costly if you’re not doing a DIY job (and know what you’re doing). There are two H6 conversions getting around Oz that I know of. Both used to be in our off-roading group, the first was a Gen2 Liberty, the other is a SG Foz (from memory). The Liberty was sold on, no idea where it is now. The forester is still owned by my mate, but he now lives interstate. Cheers Bennie

If you have issues with your cam or crank sensors, you’ll usually experience engine cut out or loss of power. It would not be nice to drive if you could get it out of the driveway. If the code is actually the O2 sensor, you need to check this out. It’s located near the RHS driver shaft’s inner joint, but in the exhaust in front of the cat. You’ll see what looks like a probe with wires coming from it. That’ll be the O2 sensor. As for the timing belt. A visual inspection would be good. If you’re really worried just do it. Cheers Bennie

Next step is obviously to read the codes. Record the codes, then systematically check/clean (if appropriate) each sensor. What was the main relay part number in the end? Cheers Bennie

Carpet is available on eBay. Dunno if you can get it in the states. It’s about $AU200 delivered here now. It’s a nice update to the interior as we only got vinyl floors in ours. Dunno about seat covers. You should track down an interior upholsterer and see what they can do Cheers Bennie

I’ve had that happen on my L series too. I replaced the tailshaft/prop shaft with a unit from the wreckers (got lucky with that!) when interstate. Fitted it and drove 800km home from interstate Cheers Bennie

Dead ignition module in the dizzy. Replace this AND the coil. If a coil dies it takes out the expensive ignition module. You wont have spark. No spark, no fuel pump operation due to the fuel cut relay doing its job. Cheers Bennie

Do a cold start and see if you can hear any knocking. I would say there isn’t any. What I think you might be hearing is actually pre-detonation. This can be due to lowered compression, poor timing, worn plugs, oil mist (from blow by pressurising the crank case), worn rings. If you do hear constant knocking at cold start up, even after oil pressure is built up, you’ve got rod knock. Unlikely in these engines unless constantly over-revved, and/or starved of oil. Cheers Bennie

By clutch cover do you mean the clutch pressure plate? Cheers Bennie

What Numchux said - more components. But these will be built to keep your CV angles as they are now if you keep the same strut and spring combo. Going higher will allow taller tyres, which will give you more lift again but will also make your gearing taller and raise the centre of gravity. Driving style will need to change, otherwise you could ruin your forester, yourself or someone else. Cheers Bennie

Hey bigboy, seems like a suitable name! You need to work out how much lift those struts got since you swapped to the outback units. Springs will play a part too. If you want strut lift, I’d recommend a “subframe” drop too. This with the strut lift is essentially a full body lift. By today’s standards of lifting Subaru’s, it’s quite involved. Cheers Bennie

I was going to say the same thing - paint those guards! Is POR15 UV stable? Cheers Bennie

While the engine is cranking, or running poorly, gently tap each injector repeatedly. This can free up stuck injectors. You can also use a length of dowel, or a long screw driver to listen to the injector pulse. It’ll create a light chattering like sound. Cheers Bennie

Have you sussed out whether or not you need to swap heater boxes, or are the actuators easily retro fitted/the system uses what’s already there? Cheers Bennie

I’ve got a ‘93 RS turbo Liberty (2L with WAIC) waiting for me to get an engine together for it. It’ll then go on club rego and be enjoyed Cheers Bennie

In which case (about the overheating), I’d be using the heads from the pick and pull engine. Cheers Bennie

I’d use the headbolts with the head they were last used with. Reuse if no overheating and first time reused. That’s the advice I was given and what I worked with. Cheers Bennie

Ah so you have a povo spec RS water to air intercoolerd 2L turbo, and no WRX. I can see where you’re coming from with that angle. The early WRXs are the best ones. Not many around these days since many, many of them were crashed, modified (hugely molested) they parted out. Cheers Bennie

You could pull down that engine to see what the issue is. Removing the cam on the bank with the dead compression cylinder will allow you to see if there’s a broken valve spring or missing valve spring washer retainer clips (little half moon crescent pieces that hold the washer in place that sits on top of the spring). But the engine from that fender bender unit at the wreckers would be a good option for drop in and go - if the coolant system wasn’t damaged in the crash, or it’s not an insurance job... Cheers Bennie