turbosubarubrat

Really depends on the climate for which viscosity you need

75w90 is what factory recommends i'm running carquests 85w140 in mine right now.

Depending on clutch material and miles the flywheel could have gotten worn out.

86 hathcback -6" lift -tires are 235/75/15's -ej22 swapped with 91 ob1 harness -5 speed d/r -3.9 clsd in the back -rear monroe shocks are for a f-350 -ea82t front end (spindles, hubs, brakes, struts, cross member, steering rack, control arms, ect.) -rear disks -6 lugged hubs -custom rear bumper found in junkyard -cut down semi trailer mud flaps -factory brush guard -cherry bomb glass pack -lengthened drive line iirr 9" eventually i need to get a shop to weld my ends to a new piece of tube eventually...

I would just go with the 6" for the 235/75/15's. You could probably make them fit with a 4" but a lot of cutting and bashing. Hes a thread to look at for a better idea http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113949-lift-and-tire-size-combo-pics/

You still have the brown relay? On my ej22 swapped hatch there was a small black wire off of it that wasn't hooked up. It didn't have fuel or spark either until it was hooked up.

I saw a trike the other day and thought of this. The one i saw had a v8 and 9" rear end though.

I'm running that size on my hatch with a 6" lift they're about a 29" tire http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-comparison/. If you get them to fit with a 2" you will have to cut the fenders and fenders wells quite a little bit.

Slow starting could be corroded battery cables/ends or a weak starter.

Legacy seats mounted in

Got the shifter done and the 4wd shifter done. Also got the radio and speakers wired in.

When i do mine i always check the hole by lining it up with the punch so the old factory pin just slides in with a few taps.

Depends on where you want your suspension to bottom out at and whether you want bump stops or not.

My ej22 swapped hatch lifted 6" with 235/75/r15 tires runs about 2500-3000 in 4th gear at 60-65. Haven't shifted into 5th yet since i don't need to go faster than 55 until i go on the highway which would be 65-70. I put in the 3.9 5 speed d/r trans and it's a good combo.

Replaced to knock sensor with a new one from napa since all mine are cracked. Fill stupid since i didn't notice the IAC hose popped off and that's the only reason why it wouldn't stay running. Put on a longer hose and now i'm good to go to bnw subaru show once i get a few more things done.

She must be pretty badass since i got the thumbs up/waves just going out of my driveway on the road the first time. First time she has been on the road in at least 3 years and since i've owned it was thursday. exhaust wrapped engine/trans brace

If your able to lift it higher and get bigger tires that will help. In my lifted hatch in 4th gear at about 2500-3000rpms i'm going 60-65mph if i did shift to 5th i would about be lugging it unless i get on the highway to do 70-75. It has a 6" lift and 235/75/r15 tires and a stock 3.9 5 speed d/r.

You need a 36mm for the castle nut. I've had good luck with the new axles at Oriley's with the lifetime warranty. Haven't heard good things about the rebuilt ones.

Turns out the code 13 is a 12. Which is the ignition starter switch. Any ideas.

I' pretty sure they are different as in the ea81 and ea82 clutch forks being the same. The push button 4wd ones are the same i can't say about the 2wd's since i've never compared then but i think they should be. If your in a jam bend it back into place, weld it, quench in oil to add strength, grind if needed, and hope it holds.

That won't work for 6". I either need to heat it up with the torch a little to tweak it more or scrap the idea and make another shifter linkage other than factory.

From what i've read code 13 is the cam angle sensor and 22 is the knock sensor. Block is a 92 ej22 with a 91 harness in my ej swapped hatch back. It will start up and run with the high idle then drops down to about idle then just dies. A couple times it acted like it was searching for a rpm going up and down then dying. It will keep running if you put your foot on the peddle but it will miss and possible back fire. Ran great the past 2 days until tonight when i was done tightening up all the lift blocks to be safe... I'm guessing it's only one of the sensors but it might be both won't find out until tomorrow night or sunday. I have spares off 2 motors but would like to know what some of the more experienced ej guys think. Thanks in advance.

Sounds like a blown head gasket to me. Especially if there is a constant stream of bubbles with the engine running.

This is the pdf for the dual ignition https://www.facebook.com/download/901202013259247/Dual%20Ignition%20Conversion.pdf

When the engine is up to temp, is the coolant bubbling with the radiator cap off? If it is it has a blown head gasket. To make sure it's not a clog drain all the coolant and flush the system with a garden hose for awhile. Fill up with water until you find out what the problem is. Have you tried burping on a incline so the radiator is higher up? Could have a air bubble blocking off flow. Was the temp sensor replaced before or after the issue?