el_freddo

Have you checked to ensure the sensor isn’t damaged? I noticed in a YouTube video on a Gen2 that the abs sensor has a little flat pin like piece to read the ring tone. Apparently it’s really easy to break these while doing work on the driveshaft and it’s recomended that you remove the abs sensor before doing any work in this area. I’d confirm that the sensor is not damaged. And my experience of worn wheel bearings on the EJs is that they don’t necessarily have that slop in them that allows you to wobble the wheel. But they will have noise in them, that’s a confirmation of a dead bearing if there’s any rumbling in them. Cheers Bennie

I agree, walk away. Find the right vehicle and be patient! Or the other way around really Choose what you want to do, find one that needs the HG and timing done - barter with the seller (private or used sales) to being the price down, then either DIY the work if you’re able to or have a reputable subi mechanic do the work that will give you piece of mind with your purchase and its ongoing reliability. Cheers Bennie

Small things and larger, more annoying things. The L series has a push forward low range lever. The brumby and later EJ models all have a pull up/back lever. The L series has a poor engine design, most likely a reactive move due to the 80’s marketing catch cry of overhead cam. In my opinion it was a rushed design and should’ve been dropped for a small EJ engine that would’ve been a thousand times better in the L from the get go. The EA81 was bullet proof and they had EFI versions of this ready for the L series (In my opinion; many manufacturers will put the next updated engine into the higher end model before it’s released across the board in the next model, it helps with R&D of final real world bugs and builds consumer confidence). On the other side of the EA82 is the sturdy EJ22, just as bulletproof as the EA81 and if not, almost twice as powerful. The larger, more annoying issue as the black sheep is how people and parts catalogues can often mix the L series/Leone with the MYs and the Liberty/Legacy models. I’ve had times where I was sold Liberty tie rod ends and ball joints etc because the updated parts catelogue change the part numbers to that of the Liberty/Legacy. Some things (well, one actually) that do carry on from the L series is the gearbox layout/design. There are changes to the back of the box for the AWD but the general front cases layout hasn’t really changed in the 5spd setup. Cheers Bennie

Did you check your other fuses? Does the CEL illuminate with the ignition key ON, engine OFF? Cheers Bennie

As for the fluid left in the the torque converter you can either do a series of fluid changes in quick succession to rid the trans of old fluid. Or another method that might work is one commonly used by Pajero owners but requires two ppl. Firstly, work out which line on the oil cooler is the OUT line, disconnect this and hang in a collection bucket/pan. Have the second person start the engine and let it run, the pump in the trans will pump out most of the fluid. Once the flow reduces/splutters the first person yells out to the second person to shut off the engine. Drain the rest of the pan, replace filter and refill with the given amount of fluid that came out. Check the levels again after a short drive. Now with all of this, I am yet to do this with our Pajero, but it’s on the list since I don’t know the history of the fluid in the trans. Let me know if this method won’t work or will do detrimental damage to the trans (looks @GeneralDisorder and @FerGloyale) Cheers Bennie

It depends on the ambient air temperature as to how long they run for. I’ll have to time it next time it’s warm If you’re going to do a flush it’d Ben a good time I have your radiator professionally rodded, unless you’re good with solder and heat. They’ll pop an end tank off and carefully insert a rod down each channel to remove any crud or build up. Once that’s finished they might push some water through each channel to get any loose stuff out. Then the end tank goes back on, pressure checked and the whole thing flushed. This will ensure the radiator is using all of its cooling area as effectively as possible. Cheers Bennie

Do a search about rebuilding. Common consensus is don’t split the block unless you really have to (or you’re dropping in a mid cam). No worries about the info, it can be confusing when new to the game. Cheers Bennie

@Ellaurance - NO TIMING BELT. Single, dual or otherwise on the EA81. The EA81 definitely has a set of gears at the back of the engine as mentioned previously. No need to touch these! Just keep the oil and coolant in the right places and enjoy the ride. They’re a tough little engine the EA81. Now EA82 on the other hand, this thing has dual cam belts/timing belts. A rubber band could be better... they’ve got black cam covers on the front of the engine and look very different to the EA81. EA81 has dizzy at the front of the engine, above and to the RHS (vehcile’s RHS) of the crank. EA82 hasthe dizzy at the back of the LHS head. Hope this clears up any confusion. Cheers Bennie

You’re talking about 4wd bind. Since there’s no centre diff to allow differences in front and rear axle rotation, the gearbox and pinion shafts are effectively working against each other. With all four wheels on the ground the inside wheels will try to spin to reduce the stresses on the drive train. If you try to drive up an obsticale that compresses the suspension ina diagonal fashion - eg: front left and rear right, the front right and rear left will loose traction and both wheels will spin, losing much of not all of the vehicle’s momentum. This is due to two open diffs and a locked centre between the two axles. If you have an LSD in the rear, you’re more likely to power over the obsticale until a rear wheel is lifted, at which point the LSD won’t be useful. Cheers Bennie

Normal operating temp where the thermostat is not fully open, so it’s monitoring the temp as such: Thermo fan kick-in/ON temp: Looking at your pic in comparison, it’s right on the same mark for thermo fan ON. I haven’t looked to see at what point on the gauge that the fans turn off. And don’t worry about my oil pressure, I need to put the sender unit on and hook it up as this is a relatively fresh dashboard conversion in my Brumby. Cheers Bennie

And RIP the EJ series! Cheers Bennie

I did something similar for 18months until I was forced to swap inlet manifolds due to a cracked thermostat base. It used to need a shot of fuel down the carb and a good, strong battery to get it started (lots of cranking and hope!) After swapping the intake manifold to an auto choke unit it started and ran ace every time! Then it was EJ’d and I’ve never looked back since. So much better!! Cheers Bennie

That’s a normal level of operating temp - it’s the point where your fans kick in. My brumby does the same, and with the mid 30*C weather we’re having already atm, it’s there all the time when sitting in traffic, once moving it usually drops back down. I’ll grab a couple of pics over the next few days to show normal running temp and thermo fan kick in point. Cheers Bennie

You won’t fit a LHD cable to a RHD subi. What you have there is a DL L series or Leone wagon. They’re like the black sheep of the Subaru family in a few ways, are parts interpretation books quite often mix them up with the MY and the Liberty models. With the pressure plate yours will be the larger one for the 4wd gearbox. The 2wd gearbox uses a smaller clutch pressure plate and disc - at least that’s what I found with the series 1 fwd sedans, I’m not 100% sure they kept this setup in the serie 2 fwd L’s. Cheers Bennie

It could be sensor or it could be a break in the wiring from the sensor to the main loom, you’ll need to check this out and determine which one it is. Cheers Bennie

If that was a historical code I’d be clearing that ASAP. The crank angle sensor could cause a cut out issue, I’ve not know them to create a hesitation, just loss of all power/rpm until the engine stalls. The crank angle sensor could be the issue, while rare, it could be a good avenue to look into. Go second hand. Cheers Bennie

I was going to say new fuel pump required, same line as naru2 is on with the fuel pressure. Cheers Bennie

Thins issue with the yoke breaking should have been diagnosed and sorted well before it was allowed to let go. There would have been loads of signs of this issue - noises, oscillating vibrations... Best of luck fixing the issue. Cheers Bennie

Or a dirty AFM.

Dying fuel pump? Bad spark plug could do it maybe. Does your check engine light illuminate when the engine isn’t running but the ignition is ON? How many km on it? Cheers Bennie

My take on the TOD. Air or lack of oil pressure in the HLA’s allowing the piston/knob (part that the cam follower sits on) to bottom out internally in the HLA. This eventually wears out the base of the HLA where this piston/knob piece sits, allowing oil to pass freely out to the open space of the engine’s internal area, thus not maintaining pressure or keeping the HLAs pumped up and doing their thing. Best solution to this is an EJ. Worked for me. My EJ has a quieter “TOD” when the oil level is at the low mark Cheers Bennie

I’m with DaveT on this - it’s an issue with the auto choke. Cheers Bennie

Sick looking hatch! I’d have one if they were available over here. Same for the L series RXII coupe! Cheers Bennie

Stick with anything EA81 and it’ll fit. As for junkyard item vs chain store vs quality radiator builder, I’d go the builder if possible. You might be surprised with the cost they could build a radiator for. They usually need your old one as a template if the vehicle is not staying with them. Cheers Bennie

They were developed by some members from the board from memory. It was a very interesting process! I don’t know if any are available these days though. Someone will know the dude’s contact details. Cheers Bennie