mikaleda

Here is a pic for the block ground I replaced the original with a #4 AWG welding lead and it seems to like it better.

Large wire to the engine block just above the right hand side valve cover, small wire goes to the chassis

It's probably not rtv, there is a special windshield adhesive that they use that is black, it sticks way better than rtv. acetone works well to help get it cleaned up nicely.

Lol I agree Chaz345 I had a truck come into work the other day that les Schwab had done the brakes on and they totally neglected the fact that the Master cylinder was bad :facepalm: I would never let les Schwab touch my car even to put tires on I'd rather do it my self.

They should both be single pronged here's a couple pics Sorry the last pic is upside down, but that's what the sensors look like. Acctually I should say switch and sender since their not technically sensors.

If that doesn't work maybe a resurface of the cab base plate and the intake mating surface would be a good idea, or at least check for trueness

I personally never use anything on my intake gaskets, I put them on dry and I've never had a problem, I'm using a hygrade gasket in my gl right now and I haven't had any problems

90 legacy L is a Manuel antenna and it is in the roof. tie a piece of bailing wire to the end of the old attend wire before you pull it out then when you pull out the old wire you can connect the new wire to the bailing wire and pull it right through this saves alot of time. I would use some rtv where the antenna mounts it would be a good way to make a new seal around the antenna

I've got an alt and a solid state VR if you want it OCD it came Of an ea71 and the VR is a brand new Ecklin VR

Regular gas $3.77 per gallon 19 mile drive to work one way at 26 mpg (my 80) it costs around 27.52 a week to get to work Registration $34 a year (for my 80 or 90) Insurance $80 a month That's it aside from oil changes and parts costs

Fusible links are the first suspect, also check for loose chassis grounding.

You beat me to it I was just about to post a link to that thread

I just had to post seeing some of the myths in here, compression braking doesn't affect milage, evn though your engine is spinning at higher than an idle the fuel/air flow is the same as at an idle. it doesn't hurt your clutch other that you at shifting a little more often and if you know how to rpm shift this isn't a problem. As for wearing stuff out quicker compression braking save ALOT of wear on your brakes, I tend to use a mixture of brakes and compression to slow me down it works well as a happy medium. Compression braking is not bad for your engine as long as you are sensible about it and not revving the engine way up when your slowing down. Just my $0.02

Throw out bearing would only make noise when the clutch pedal is depressed, the TO isn't engaged when the the clutch is engaged fully.

IMHO that sounds like a bad pressure plate, you probably need a new clutch kit.

I thought I would just chime in again, I'm now running 195-75-r14s on my 80 without a problem. it does rub when I hit the brakes and turn, but that is because of my bad strut rod bushings, I'm running Kyb gr2s I havent had any problems with offesets or c.v.s yet and I've been rough with it, I'm going on 2,000 miles with this setup today (its my daily driver) Also with this size tire the speedo is off 5mph at 20, I don't know what it's off at higher speeds, but I think it's off about 7mph at 50

There's an added benifit to this, the FBI can't read your brain waves if you wrap your car in tin foil. lol

Yep the filter should be right next to the pump under the hood

That doesn't look like the fuel filter, do you have the pump under the hood? If you have the pump under the hood then that's were the filter is, if the pump is under the car the filter will be next to the pump.

Or it's a marketing scam to make people pay more for their product your probably right though.

I know I'm a little late, but I have ha this problem before so I just thought I would add my idea. First heat up the bolt and easy out and them take a punch and shatter the ez out and suck all the peices out, then drill the bolt out and use a heli coil or threadsert. This method has worked good for me.

Synthetic ATF? Isn't all ATF synthetic?

Lol I like the bacon grease idea!

It all depends on maintenance, I have an 80 with 130k on it that was just about dead when I got it because it was so badly maintained, but I have a 90 legacy that has 211k that is in great shape because it was well maintained. Aside from known problematic years and engines you could get 300k without major repair as long as you take care of it.

Dude, that kind of attitude is not going to get you far in life. Monstaru knows what he's talking about and he told you where to look and a search of THIS site would have shown you all you would need to know. Seriously though, you should really calm down and think before you post, no offense and any bashing of my post will not be responded to by me. Your post is a good way to get your thread deleted.