idosubaru

you need to start simple for going into less common failure areas. i would not suspect the fuel pump to be a failure point this early on, anything is possible but fuel pumps very rarely fail on subaru's so it's a bit of a gamble to start looking there in my oppinion. most people on the old gen forum are running their 200,000 mile 20 year old fuel pumps still. test the battery. make sure the connections to the battery are clean and tight. when was the last time a tune up was done? spark plugs and wires? use NGK plugs and OEM Subaru wires or magnecor only, don't use anything from the parts store counter for plugs or wires. how many miles are on the vehicle?

i would look for the cable and verify if it is or is not there first. out of the top of the trans (just behind the motor) and also check behind the instrument cluster....get all twisted lying on the floor and have a flash light handy.

depends. what kind of driving are you doing? if it's not many miles because you don't drive the car much, then you're probably fine waiting. although personally i'd change it every 4 months since it's cheap and that's only 3 times a year, that's pennies. if you have low mileage due to short trips i would change it now for sure. if this is the case you may see residue/condensation under the oil cap. think it comes from the engine not sustaining operating temperatures long enough..something like that, due to short trips. if that's the case i would definitely change it instead of wait.

i didn't know that. good to know. they are nice, but when abused annoying. if turned off there would be questions that others would assume should be easily answerable. no perfect solution except tolerance.

signatures are nice. signatures are a pain. i like them. but, the foundational goal of this board is probably something related to building a resource for subaru enthusiasts. when i'm researching and find a good post about some procedure but have to scroll through 10 pages of information because one users signature takes up a large portion of the posts, it's annoying. not everyone has smoking internet speeds and likes waiting for the next page of information to load. or if we're scrolling through pages trying to help somene, also annoying trying to find the details of the situation. in defense of the "offenders", many probably assumed it didn't apply to them, or never read those posts. i like the idea of deleting the violators, but realize that's not a good option in dealing with communities this large. i don't mind not having signatures now that they're gone, brings the forum back to practicality. the added functionality is worth the price to me. we'll always be needing to tell what vehicle we have. lots of people are new users, passing through, have more than one subaru, work on other peoples subaru's, on other forums, and should get into the habit of providing that information. if that starts to hog up time i'm sure the mods could add that info to the info under our name....like state we're from.

inexpensive, easy to work on, i'm familiar with them, have the FSM's and tools for mine, have lots of spare parts if needed. non-interference engines (i know pre-1997 2.2's are as well though). air suspension, better gas mileage and i like the XT model.

your best bet is to just disconnect the driveshaft to the rear differential (very easy to do) and drive with the FWD fuse in that way. no further worries with the trans.

this is not the case. the 1995 is only advantageous because of the dual port exhaust that the later 2.2's don't have. which isn't an issue if you have the y-pipe (or a welder). sensors won't be an issue.

yes the dealer can pull the code and charge $75 just for that. advanced auto parts, autozone and other chains will pull the code for free. most likely will be cyilnder mis-fire. replace your spark plugs and wires. use only NGK plugs (factory OEM plugs, but you can get them anywhere) and OEM or Magnecor wires (only aftermarket brand i'd trust on these goofy motors). you'll find a large contingent of members here will suggest OEM plugs and wires and that's for a reason. if they've recently been replaced, make sure they were OEM Subaru spark plug wires, not some off brand. any previous engine work done?

i have a set of WRX wheels in excellent condtion with snow tires if you're interested and i'm headed up the PA Turnpike this weekend. NA stands for Normally Aspirated (non-turbo) engine.

i've seen NA EA82's do this as well. i've replaced the oil cap o-ring, on an EA82 that wouldn't idle unless i pressed really hard on the oil cap?? weird, but i'm an XT6 owner and they don't do that. always wondered why.

no but i've helicoiled plenty of other bolts holes. works great and not hard at all. might need a right angle drill to get to some holes. if you have easy access, definitely go this route as it's not difficult at all.

well yes, except they are a pain to remove and as tight/pressed in that they are i believe them not to be a cause for concern. the motor was fine i was replacing the oil pan gasket and figured i'd replace that oring while i was in there.

probably just need to pump up. i'd give it a little more time unless you suspect a serious issue that may result in damage. i don't know the car, maintenance, what it sounds like, drives like etc so hard to make an assessment. i know of one person that used permatex grey type gasket sealant on the cam carriers. some got sucked into the oil port and the HLA's were all loud on that side. he posted pictures of the "blob" as he called it. had to disassemble, remove blob from oil port in the cam and all was well. one good reason to use anaerobic sealant on the cam carriers and oil pump instead of anything else.

the interior of one auto awd parts car is already stripped of seats, console, steering wheel, carpeting, etc... so it's worth at least a look.

220,000 miles, rusted very bad all over the place, every body panel just about is compromised in some way. body is shot. motor is locked up (hit some firewood on the freeway). time to move on, body is terrible and extensive drivers side door/rear fender damage from a little fun in the snow. i hate body work, i'd rather start with something decent and no rust. i have an auto parts car with the interior already completely stripped, so it'll be easy to at least track down the wiring to see how ugly it is. thanks alleyboy, i have the FSM's as well...i might need help translating them though if i look at them!

i have one already soldered up ready to go if it's the same as the XT6 (which i think it is). just have to splice it in place.

check out my permanent fix to the coolant temperature sensor. it's rarely the sensor that is to fault. save yourself money and future issues: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=coolant+temp

dylan, your best bet is to pull the power steering reservoir off and install a new o-ring. i believe between the reservoir and the pump there is an oring that leaks all the time. from what i've heard that oring is the major cause of power steering pump leakage and it's super easy to do.

look at that link he just posted. those three pulleys in the picture are the "bearings" your mechanic is talking about. buy these new here, or repack like the thread i mentioned earlier. looks like a good deal, go for it.

i will if i have to. i'll check the harnesses first and see what's there and what is not.

i already have a switch to lock the rear transfer clutches which is essentially the same thing. it would be cool to use the Center Diff button and the instrument cluster DIFF LOCK light in place of my existing radio shack switch and custom mounted LED. hhhmmmm...wiring. we'll see, luckily i have a parts car and my old daily driver auto which has now become a parts car so i can have a look at it.

turbo's can get great mileage considering the horsepower they can put down. the trade off isn't necessarily that bad, depending what kind of mods and how much power you want. but you can get significant increases without much mileage loss. i wouldn't worry too much about loosing low end if you want to experiment. like i said, the intake/exhaust mods don't make a huge difference and that applies both ways. i doubt you'll experience any significant loss that you'll feel, i doubt you would experience any loss at all. i've never noticed any loss with intake or exhaust mods except when running straight pipe (no converter, no muffler) also when i installed modified cams. again this is all from older subaru's i haven't played with my 2.2 at all. but NA motors are similar in regards to lots of effort required for HP gains.

i think that's the best approach. i won't ever try to remove one again. find it highly unlikely that seal could be broken. there is an o-ring up there that is why i removed mine to replace it. it wasn't nearly as tight when i reseated it as it was when trying to remove it. i would have rather left it like it was knowing how tightly seated it was. i recall someone from the old yahoo boards years ago mentioning that it shouldn't be messed with because it's pressed in, but i don't know how true that is. i will say that when i got mine out the orings was brittle and in terrible condition, flattened, hard and cracked. looked more like a cracked washer than an oring. not that i've seen. would be hard to diagnose though, might be easier to assume it's oil pump, main bearing or some other oil supply component related. it would be tough to pinpoint that as the cause. wonder what CCR does with theirs? they've done a ton of these things.

there is an XT6 specific site http://www.xt6.net you will find lots of XT6 information and owners there. 2 things come to mind, first is a tune up. distributor cap, rotor and plugs. wires dont' typically cause issue but not a bad idea to replace if they have any age to them. replace all of these items at the same time. use NGK spark plugs only. replace the PCV (use subaru only) while you're at it. though this isn't the cause of your problems. second thing i'd check is the MAF (mass air flow sensor). it's the electrical gizmo bolted to your air box. the only physical way to check it is to remove it and look inside of the sensor box. you'll see very thin wires stretched across the intake air flow. if one of these wires breaks you'll encounter issues similar to what you're having. even if those wires are intact though the MAF could still be causing an issue. get a used one for $25 and swap it out is my suggestion. any MAF from an XT6 will work, Automatic AWD, FWD, Manual, transmission doesn't matter. i think even some 4 cylinder MAF's will work, but no worries an XT6 MAF should be easy to find. not much of chance of this being an issue if the check engine light doesn't come on, but the coolant temperature sensor (the one next to the thermostat housing and coolant housing - to the left of the alternator) causes all sorts of issues in over half of the dozen XT6's i've owned. look at it and see if the plastic harness is in good shape. check the connections inside of it and on the sensor that screws into the block. any green corrossion or bad contacts there will cause issue. but they will usually show up at idle and start up, so this most likely is not it. at 106,000 miles this thing should be about half way through life, so i'd get it fixed. they run forever (like most soobs of this vintage). unless it's transmission related (doubt it) i can promise this is a sub-$50 fix with a 99 percent certainty. i've owned 10 or 15 of these things, though none were FWD.