turbosubarubrat

What i did on tuesday Chiseled/cut out the jack holder Today Built so i can upgrade to a deep cycle truck battery after this cheap parts car battery craps out. Only wiring left in the bay is for the transmission All the gauges are wired up now and the wiring is tucked up(forgot to take a picture for that)

Some pics before i went on vacation. Chopped shroud since the new radiator was 1/4" narrower new thermo switch

Or pull the rear section of drive line.

I know they're rare i had a hard time finding a distributor for one and a new 2 pulley water pump. I was about to modify a 85/86 ea82t distributor to work but a forum member helped me out and sold me one. They are rare but rare cars are worth money after years. The prices in the USA on Japanese imports from the 80's back keeps going up. The only hard to find parts for a ea81t is the heads that aren't cooked and some electric parts. If you don't mind going custom and aftermarket you can run them distributorless using a msd ignition system, custom fuel system, up grade all the outdated electronics. In 20 years a factory turbo brat will be over 50 years old and there will probably only be as many as the fingers on your right hand left.

I would rather own a baja bug with a subaru swap or a chevy 350 swapped in the front

A true ea81t has enough power to make you happy. The two i had were speedy even with the crappy auto's. I would have kept one if it was a brat or coupe instead of wagon's. I would keep it bone stock besides converting to manual since i hate autos. They do make performance parts for ea81's but they're meant for air craft use. This includes intakes, heads, and superchargers. http://www.flygas.info/en/subaru-ea81-cylinder-head.htm There is a mod floating around to use two coil pickups and two coils. I put a ej22 in my hatch and love it. I just need to work out some stuff and will be daily driving it lifted 6 inches with 29's. Sure you have to do a bunch of work but it's totally worth it if it's what you want. My brat is getting a carb'd ej of some sort. Either a stock ej22 or a ej25 block with 2.2 heads. There are a lot of advantages and disadvantages to both it really depends on what YOU WANT TO DO WITH YOUR CAR.

Hopefully to the meet at PIR. The smoke is clearing out of my engine so I should be good to go once I run it around on the farm some and do a few more things.

Tell drew to put the plate on the front bumper some cops get pretty pissy about it and will give you a ticket. My friend almost got one driving between Gresham and Sandy.

Because the pumps do go bad after having so many miles on them. I have replaced 2 of them before because they were weeping from the weep hole so you know they're bad.

When you do the hoses just order the upper, lower, and the one by the water pump. Everything else can be made to fit by the foot at the auto parts store.

Currently the engine is out and torn apart. Another ej22 i have is out of the white legacy that i also tore apart and i'm currently resealing that one. It's prepped and ready to have the redone heads put on then put back in. Old cracked block Vlsd, Clsd, and welded Swapped in the Clsd carrier so now i have a 3.9 clsd in the rear.

Switched to google for picture storage so pics should last forever. Here is some update pics from awhile ago... I need to do something different with the mud flaps...

It was making so much pressure it was making seams on my radiator come apart si would say it was gaining pressure faster than the 7psi cap could take.

Your going to probably have to heat it up with a torch, hit it, and spray it with penetrating oil.

Yeah that's what i mean. With the hitachi distributor you can usually walk into the parts store and buy the cap right off the shelf.

On my dad's 78 brat it has a manual choke on the dash board not sure if yours has that. Pics of the dash and carb might help.

I would just swap it out for a hitachi with the module in the distributor at this point. I've got one if you can't find one closer.

If the rubicon has stock axles i would say no since they turn into smiley faces offroad or they break the tubes. A friend of mine builds axles for a living and that"s all he sees on jeeps that are stock besides being lifted, bigger tires, and being regeared sometimes.

Get a awd legacy and do the diff lock switch mod then weld the rear diff.

Swap in a ej22t block with ej20t heads

I use a 3/4" Ingersoll-Rand impact and it works great. On some of the stuck stuff you have to keep the impact on for a awhile until they break loose. Had a transmission drain plug that was so tight i had to use the 3/4" on it because it wouldn't budge with a 25" breaker bar with a cheater bar.

Put some high temp loctite on them.

Yes over charging the electrical system F's things up pretty bad over time. You could ruin your battery or fry electrical components. It should be at about 14v + or - 0.2v if you put a multimeter on the battery giving it a little gas about 2000rpms. It could be you have a short too. I had a brat that had a short when you tried to use the blower fan the tac would go to zero, fuel gauge would go to max, and so would the alt gauge.

I would start with testing your alternator to see if it's actually putting out 16v+

Bubble balancers are better for small tires/rims. I've had tire shops tell me and my dad that all the time guys who have done this 20 plus years. On the farm we have a old coats bubble balancer we picked up for $20 a couple months ago which works great for the subaru's because of the big hub. People have been selling these on craigslist for $200 plus. like this one