idosubaru

it's a 10mm either 1.00 or 1.25 pitch thread. i have not been able to locate *exact* part number matches, but every auto store will have one that works perfect. best to just take a stud or nut in and match it up. or take some spare nuts you have (that's funny) lying around that fit the studs and take them in to match up. in other words try to thread some nuts on top of the existing nuts just to get the right size. then take those in to match up, they can size them in the store. someone probably knows though. it's a 10mm either 1.00 or 1.25 pitch thread.

i would not recommend getting a water pump from a jy. people do that? thepartsbin.com has them for less than 20 bucks for my car, i'd order a new one.

i'd hit it with PB blaster/liquid wrench for a couple days in a row then try it. you could try heat on the hub side if you have a torch? bearings are toast so who cares about that anyway.

post that question in the offroad forum and you might get more feedback!

for the voltage issue, clean you battery terminals (install new battery cable ends if needed). also clean/check all your grounds. run a heavy gauge wire straight from the alternator to the positive battery terminal. this has helped others with dim lights, flickering lights, low voltage, etc. i did it as well, but never had any issues before or after.

i use grease and/or oil all over the seal, then install. i've never heard of using sealant on the seal. is that to compensate for rough metal surfaces?

on an XT6 (similar - y pipes in the way) i use a wrench just fine without dropping anything. i've also found that some brands are shorter than others, the shorter O2 sensors can be easier to install, depending on clearance issues and what transsmission/differential you have. i seem to recall the manual XT6 having less room than the auto..maybe it's the other way around. couldn't get a bosch sensor in, it was too long and wouldn't seat straight to start threading. but another brand....came from Autozone is all i can remember (and maybe a blue box??) fit right in with no problems. i only drive auto's now so that's why the details are sketchy at best. last time i did my auto i wrenched it out with no problems.

i've got two for the XT6. one i had made and the other is on one of the XT6's i got for parts. fairly straight forward. a metal plate welded to a receiver, doesn't get much simpler than that. bolt it to the car and you're done.

definitely go with CCR.

his last post said 400 for set and 110 individually.....etc.....

i installed a brand new axle in my XT6 about 2 years ago and it lasted....hhhmmm...about a week. the joint blew into 193 pieces in the parking lot going about 15 miles per hour. i'm talking balls rolling around the parking lot and grease everywhere. so i installed a used one i had that's been in there since then.

power. i've had a number of XT6's with 200,000+ miles with all original components (except the brushes of course). never had to touch a rack or tie rob or anything, so they seem reliable enough. never had a belt driven subaru p/s pump though.

not trying to poke at his good points, they are both good options to consider, just be advised that typically i think those adds are applicable to a limited number of vehicles and the rest (probably most if not all soobs) will be priced a good bit higher, right around the same range he's already paying. gotta be careful buying parts, some places hate doing that. some places don't mind at all. i got a machine shop that doesn't want to mess with parts, i order everything and he does the rest. but for the most part places don't like and some won't even work with customer given parts. years ago i had a shop charge me the amount they would have made for supplying the part themselves when i supplied them with a part. they didn't want to do it, but i could get the part quicker if i ordered it so they let me do it but still tacked on the profit margin they would have made had they supplied the part. in other words i bought the part and they still added 15 dollars or whatever they would have made onto the bill. once (different place, but same state - GA) i saw a sign inidicating higher prices to install customer parts! i'd sell the shop on the fact that you want to supply the part so you get a high quality part over trying to save 10 dollars, they could get annoyed with that.

125 is typical and fair. definitely replace the axle and not the boot in my oppinion. i wouldn't stress out about it, your axle is not anywhere near failure if this just happened recently. unless you go 4 wheeling through sand. i go 50,000 miles routinely on broken boots and wait for a brake job or something else to get in there and do it. the clicking noise it makes doesn't bother me.

i'd reseal the oil pump. in my experience the gasket behind the pump has far more issues than the shaft seal. i have the original pump on my 220,000 mile XT6 motor that has been thoroughly used. i resealed it at 150,000 miles and never had tapping issues. i did a complete reseal, cleaned the HLA's, replaced all cam carrier oil supply orings and resealed the oil pump. i used all aftermarket parts for oil supply seals/gaskets. if you want to buy a new one, do it as that's a fine move as well.

be careful about coolant temp sensor...there can be multiple ones (or similar devices/similar named sensors) on the car. i have some electrical connection under my intake manifold as well (XT6), it's about the only part on the entire car that i don't have a clue what it's for. anyway, the coolant temp sensor on an XT6 is up front by the thermostat on top the motor. this is the one that gives the ECU code you're seeing. i think there's also one in the radiator for the cooling fans...which is sometimes referred to as a coolant temp sensor. just be careful which one you mess with, there's only one that you're looking for.

the mechanic likely bumped or rested a wheel on the latching mechanism. it is probably slightly bent or misaligned or needs minor adjustment. i threw something on top of mine and it took a bit to figure out what the freak it was doing. finally figured it out by crawling in the trunk with a flashlight and pulling the trunk down and watching what happened.

helicoil should work fine. other options: you could try the stock thread size and try running a tap through it to see if there's enough material to use...probably not but worth a shot. try using a longer than stock stud or bolt, you can probably reach untouched threads. i'd try a stainless steel bolt first - easiest solution. after that a helicoil would be fine. or you could try tapping the hole to the next largest size and use a larger stud or bolt for that one hole. may or may not require reaming out/drilling out the flange as well if you need more clearance for a larger bolt. best case scenario you tap it to the next largest size and use a bolt and you're done. worst case you'll have to work on the hole in the flange so it fits.

thanks rob. Xt6er's are tearing this topic up.....pretty good showing for one thread.

i doubt there's any cost benefit over making spacer instead of having an existing shaft lengthened for someone paying for custom work. that being the case, there's no point in creating and adding more parts or connections, just make the existing part long enough for the application. but if you can do it yourself then tear it up. whatever it takes to get the power to the ground and you're in business.

doubt it's your converter. typically *new* to you cars need lots of tune-up items that were neglected by the previous owner and that's not going to make a nearly 20 year old car run very well. do a complete tune up and i bet it runs much better. ignition is huge - spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil. air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve. make sure all hoses and air intake hoses are tight, no leaks. check the timing. do these things (not that hard or expensive) and i think you'll be surprised how much better it runs. if you don't want to do the tune up - check for spark and compression. change the oil frequently to be sure the valve train is clean and lubricated/functioning properly. if it's fuel injected you can have the injector sent off to RC engineering or other companies for 80-100 dollars to have cleaned. i just had 6 cleaned for my XT6. most people just dump a couple bottles of fuel injector cleaner in the tank instead since that's only 5 dollars. the timing belts could be installed incorrectly (plenty of examples of mis-installed soob timing belts).

a caliper rebuild every time? that sounds like BS to me, but what do i know, i'm not an EA81 owner. i've owned all XT models, so i don't know EA81's, but i've never heard of rebuilding a caliper every time. throw on some new brake pads and you're good to go. like mentioned earlier, if the piston needs to be turned in, then be sure to have the right tool and screw the piston back instead of using a C Clamp. the piston on XT6's on the front calipers for example ride on a threaded spindle and have to be turned in ordered to retract or they won't go in. a c-clamp won't work. you've already had these rebuilt, so just slap some new pads on there and be on your way.

if the caliper isn't currently leaking or sticking you should be able to slap new pads on there and go about your business without touching the calipers. i've had a couple soobs with 200,000+ miles (my current daily driver has 220,000) on the original calipers. i've rebuilt and am about to rebuild the ones on my daily driver. rebuild kit costs like less than 10 dollars and has the seals to rebuild both calipers. doesn't require any special tools and is easy enough to do, just did a set last week for one of my XT6's. turning the piston back in is the most annoying part, just be patient and keep turning. the new seal will make it a tight fit, but just keep turning it and keep at it. not much to it really, either use the e-brake lever (if off the car) or the brake pedal (caliper still on car) and keep working them until the piston comes all the way out. or you can blow compressed air through the brake line port. push the piston all the way out. remove the rubber dust seal and clip that holds it in place. clean out the caliper bore and the piston, install the new seal and rubber boot and you're done. there's only 3 parts to each caliper - piston seal and rubber boot (with clip to hold in place), that's it. very simple set up really and not hard to do at all, just takes time like anything else. the outer rubber you see is just a dust shield really, shouldn't be holding back fluid. if there is fluid behind the dust boot then the piston or seal has been compromised in some way.

pat, cool i did send a PM a long time ago trying to finally get back to you on ER27 radiator dimensions. took me awhile. glad you found one.

phil, just turn the mount like you said. drill holes/add yellow nuts and bolts as needed. shouldn't be too hard hard to figure out as you go, not much in the way really.