el_freddo

Dead ignition module in the dizzy. Replace this AND the coil. If a coil dies it takes out the expensive ignition module. You wont have spark. No spark, no fuel pump operation due to the fuel cut relay doing its job. Cheers Bennie

Do a cold start and see if you can hear any knocking. I would say there isn’t any. What I think you might be hearing is actually pre-detonation. This can be due to lowered compression, poor timing, worn plugs, oil mist (from blow by pressurising the crank case), worn rings. If you do hear constant knocking at cold start up, even after oil pressure is built up, you’ve got rod knock. Unlikely in these engines unless constantly over-revved, and/or starved of oil. Cheers Bennie

By clutch cover do you mean the clutch pressure plate? Cheers Bennie

What Numchux said - more components. But these will be built to keep your CV angles as they are now if you keep the same strut and spring combo. Going higher will allow taller tyres, which will give you more lift again but will also make your gearing taller and raise the centre of gravity. Driving style will need to change, otherwise you could ruin your forester, yourself or someone else. Cheers Bennie

Hey bigboy, seems like a suitable name! You need to work out how much lift those struts got since you swapped to the outback units. Springs will play a part too. If you want strut lift, I’d recommend a “subframe” drop too. This with the strut lift is essentially a full body lift. By today’s standards of lifting Subaru’s, it’s quite involved. Cheers Bennie

I was going to say the same thing - paint those guards! Is POR15 UV stable? Cheers Bennie

While the engine is cranking, or running poorly, gently tap each injector repeatedly. This can free up stuck injectors. You can also use a length of dowel, or a long screw driver to listen to the injector pulse. It’ll create a light chattering like sound. Cheers Bennie

Have you sussed out whether or not you need to swap heater boxes, or are the actuators easily retro fitted/the system uses what’s already there? Cheers Bennie

I’ve got a ‘93 RS turbo Liberty (2L with WAIC) waiting for me to get an engine together for it. It’ll then go on club rego and be enjoyed Cheers Bennie

In which case (about the overheating), I’d be using the heads from the pick and pull engine. Cheers Bennie

I’d use the headbolts with the head they were last used with. Reuse if no overheating and first time reused. That’s the advice I was given and what I worked with. Cheers Bennie

Ah so you have a povo spec RS water to air intercoolerd 2L turbo, and no WRX. I can see where you’re coming from with that angle. The early WRXs are the best ones. Not many around these days since many, many of them were crashed, modified (hugely molested) they parted out. Cheers Bennie

You could pull down that engine to see what the issue is. Removing the cam on the bank with the dead compression cylinder will allow you to see if there’s a broken valve spring or missing valve spring washer retainer clips (little half moon crescent pieces that hold the washer in place that sits on top of the spring). But the engine from that fender bender unit at the wreckers would be a good option for drop in and go - if the coolant system wasn’t damaged in the crash, or it’s not an insurance job... Cheers Bennie

Sooo clean, even with that bit of door rust! The rust looks easily treatable. Cheers Bennie

Really? Like what? We missed out on turbo brats (brumby), wagon’s and coupes. We didn’t get the hatch as I’ve mentioned and we also didn’t get the huge variety of wagon trim options like you guys did the the states! With the L series we missed out on the coupe (I’d have an RXII coupe if they weren’t a special import, I can’t afford that!) and the XT6, not to mention the various turbo wagons etc. We did the the RX turbo sedan. This was the only turbo model readily available, the other was the expensive of the time XT4 (Vortex). Other than a dual range EJ AWD manual gearbox, I don’t see much cooler stuff in our line up! Cheers Bennie

If you’re confident, methodical and good at cleaning mating surfaces, there’s no reason why you couldn’t do a HG job with the right tools. A mate who knows how to do these things is always helpful to have on hand too. All the best with it, sounds like a neat project! Cheers Bennie

Here’s your ignition relay 1 and 2 part: https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=82501AG040&qty=11 From here: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Subaru&ssd=%24*KwGrn46q_K7wycDH59atofPnx8Der6CtrL6otdmg3uDs2OS_puzou6Csq7u0ve3i9PCprL3j5-7f5uKn8KO61diry9eki4XmoN-vrKutpq7i4vD8uqWmrKmzv7ns6LvZveMAAAAACVjUhA%24&vid=0&cid=315&uid=10059&q=JF2SH9KK49G022593 I too can’t seem to see a main relay reference other than that of the diesel option, which is the same relay as the ignition relay 2, from here: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Subaru&ssd=%24*KwHL_-7KnM6QqaCnh7bNwZOHp6C-z8DNzN7I1bnIvICMuITfxoyI28jGyNvU3Y2ClJDJyd2Dh46_hoLHkMPatbjLq7fE6-WGwL_PzMvNxs6CgpCc2sXGzMnT39mMiNu53YMAAAAA6bicUw%24&vid=0&cid=304&uid=9643&q=JF2SH9KK49G022593 This is the part number: 25232AA100 from here: https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=25232AA100&qty=2 Hope this helps. Regards Bennie

It could be a sticky IACV. Also a good time to check for any stored codes, this might give a clue as to what could be part of the issue. Cheers Bennie

When you check for power, do you have someone hold the ignition key in the start position? If not, the circuit has not been correctly tested. You could also try a contiuality test between the back of the switch to the starter solenoid. Have you tried running a wire from the starter soleiod pin to the positive on the battery to test the starter? Also another thing to check is the auto start cut switch - the one that only allows cranking in park or neutral. Cheers Bennie

I thought I was starting to see double! Made me check where I’d scrolled to more than once! Cheers Bennie

Another trick is to fab up a 17mm bolt with two nuts locked on to it and welded for good measure. Then use your regular 17mm socket to do the job with your hex key adaptor. Cheers Bennie

You’d have some difficulty damaging that shaft - it’s a solid lump of hardened steel. Your money, buy away, but I think you’re wasting your money. Cheers Bennie

Try cleaning the idle air control valve (IACV). This could be causing issues with idle when cold. Not could be a number of other things too: - coolant temp sensor (*should* throw a check engine light) - dirty throttle position sensor contacts - dirty injectors Check the ECU for any stored codes. Find out what these relate to and investigate one by one. Fuel pump or dirty/poor fuel quality could cause issues too. Cheers Bennie

On the RHD vehicles there’s two on the RHS and one on the LHS from memory. They sort of look like an accordion tube with a metal rod on the back end that pulls on the lever. On LHD vehicles these might be swapped around. Remove the kick panel above the driver’s feet and pull the glovebox out - this will allow maximum access to both sides of the heater box. From here you can work out where the bits are that you need to mess with. There will be a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister that DaveT talks about. Check to make sure this is still connected at both ends and doesn’t have a split in it. As Steptoe said, I’ve not had a problem with the vacuum switch panel in my L series. The fan could be a series of things - fuse? Check first! Next would be the resistors in the air duct for the different speeds. But if these are the issue you’ll usually have off or full speed without one or all other settings. Or your fan is toast. Or there’s and issue with your fan switch. Or there’s another issue at play. All the best with it mate. Cheers Bennie

I’ve not heard of anyone replacing the diff stub axle due to a leak. There’s no reason to. Oil seals will eventually fail due to age, going hard etc. If there’s an issue with the stub axle this will be part of something larger, which you’ll be more concerned about since there will be nastier symptoms! Cheers Bennie