turbosubarubrat

You should try ospho for your rust. It kills rust and leaves the surface rust free with no primer needed.

The engines your going to want are a ea81, ej22, or ej25. The ea81 comes stock carb'd so that would be the easiest. You can put in a ej22 and convert it over to be carb'd by taking off the passenger side cam cap and use a early ford escort distributor. Same thing with a ej25 but you only use the block and swap on the ej22 heads. I don't know what you want to do for a transaxle / transmission / rear end on this but there are a lot of combinations. You could mount in a 5 speed w series toyota transmission with a bellhousing adapter to mount to the ej22 or ej25 then have a solid rear axle. Other than that you could use a vw or subaru transaxle.

That defiantly sounds like a rod knock with how it gets louder at high rpms. Not unheard of for ea82's and ea81's to get them. The original owners of my 82 coupe ran the ea81 low on oil which caused the rod knock only has 163 thousand on it.

It doesn't even have a ecm so no codes. They only came with ecms if they had feed back carbs which where mostly in California, 82 model year equipped with carter weber carb, or 83/84 ea81t.

Saw this one and the red one with dual carbs on craigslist. Just curious why you didn't get the one with dual carbs? I take it that it has more rust.

You should make a set of custom fronts next that would just bolt on. That way you could keep stock axles on what you guys call MY series brumbys, coupes, wagons, ect.

I really like what you have done with this and waiting to see what you get out of this. There is guy that lives fairly close to me that supposedly builds these up to put out 200hp. I haven't met him but have met his buddy with 87 gl turbo. I'll look through my phone and on here to try to get some info for you.

Since you moved/are moving back to Washington you might as well cut the cat open to gut it then weld it back shut or just cut the cat out.

I would check the injectors since they go bad. EA82T injectors are the same. The pump you want is off a ford efi truck with dual tanks commonly found on f-250's and f-350's.

Didn't see any pics of your brat on facebook. I was out there awhile back and heard there is guy out there with 4 or 5 of them. When i was out there i saw a 1st gen with roll bar/brush and met the owner. He lived/lives at house right next to a trailer park/rv area on the main roadway of ashland before the old down town part probably a couple miles it's hard to remember its been 2 years. If he is still there he would know where it's at or would know somebody that might.

I usually get exedy clutch kits but have used luk with good results too. I get mine off ebay or they came with cars i've bought. While your at it i would replace the front main if you haven't along with the water pump. I would just reseal your oil pump since it's really easy to do. 4 o-rings and a gasket. Don't use a cork gasket for the oil pan they never leak if you use rtv.

There should be 3 press fit freeze plugs per head.

Haven't seen a ea82 with that carb on it before let alone throttle cable setup like that. I really like the water block off plates with the thermostat relocate though. Rochester 2 jet.

I have those 2 ea81 3at's still with flex plates and torque converters. The flex plate would need the 8 holes drilled out to the bigger ea82 bolt size then would be a direct fit.

Dealer. Contact lithia subaru by email or call. A friend of mine just got all the badges for his 83 wagon from them.

You can still get those emblems new from subaru for not much money.

Yes it will bolt right up they're the same as ea82's. It only has 162 thousand on it. The engine that was in it was ran low on oil while being driven from prineville to bend by the original owners. I also have a 4wd 3at with 197 thousand that came out of a 83 ea81t wagon with a seized turbo. I would take $75 for both of them together with torque converters/flex plates just to get rid of them.

If you also want it lifted Patrick makes and sells kits out here in sandy too. He could convert it over while installing the lift if you don't want to do it your self. I'm converting my 82 coupe from auto fwd over to a manual 4wd currently and resealing the engine. Is a manual or auto? Are you keeping it auto or manual? The 3at's suck so i wouldn't go that route. I have the whole rear suspension, drive line, and a 5 speed push button 4wd.

I have most of the stock parts to convert to 4wd if your interested. i'm out in Sandy so not to far from Portland.

Sell the 2wd and buy a 4wd would be the easiest. Otherwise you need all the 4wd stuff off another ea82 which would bolt on. If you where stuck on going rear wheel drive put in a ej engine with the toyota transmission adapter and a solid rear axle.

The outer ear cracked on the intake in my ej swapped hatch i just cleaned it with a wire brush then applied jb. I didn't unbolt it after it cracked since i could see it was partially cracked so i just cleaned then applied. I'm eventually going to replace it but that will be when i pull the engine for a frankenmotor. I have about 2500 miles with no problems with the jb weld though.

For wrenches i really like the s-k long handle superkromes they are comparable to the snap on long handle version. I have a set of the s-k and our farm has a set of the snap on both are really good wrench sets. I have a mixed assortment of tools filling my dewalt box from sk, craftsman, proto, snap on, harbor freight, new britain, napa(old not the new stuff) ect. I really like a lot of the s-k tools from now all the way back to s-k wayne. Most of my ratchets are craftsman from the old v series, vintage thumb wheel ratchets with handles, i have the newer 3/8's thin profile fine tooth ratchet that i go to by choice that i've used almost everyday for the past 2 years with no problems. I have a long handle 3/8's snap on ratchet that i need to get serviced since it has some broken teeth. The rest of my ratchets are s-k with are professional tool truck tools which are coming back under new management. Most of them are the old s-k wayne and have never been rebuilt i just oil them every once in awhile like the rest of my ratchets. When i go to mhcc for there subaru program i'm going to take advantage of there student discount for snap on tools which is about half off the truck. I will be getting rid of the cheaper tools out of my box and add them to my cars tool box if something breaks so i have more tools to work with.

Search for one for a ea82t which is a vf-2, vf-3, or vf-4 from what i have read. Your 84 would have a ea82 turbo already on it since a lot of the 83's burnt up the vf-1 oil cooled ones and dealers installed ea82 turbos. I had a early 83 ea81t wagon that didn't have any of the hook ups for the coolant so i had to plumb them in (T off the heater hose and the pipe going to the head).

The ones you have picked out must of been ran hard, starved for oil, or extremely over heated. The current ej22 block in my ej swapped hatchback has a little under 195 thousand and is running strong. I picked up a whole 92 legacy for $200 for the engine then parted the rest out so i have made money off of it. The crank pulley key was sheared off and it had blown head gaskets otherwise it ran fine in the legacy after replacing the stripped timing belt. I've heard the dnj kits off rock auto are pretty good from some people i have never tried it. I haven't tried it since if i go through the trouble i'm going to build a high performance ej25 block with ej22 heads.

Swap the 83 harness back in so every thing plugs back in. As you can see your 83 harness has 1 round connector while the 84 has 2 which are different sizes that won't plug into each other. The 84 2wd harness would of been for the feedback carb so it had a bunch of extra emissions crap which is why it has more connectors. The egr valve vacuum line goes to a port on the carb. I think the pink connector is a test connector. The coil wires are right. Just pull the o2 sensor harness off(pulls off just like a spark plug wire) it doesn't do anything since you don't have a computer for it.