turbosubarubrat

Click on my build thread

Scott already commented right in this thread.

Somebody might of installed the blocks wrong. If it was one of the early kits made it probably just has that much camber. I would talk to him about it.

Exedy 15008

If the motor mounts are shot then the transmission mounts are bound to be shot too unless they were replaced. The bottom 2 parts in your link are the motor mounts. If you buy the westar brand ones for the engine and transmission it shows they ship from the same place so that cuts down on shipping cost.

2 door hatch. Short wheel base and almost no back end to get caught in the ground when going up steep hills.

Stock jeep axles are fine until people do crazy stuff off road, put on way to big of tires, or they just don't know how to drive. I have a friend who has been building custom axles for over 20 years and he gets tons of jeeps into his shop with bent axle tubes from the tubing wall being to thin. The way yours is set up is perfect to drive on and offroad. I wish we had a Oregon group going around where i'm at. Tons of places to go around Mt. Hood.

Its so nice i'm sad i sold it, but i needed money at the time for other projects and more cars. With out selling it i wouldn't have my 86 hatchback. If i kept it i would of defiantly taken off the hitachi with all the emission stuff. Besides the egr and cat then add a weber to it.

Glad you picked the old girl up i know you will take care of her. It originally came from the Gorge in Oregon if i remember right it was bought from The Dallas Subaru. A orchard farmer who was the first owner bought it and used it as a truck out toward Odell. It a sat a couple years ago since he couldn't drive anymore because of age besides his son using it for hauling fire wood. One time when he went to drive it, it started smoking bad so he brought it to his mechanic. This mechanic told him it needed a new engine so it sat at the shop for a year before going on craigslist where i found it. I bought for $350 put a battery in it, dumped a little fuel down the carb, and it start right up no problems. The only thing i found that caused the engine to smoke was the side plug on the radiator broke off which i just replaced with a bolt. That was only thing i found wrong with otherwise a road worthy brat besides a few minor things. Once i fixed it up i sold it to monstaru(Brian) who owned it a couple years and passed it on to you. Here's my facebook album on it https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.479459422189201.1073741839.100003754435547&type=3 Here's the old thread on it all pic links died but are the same as above http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147552-1982-brat-350score/

Any auto parts store with wire and toggle switches. Only other option is a used one. I haven't found any place that makes new ones and finding a nos one will be hard.

Does the fan work? If so maybe think about adding a second one if it hasn't already been done. Don't let it get that hot. These engines don't like it and will blow head gaskets. If you have bubbles appearing in your radiator or coolant loss the damage is already done.

A is a fuel pump control unit. One of the round relays is for the starter i forget what the other one is specially for. Those 3 black relays on the fire wall might be for the ac system hard to tell without some pics of the engine bay. The relay by the wiper motor is probably for a set of driving lights.

That will fit any 4wd gen 2

Yes. Also depends on what one you use. Many off road guys use it to seal things like the distributor cap because sometimes their whole engine is under water.

RTV

Its a sjr bumper http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/bumpers/ea81-front-bumper-detail

Weird i posted a video i found that showed how to test the motor.

If i kept this car instead of selling it 2 years ago i would of swapped it to a 5 speed. How many miles are on the old girl now? Back then she only had 136k miles.

By hooking up a negative and a positive wire to the battery to jump it. The motors only have 2 wires so depending on what way you jump them they will make the window go up or down.

82 and older had lights you could turn on/off without the ignition switch. 83 and up had headlights that would shut off with igntion off. I don't know if you've owned one before but when you turn the headlight switch all the way that's the setting for low beams(2 outer lights). With low beams on you push back the turn signal switch for high beams. The hazard switch could be corroded or the fuse could be blown for it. You will have to play with the dimmer to get the lights on cluster or the bulbs are burn't out. The dome light has a ground that gets corroded right on it and if you clean that should help.

If the contacts in the switch on the door card are corroded that could be your problem. The window motor might be corroded too so it might work if you take it apart and clean it. The first thing i would try is jumping the window motor straight from the battery to see if that's your problem. If it works you could have a broken wire from the door opening and closing.

Your better off looking for a 5 speed ej 4wd dual range. They can be found on ebay or engine importers.

Found some new seals that fit nice more info here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160203-new-2nd-gen-coupe-quarter-window-seals/

I found these on ebay and they fit perfect. All i did was clean out the metal seal rails with a small flat head, cut the seals to length, then worked them in with the rounded edge of a pick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Metro-Quarter-Window-Glass-Seal-Insert-VS3/391537716170?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38618%26meid%3Df40e18573b3e4b399d840be2d82131a2%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D391524456322