idosubaru

there's some good information on the site about doing it yourself, do a search. new usually isn't that bad. you can find one used and have it installed for 50-100 bucks as well. i have a parts car and will be paying someone else to install the windshield into my daily driver instead of doing it myself. be sure to check if temperature matters and you have a sufficiently heated area to install it in, the urethane may need to be above a certain temp. some say this is a serious safety hazzard, i think it's just a PITA like mentioned earlier so i'll pay someone 90 bucks to do it and be done with it.

i tried it myself on XT6 heads. it's not that bad of a job, just time consuming which you say you don't care about. there's a fair amount of casting flash in the intake ports that can easily be cleaned up. have a good die grinder available, cheap ones take really really long to get anywhere. you're not looking for radical design changes in the ports, just cleaning up rough casting flash and gasket matching. proper higher level porting jobs where you change the ports would require bench flow testing to make sure you are equally changing all the ports. i posted before and after pictures at xt6.net. i'd also check the intake manifold gasket where it meets the head, on the XT6 the gasket was much smaller than the actual ports, so the gasket essentially blocks the passage. the EA82 isn't much different from the XT6 (same design) so i'd look at this as well. i posted pictures of the gasket covering the intake ports on the heads before and after i cut the gaskets down to match. a valve job is a good idea, no point in trying to make power on questionable valve seating and valve seals. if you don't want to do that, make sure the cylinders hold pressure. if you don't want to go through an entire head job, at least install the heads and do a leak down test on them before going any further. make sure there's no leakage through the valves before proceeding. the risk is that if there is leakage then you'll waste the head gasket to pull the head and have the valve fixed. but if it tests fine then you avoided the head work and $150 ish charges for that. if you can weld, install a turbo and run very low boost. i'd probably look to buy a small turbo before going with delta cams if you can do the exhaust work yourself. or do both if you can afford. turbo is so much easier to get power out of. get a good running engine and a low boost turbo. delta cams, exhaust, intake is all nice but NA is hard to work with for power. i have an XT6 and i think even that is a waste of time trying to get more power out of, not much return for the time/money. turbo is the only option now for me, besides good tune up and a good running motor.

if you're sliding then i'd blame the tires or driving before the AWD. if the tires aren't sticking i don't think any type of FWD or AWD is going to aid you nearly as much as skilled driving or better tires. i'd look into a good set of snow tires. i am much better at coming out of a slide with AWD than FWD. i'm either used to the AWD now that i almost always drive them or the AWD is better in those types of situations or a little of both. i'm not a racer so i'd lean towards the AWD being much better in coming out of slides.

used hubs for $45 1800 358 8770

great price for an excellent job on having everything done. good post, that will be good information for others with these issues. oil pump requires timing belt removal, so doubtful you'll want to pay for that job any time soon.

i don't have any explanation on the wiring, but you can have a look. look at the O2 sensor on the car and/or look at the wiring harness for the O2 sensor to see how many wires/pins it has. make sure the one you get from the store or order has the same amount. you could also stop by the dealer and have them pull one out for your car, look at the wiring and go buy it elsewhere. i think i've heard of most people on here talking about 3 wire sensors, so that's probably correct.

i agree with replacing the O2 sensor first. i wouldn't replace the cat converter just yet. had they replaced the cat it probably would have fixed the problem because they would have installed a new O2 sensor with it. i'd probably go to a different mechanic too. head gaskets can last a long time while leaking. they can also fail. i've seen dodge neon's (the older ones go through headgaskets on a regular basis) and older subaru's go many 10's of thousands of miles on slowly dripping head gaskets. in two different cases i put 30,000 or more miles on a leaking headgasket before i finally replaced it and they never failed completely. one was leaking internally and the other was external. the internal leak, i still have the head and would post a picture if i could, but there was significant wear of the head for a very small area where the leak was occurring. it is repairable but i just replaced with a new head since i have extra motors. this is not recommendable but i would choose this option before getting a new car payment (not that i'd ever buy a new car, but if i had too do that.) surely each case is different, but my external leak never got worse, just a few spots of green on the cross member (under the motor) every now and again. neither cases had oil/coolant mixing. the internal leak did eventually get worse very quickly, the external leak never got any worse before i repaired it after a long time of waiting. best bet is to replace the gasket of course. if it starts to get hot though you better quit driving or it will blow in short order. my coolant system is typically in excellent shape so i keep my cars running cool. the heads do not need to be removed to inspect the valve clearance. i believe the dealer charges quite a bit for this.....$300 or something.

my friend hosed his crank pulley on his toyota in florida (someone didn't reinstall it properly). i looked up machine shops on Yahoo Yellow Pages in his area in florida (i'm in maryland). i called around until i found one that said they'd take a look at it. the dealer and one other shop quoted him thousands of dollars to replace the motor just because of a bad crank pulley. BS. it is fixable, you just need to find someone willing to fix it. after about the 3rd phone call i got a guy that was willling to have a look and seemed like a good guy. $500 later and he saved his truck and buttloads of money. i'd suggest contacting a few machine shops, show them pictures if you have too if it's not driveable. have fun, gary

there is some dyno information here, but not a ton. do a search for dyno and see what you come up with. myxphlyx has done a good bit of dyno's with intakes and exhaust and so has WJM, with varying setups. i removed the a/c compressor and didn't notice anything while driving in terms of gas mileage or power. (on an XT6).

the XT and XT6 are two very different animals for lifting. the XT being an EA82 platform can utilize the EA82 lift kit. the XT6 can not. the front struts, suspension, hubs and other things are different. if you want to put together you're own custom kit you're golden, but if you're looking for something to bolt up the XT kit will not work for the XT6. i talked to AAA about supplying XT rear lift items and EJ series (impreza) stuff for the front in the hopes that would work since impreza struts can fit on the XT6....but that wouldn't work either for some reason. i forget why, but you could find the AAA thread (it's a long one) about the christmas group buy and see commentary there. good luck and post pictures, i for one would hope it's an XT6!!

you learned first hand what i was telling you earlier in this thread. glad you're finally getting it taken care of. if the attorney is good this will be a breeze for you. a bad attorney is typically lazy, not aggressive and doesn't have much initiative. you'll get reimbursed but it'll take forever. they balked and now they're going to pay for not trying to deal with you honestly and straight up. have no sympathy.

your record isn't the driving factor for insurance companies. insurance companies don't care about how many points are on your record. they assign their own point value for any violation that occurs and also can retain those any amount of time that they want (within the law, if there is one for that), possibly even beyond when the points may be on your official state driving record. so even if you have a "clean" driving record because your past tickets are finally not on it, the insurance company can still make their own assessment of risk based on other information.

Xt

definitley not the case. done it on a number of subaru's, no change. doing it right now actually. no difference at all, not even a teeny bit. no, i already explained this earlier in the thread. again - done it before.

when you installed the head gasket were the proper reinforced o-rings installed on the cam carriers? there's one small o-ring at the base of the cam carrier that must be replaced with a reinforced type oring that is hard to find. Subaru and http://www.thepartsbin.com are the only places i've ever seen carry. never seen any autoparts store carry this oring. a regular oring will cause issue, similar to what you're having, but would probably also cause a small amount (or large?) of seapage at the corner of the cam carrier as well. your oil pressure sounds great, that's well above normal for most soobs of this vintage on the road today. reseal the oil pump. here are a few tips i typed up for the XT6, yours will be slightly different but very similar: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5243 is the ticking all over the engine or localized to one cyilnder/one side?

are you talking about the front pads? if it's like the XT6 (emergency brake on the front) you'll need the special brake piston socket. attaches to your socket wrench, it's a small tool that costs about 5 bucks. it's a little square with different knobs on each face, one side will slide into the subaru pistons. the piston needs to be "turned" while pushing in, so a C-clamp won't work. here's a picture of the tool: http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?1145 they also make a special kit that was on sale at harbor freight for 19.99, well worth the 20 bucks. the tool mentioned earlier is testing at times, this kit is much nicer. this tool is part number 40732-0VGA from www.harborfreight.com they are normally 39 or 49.99, but it's on sale and was 19.99 when i got it a week or two ago. no ads or anything priced 39 at the store, but rang up 19.99. great deal. if you're talking about the rears then none of this is relevant!!!

pretty straight forward, like he said. remove crank pulley, timing belts and necessary covers. remove oil pump. great tip on the XT6 - use a 32mm socket on the oil pump impellor, perfect fit to loosen the nut on the face of the oil pump and replace the seal. the XT oil pump is a little different, so i'm not sure if the impeller is the same size, been awhile since i've done one of those. but my guess is there's a socke that will work if it is different. use a dab of anaerobic sealant at noon and 6 oclock on the oil pump housing to help seal where the two halves of the block come together behind the oil pump. install gaskets/seals and you're done. if i recall right, the FSM isn't very clear on the torque specs for the oil pump. here's a link to the oil pump write-up i did for the XT6. EA82 is a tad different, but this may help if you run into any issues: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5243

someone tried installing a larger MAF on an XT6 and it did not like it at all. i believe he is right about the ECU. it is very simplistic i would guess in terms of air flow. ideally the sensor would send information "this is how much air you're getting", but after those failed tests which i helped out with some i believe the ECU gets info from the sensor and internally calculates "how much air i'm getting" based on a predetermined cross sectional area of the MAF sensor. increasing the MAF sensor will effectively make any calculation the ECu makes incorrect since it still uses the "old" size. just a guess, but it didn't work that's for sure. BUT - i say try it, it may have only been an issue with the particular MAF he was attempting to use. they are cheap and easy enough to work with, give it a try and let us know!

95 is the first year of EGR on the 2.2's but the last year of dual port. if you use 95+ then swap the exhaust header as well and you're fine. don't know about the EGR issue on older ones.

i'd call around yards and ask, they may have one with a bad block they're willing to take parts off of. also the pull it yourself yards around here have zillions of EJ22's all over the place, never see any old subaru's. they'd be like 5 bucks there, i'd check a local pull it yourself yard. i've gone to pick up alternators, a/c compressors, ignitor coils, etc, they always have EJ stuff.

there's no possibility of rear diff issues from just removing the driveshaft, if anything it'll make it last longer, less power (none from the trans) going through it so less wear theoretically though that would never show itself in practical terms.

that's not the only reason to do it - failing transmission, broken axle shaft, bad drive shaft ujoints and failing rear differential are other possibilities.....except for failing transmission i've been presented with all of those issues in subaru's and used the driveshaft removal method for anywhere from a day to a year and a half with no issues. i've done it enough to know you are exactly right too, no gas mileage difference!

none, i've done it before. drive away. definitley zero effect on your rear diff, it won't be seeing any power so that's not an issue. if you're constantly powering on the duty solenoid C you may cause issue, but mine never failed and i've done this before. i have a switch in place to control my duty solenoid C so it's gets lots of use. no issue to date, this is on the first gen of 4EAT transmissions, the newer ones do seem to have more issues than the older ones, but i would expect no ill effect based on my experience. i've done this to auto and manual trans and driven lots of miles, highway miles, 1600 miles round trip back and forth between maryland and georgia....no problems. first - the driveshaft slides into the transmission so yo'ull definitely need to keep the end of the driveshaft in there to prevent fluid from pouring out the rear extension housing. the driveshaft slides through a seal in the rear of the transmission. so you have to remove the rear half of the driveshaft (they are typically in two "pieces"). if you remove the driveshaft and try to drive, the rear output shaft of the trans will spin....but it's not connected to anything and fronts won't get any power. it's because of the way the trans works. try it, but you won't go anywhere.

you need to start simple for going into less common failure areas. i would not suspect the fuel pump to be a failure point this early on, anything is possible but fuel pumps very rarely fail on subaru's so it's a bit of a gamble to start looking there in my oppinion. most people on the old gen forum are running their 200,000 mile 20 year old fuel pumps still. test the battery. make sure the connections to the battery are clean and tight. when was the last time a tune up was done? spark plugs and wires? use NGK plugs and OEM Subaru wires or magnecor only, don't use anything from the parts store counter for plugs or wires. how many miles are on the vehicle?

i would look for the cable and verify if it is or is not there first. out of the top of the trans (just behind the motor) and also check behind the instrument cluster....get all twisted lying on the floor and have a flash light handy.