turbosubarubrat

The throw out bearing should have been in the clutch kit. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268311,parttype,1968

Timing could be off, spark plug wires could be out of order, bad spark plugs or wires, bad cap. Check all 4 wires and plugs for spark, make sure the distributor is lined up at tdc on #1, and double check the plug wire order. The fuel pump control unit is located under the dash on the drivers side by the hood release handle bracket.

How many miles to the gallon are you getting? Are you doing a lot of short trips or do you commute with it? My dads stock hatch has 241 thousand miles on it with a weber 32/36 that i put on and tuned. It gets about 22-24 with a mix of highway and short trips. The distributor is fully advanced on it and it has quite a bit of power. It helps your gas mileage if you stay out of the second barrel too. Your carb could be jetted wrong for where your at. I know skylar is getting 16-18 with his lifted hatch which is about what your gonna get with it. My hatch with a ej22 gets anywhere from 25 on the highway to about 13-14 for short trips/playing around.

Rev limiter on a ea81 is the push rods bending and breaking.

Mine wouldn't transfer heat. I got good flow out of it but just by running water through it backwards but it didn't change anything. Then i tried scolding hot vinegar in it and let it sit for a day. Same thing after i flushed it still no heat. I kind of think it had some hard build up from the valve being closed most of its life or somebody used some form of stop leak in the system.

1.) The wires go into the harness inside the passenger side quarter panel i would just patch whats bad other wise run new wires from the dash back. 2.) I take it you have already played with the spin nob on the end of the headlight switch to turn them on/dim on the head light switch? If you have i would say take it apart and try cleaning it. 3.)Have you put a multimeter on the battery will running to see what it's actually reading? While doing the test see what it reads at idle then at 3000rpms. If that checks out at around 14v i would say the gauge is read high. The stock gauges suck and get out of calibration. I've had them read 8v-16v but when i go test them they read around 14v

This guy has one for $25 plus shipping http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156071-1988-gl10-part-out-no-engine-trans-or-diff/

I'm eventually going to put a legacy brake booster and master cylinder in my ea81 hatch along with a proportioning valve. I was looking at my parts car shell test fitting the non abs brake booster it looks like if i hit the strut tower a few times it will clear

v6 auto Ford tempo springs cut 2 coils still need to cut 1/2 or a whole coil off. They lifted the front about 2 inches so i cranked the torsion bar a little bit so the height is even. They give a better ride with the new gabrial struts but now i have camber in... I'm eventually going to upgrade to the 90 legacy brake booster haven't decided on what master cylinder i'm going to use. All the brake boosters have the same bolt pattern as you can see the ea81 spacer on the 90 ej22 booster.

You the guy on facebook with the silver ea81t?

You could also try a helicoil but i don't know if they make it in the correct size.

My guess is ea82 since the valve cover holes thread into the aluminum came towers. I worked on a ea82 that came with a broke bolt for the valve cover which had the grommet plus a nail holding it on. I pulled that off, cleaned the surface and the grommet then put on high temp rtv. It hasn't leaked or fallen off yet for my buddy.

The whole thing is spot welded together so you either have to drill out the spot welds or cut it out.

You have to pull the whole dash to do it. Hardest part is the getting the 3 10mm bolts up top on and off with the windshield in.

Or just go by how many likes a post has.

Could of had a air bubble and boiled over. If you haven't burped it facing up hill i would try that and let it run for awhile letting the fans/thermostat cycle. If your seeing a constant stream of bubbles and the radiator is pressured i would say it's a head gasket.

Here is a part of a build thread on it with more links about it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146198-subaru-brat-ea82-turbo-bastard-project/

I did about the same thing on my hatch to the floor pan but i welded all the holes shut or put rubber plugs in

Not yet i literally bought them 10 minutes before i posted that. G55785 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gabriel-G55785-Suspension-Strut-Assembly-/231742909522?hash=item35f4f42c52:m:mxWfMXOL1YP3ZDyhAt4eHXg&vxp=mtr G55784 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gabriel-G55784-Suspension-Strut-Assembly-/251842585924?hash=item3aa2fce544:m:mmkP3IJ-Hxl5GRn8IMEvU6Q&vxp=mtr

I just bought a set of gabrials for $81 off ebay with free shipping(cheaper than rock auto). I've heard some good things about them and thought i would give them a try. Better than having a blown front drivers side strut.

People swap to the ND to get better spark from what i have read or put in 2 ignition modules in them for better performance. The stock coils are all pretty much the same besides lengths from what i have noticed. I've swapped the 2 brands together and never have had a problem. You could upgrade to a accel super stack or a msd coil if you want a stronger spark.

There are no kits for these it's either DIY or pay someone. To get the seats redone where i'm at $350-400 for the pair don't know on door cards. The door cards would be easy to do if you use black vinyl with adhesive glue.