idosubaru

I think 2005+ you can't read the codes unless you have a $3,000+ scanner. older models you could ground a pin to flash the codes via the light on the dash using short and long blinks. the map lights fail frequently, maybe you can test it?

the overhead map lights are problematic with these sometimes - bad solder connection you can repair or get another map light. google it. the wiring harness under the drivers side seat. make sure nothing is pushing/pulling it improperly. can probably google that too. On older models you can ground a pin and get the SRS codes to flash - is that not possible with new models?

For long term reliability it needs a new Subaru OEM or AISIN timing kit. Technically the tensioners easily make 200,000 miles but most people just get a kit. But if you go with Subaru parts you can consider skipping that one, replace all the other pulleys and belt. It's an interference engine so if any of those break it bends valves, usually a majority of them. Rust is the resource eater - exhaust, brakes, and body work if inspections/aethetics matter.

Oh right - manual rack, so you don't even need to worry about leaking side seals which is the main thing that sends P/S racks to their death and are probably harder to address.

make sure the pickle fork isn't bottoming out and not actually "wedging". is it the right size and i didn't know they could bend over time - but make sure it's working as it should. 1. Use a HEAVY hammer or larger solid metal mallet with lots of weight behind it. 2. SWING HARD. light hammers and construction style hammering isn't the ticket here. This is more like "stand back, wear goggles, cover your ears, and scare the neighbors"

I'm accustomed to XT's have tow hooks at each front and rear corner, but I'm mostly familiar with 88+ models, maybe earlier ones don't? Although I think my 1987.5 XT Turbo has them too...

I have a 2003 Outback - if the ABS sensor comes off, you want it?

If my 03 Outback ABS sensor comes off do you want it? I don't know if they're the same side to side - which one do you need? those ABS sensors are rough, they break routinely. grab another used one. With the knuckle off - assuming this is a bad one - get a chisel (probably start on the small size) wedged just between where the lip of the ball joint seats against the knuckle and work your way around the circumference. If you can get a gap started - start angling the chisel slightly "down" away from the knuckle so each strike of your sledgehammer (haha) is imparting a force "out" of the knuckle. keep working at it and you can get them to come out that way. Pickle fork = the way to go on the control arm side Getting the ball joint out of the knuckle might be another issue - they can range everywhere between: easy impossible to remove with any tool. this is the rare extreme and yours won't be this bad - but i've seen OEM ball joint studs rip out of the joint leaving the ball....just the ball mind you, laughing at you...no threaded stud left in it, still rust welded inside the knuckle. then drill and chisel bit by bit to get all the remaining outer shell of the ball joint carcass separated from the rusty knuckle. get your chisel, drills or torch ready or let the machine shop do it

Yes - stop in and ask. You might get turned down due to prior history/accident/non OEM part, etc - but more than likely it should be covered. Many, if not most, people have never been to a dealer except for recalls, totally normal and not a big deal.

Follow CNYDaves instructions. Lots of small degree movements over time, first dozen times it might seem cemented in place but keep at it. If you’re getting a used knuckle see if you can get the sensor with it. Needs to be the same sensor of course.

Did you regrease it or also replace seals? Did you check out that legacy thread where a guy documented his rack rebuild with pictures? That looked interesting. Those of us with manual racks or XT6 racks have few options, no great options, if we want to keep stock racks.

As far as "machine shop work" and finding a shop in an unknown area - f anyone else ever comes across this thread - i call local subaru shops or dealers and ask who they use as a starting point as well.

What he said. Torque wrench isn’t necessary if you’ve done a bunch of Subaru work. Since you presumably staked it you’ll know if you left it too loose when you go to tighten it and it turns too easily. I have a heavy duty long 3/4” socket wrench and slide a 2 foot pipe over it and give it some hefty heaves, that’s my torque wrench. Front and rear. Never had a failed bearing. I wouldn’t do this on an SVX rear. But I’ve probably only tightened like 50 or maybe 100 Subaru axle nuts.

Piston swap = piston swap. remove pistons and put different pistons in - that’s it. No lower end block work. And new headgaskets of course. good deals don’t sit around for long and GD isn’t going to waste time either. You have a questionable EJ25D. Id decide/jump quick on a known good $3,000 engine with updated pistons and someone who knows how to do it right. I know it sounds obvious but here’s what I’ve seen 100 times - when I want a deal I have cash available at all times and pull the trigger quick. I see people all the time encounter a good deal - ask questions, wait for replies, ask me about it, try to find a better deal, go look at it first then waste time trying to go get money or transportiom later, want pictures and mileage and history and then bam - they end up missing it and buying something worse for more money.

The 96 exemption is for 96 ECUs only. Its ECU specific and has nothing to do with the car or engine. It’s worth verifying if you’ve done EVU swapping. I would not assume it’s the same ECU without putting eyeballs on the one in the car given how interchangeable EJ ECUs are.

I prefer hand tools for rusty ball joint pinch bolts and exhaust. You probably already have the following but - 6 point, non-cheap (can be sloppy fitting) socket. Rub some grinding compound into the socket to help give it some bite and maybe take up small Slack between the socket and bolt head if it’s loose or rusty. You know how “12 mm bolts” in the rust belt are really like 11.5mm bolts? Eyeroll! They frequently shear no matter what. Propane is better than nothing but for the worst bolt on the vehicle (ball joint), not hot enough for higher temps and ideal gradient.

Why did you replace the oil switch a few months ago? Could the oil you're seeing just be residual from a prior leak from that? The PVC lines can be oily - how much and if it can contribute to what you're describing I'm not sure.

Check the oil pressure switch for a leak - that's on top of the engine? Diagnose: 1. clean it 2. watch where leaks emanate from. You're looking at decades of previous spills, leaks, work, grime, dirt, spills...guessing isn't generally advisable here. =valve covers never leak "up" on top of the engine.

Nah - you know what you're doing, it's just a grease and boots. I'm sure there's limits, I'm just saying it's not as cut and dry as people and mechanics typically say. A way I have "tested" them is to stuff them full of grease by hand while they're on the car, before I do anything to them - if they then get better, there's a good chance they'll be fine after a thorough clean and rebooting.

You're right at the tail end of a great time to buy - you should be able to wheel and deal, i'd do it sooner rather than later. I got a 97 OBS years ago for my wifes car specifically because of how great of a platform they are. Easy to maintain and they run forever. Rust would be a huge determining factor for me - it's such a time, energy, problem, and resource sucker over time. Yes Interference - give it a complete timing belt kit when you buy it. Even if the belt has been replaced they won't replace the pulleys and they are the frequent failure points, not the belt. So a belt replacement is quite literally worthless statistically speaking. While doing the belt it's wise to also replace the crank seal, cam seals, cam cap orings, and reseal the oil pump. That looks like a long list but it's just a few $3 parts and not much extra time. The timing belt has to come off to replace any of those so it's wise to do them all at the same time. Those older seals will be prone to leak by this age/mileage anyway.

if that's all you are doing then yeah do whatever you want. the 5 lug doesn't change the suspension *at all* really. you're just taking out the struts and springs and replacing them with other struts and springs. it's still got the same suspension just different struts and springs, which aren't a huge deal. it's not like it's converting the *type* or *style* of suspension significantly if that's what you're asking. you can build what you got with enough time and effort. as he said it doesn't do much suspension wise, you can get struts and springs as needed.

availability - axles and struts and brake parts and upgrade options. it gets old trying to source old, unavailable, CV boots, axles, brakes, struts, and springs and lift parts... if you're running a reliable daily driver or wheeler breaking parts - it's just annoying looking for parts. much simpler to just go get, order, and find maintenance parts that are everywhere. XT6 and some early EJ wheels are 14" so you can 5 lug 14" rims just fine if you don't get huge brakes.

Reboot your existing axle. I've rebooted multiple loud, vibrating inner joints with broken boots and they quieted right up with 100% success rate so far. Worth a shot over craptastic aftermarket axles anyway. I've seen multiple aftermarket axles blow to pieces shortly after install, they're very inconsistent.

the car doesn't need a head or headgaskets - so that means the engine doesn't have to come out - which means you don't "need" to replace the clutch if that was only preventative due to the perceived head removal/job that you thought you needed, but don't. so if the car is reasonable enough that you just need the cam carrier, timing belts, and struts - that's all nominal maintenance stuff really that any used car will need so it could be worth fixing. if you need much more than that then an EJ swap or selling it and getting into an early legacy which is super reliable and easy to work on/get parts for looks financially attractive over the long haul. alternately - pull the valve cover and slather The Right Stuff on there really good and bolt it together. that should get you by for a year or two and you can save and plan your next attack and set yourself up for a good 5+ year plan that saves you money and keeps your reliable. good decisions now, pay off later.