idosubaru

haha, that's about how those go, you've got a better memory than me. maybe 1 of mine met the "keep at least one" criteria during a clean out scrap phase but i have no idea.

welcome. your car is in good hands here, it's about the most technically accurate and competent forum around. at least in density and with low numbers of anecdotal references. other forums have great members (many of which are here too LOL) but are diluted by arguments, anecdotal references, inexperienced new car owners, and opinions that sifting through that to get to the best current practices is hard. much easier to do here.

What he said. They very rarely fail so demand is so low they should be cheap if you can find one. I think yards just price them high in the hopes that someone local needs one ASAP and otherwise 99% of them get scrapped. When I was parting out cars I never sold one..or maybe one I've forgotten about. someone on here probably has one - post in the parts wanted forum or look at www.car-part.com The TCU's rarely fail but that is a cheap and easy diagnosis.

Oh right, or that. If you don't live in an emissions testing area then do this and never think about it again.

I have a couple OEM converters from 90's legacy's but the flanges are rusted off, they'd need flanges welded to them or welded/clamped in place if you want me to ship you one. those 95's will run forever if you don't overheat or run them low on oil.

Then it should work for you. Sometimes the interior trim differs, you just swap the interior trim panels and that should be all you need to do. I’m general but unlikely to be the case for you - the Exterior can have slight differences between cladding and pin stripping. In rare cases the color can change - “red” might be a “canyon red” in early years of a given generation while later models of that same generation use “mica red”. That’s just an illustration and usually it’s not the case, just something to look out for. 00-04 Outbacks have this issue where 00-01 “red” and 02-04 “red” are different colors even though they’re interchangeable and both “red”.

i've seen this before as well. call the suppliers an maybe they'll create/have the kit you need. i'd just buy it and sell the other water pump on ebay or something.

14mm....maybe 12mm but pretty sure they're all 14.

i've never had a problem with basic tools - it's annoying you can need some can-do attitude to go at a nut that's hard to see, but it's there and accessible with some effort and snaking around throttle cables and hoses or whatever. are you sure it's even the starter? did you check if it's getting 12 volts and signal wire? if it is the "starter" replace the contacts for a few dollars and keep your original high quality starter over the aftermarket stuff. very easy to do and the most common wear item on a subaru starter.

Wanting to trade the car in after zero diagnosis is more ridiculous. Diagnose first. 1. was the old battery ever tested properly? 2. has the new battery been tested properly? 3. Are there any aftermarket parts installed on the vehicle - lights, audio/visual, remote start, trailer..? Any custom wiring at all is always suspect and common cause for issues. 4. properly test the parasitic draw 5. test the alternator output the ghetto way to do this is to simply disconnect the battery every night. if the battery is then never dead, then you know it's not the battery. Three times in the past three months when trying to start my 2016 Legacy with 14000 miles, the battery appears to be absolutely dead. Selling dealer can find nothing wrong and in desperation finally changed the battery on the second visit but, lo and behold, one month later, same problem! I have never heard of anything so ridiculous. Three times in the past three months when trying to start my 2016 Legacy with 14000 miles, the battery appears to be absolutely dead. Selling dealer can find nothing wrong and in desperation finally changed the battery on the second visit but, lo and behold, one month later, same problem! I have never heard of anything so ridiculous. Three times in the past three months when trying to start my 2016 Legacy with 14000 miles, the battery appears to be absolutely dead. Selling dealer can find nothing wrong and in desperation finally changed the battery on the second visit but, lo and behold, one month later, same problem! I have never heard of anything so ridiculous.

Crank pulleys vary. Often slide right off. Some will be very tight and you have to "wiggle" them about 263 times before they come off. The first 100 push/pulls makes you want to quit because it's not working, but eventually they come.

Mechanically speaking - how much weight to you intend to tow? I presume you have no idea? Get an actual cost estimate going, I'm all about DIY but it's easy to be penny wise and dollar dumb, i've done it 100 times: Calculate Hitch, wiring harness, trailer rental, worse gas mileage. I'm just making up numbers here but for instance: $150 hitch and wiring harness, (install costs?), $400 trailer rental, $50 gas, $100 additional hotel/meals for an extra day travel = $700. Additional days, hotels, meals traveling if it takes you longer because you're averaging 60 mph instead of 80. I get 12-14 mpg when traveling long distance/highway miles 6% highway grades with a huge boat that if it's not overweight (probably is) certainly tows like it since it sits above the car and pulls like a parachute. Rental places can be conservative with what they'll rent - ask them first what size trailer they'll rent and requirements. In addition to the hitch you'll need trailer wiring but that's pretty simple now - but an additional cost if you're on a tight budget. Car will be fine. (weight question notwithstanding obviously). Drive in cool weather and watch RPM's and engine temps up steep mountain passes if you're really heavy. Subaru's consistent issue towing across multiple generations and models and engines and transmissions is cooling capacity. When taxed while towing the first symptom and issue is overheating. The 2015 i think doesn't even have a temperature guess though does it? Might want to get a free phone app and bluetooth OBD port device or something that allows you to monitor the engine temps. Pretty sure you can get a cheap blue tooth and free app to do that.

Oh my this is so easy - at most they’ll say “pack up or finish up next time I come around”. I wouldn’t even think about it. when I was in college I’d do it on campus where I wasn’t supposed to, late at night, drive to a low traffic apartment complex back lot, ask friends for a place off campus, a covered lighted gas station late at night or even closed, and do small jobs. I parked a parts car in a random apartment complex for months while I parted it out. I replaced a clutch cable on campus and the police held a flashlight for me while I did the pedal routing! I’ve left deer in my trunk til 2am, drug them in the kitchen of a dorm when everyone’s asleep, butchered it and chucked the left overs in the dumpster on the other side of campus and cleaned up the kitchen before anyone woke up. all of this was in downtown Atlanta mind you, one block from the largest skyscraper in Atlanta. Not the most convenient place to find space or away from humans. As GD said - there’s a way. resolve and drive were probably as important than a degree. Go practice that resolve and put it in your resume.

Seems there should be an easy test if this is it. Someone more in the know can tell...? On some subarus you can simply remove the front few exhaust nuts and the header will come off the engine enough to drive as a test but is still supported part way back by a bracket close to the trans. Or hang it with wire/coat hangers for a short test drive. Shouldn’t take long and require no more than 14mm socket for the exhaust nuts. And every time I’ve done that there’s zero change in symptoms. I doubt it’s the exhaust. Ive never seen a Subaru converter “clogged” but I’ve seen people try to diagnose/fix those symptoms by addressing the converter without effect. Clearly it happens but Id also diagnose more than that. Which it looks like maybe you have but I’m not able to check those other threads now.

bunch on EA81's and I don't see how SPFI impacts the cams, delta makes cams for SPFI EA82 and MPFI EA82, ER27, EJ....sounds pretty basic. I'd guess some of these guys have SPFI but I didn't investigate: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/100964-delta-cam-roll-call/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123222-ea81-cam/

They’re really nice rides when in good condition. Age and lack of parts and famiiiarity are current hurdles. Change trans fluid and add an ATF cooler they blow transmissions all the time. It would be no surprise if it’s been replaced before.

Probably a gasket. Can you post a picture? If it’s running properly and the unit plugs in then it’s fine. The thing either vacuum leaks or doesn’t. You’re positive it’s the IAC and not the EHR valve which has a distinctive metal plate as well right?

Common issue. Replace relay of and unit. Pull relay or fuse or disconnect t pump for temp fix. Search for more details.

might be worth trying to rotate the front to back and back to front and see what happens? or balance them and make sure it's not just from sitting? maybe it's my imagination or i'm forgetting swapping tires but i feel like i've taken a resurrected car that vibrated a lot the first few days after sitting a long time and it smooths out over time...probably a fairy tale. probably a good idea to pay close attention to storing and protecting them properly no matter what you decide, but i'm glad i started leaning towards better and new snow tires a few years ago, the three brands Numbchux listed above are my current list as well.

true - I shouldn't have added "that’s not it ", i should have said "just blindly regurgitating some ideas". i'm dismissive of "regurgitating" *some* failure modes over a more complete list of possibilities and "blindly" not explaining or giving data to chew on when someone is doing due diligence. Maybe they said, "Ah man, we've seen this 100 times, every backyard guy slapping these on with no testing has this happen, seriously replace the feed line, it happens 50 percent of the time"....but i'm guessing they didn't and just fired back some guesses. i could be wrong, maybe Gloyale didn't tell us the whole story. granted some things are hard to quantify. and as well, i do get it - it's tough trusting someone else's diagnosis and two consecutive failures is a serious red flag that no one should ignore. it seems they would give more than guesses, and maybe they did...

3 years isn't "new" for any tire and even more questionable with snows depending on storage and how much they were run in higher temps. oddball warm spell in the 70's twice this week (not normal here) and i'm thinking "what is this doing to my snows?"

what exactly are you worried about? it's an EA82, it doesn't care what legal speed you run it at. they're great engines and run all day long. you'll be more of a problem than the engine. have you maintained it at all - oil, leaks, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing pulleys, timing tensioners, timing belt, drive belts, fluids, battery and terminals? that will be more indicative of it's performance than the engine itself. i had a 120 mile commute for years with my XT6 (same pistons/rings/valves/HLAs as EA82) with zero issues or concerns. no big deal.

splitting hairs, clearly he’s suggesting the pads are different. Maybe materials discussion would clarify that but the adjective used isn’t assumed to be technically definitive. As to VAG, there are zero similarities.

Wow. crazy series of events, Great troubleshooting. frustrating when there’s a cause and people are just blindly regurgitating some idea that’s not it. Are you nervous with the third attempt?!

Agree look up reviews, those are common tires. If they’re all the same id guess storage or exposure to something may have been an issue. I may be off on this but i think those are low end or average at most snow tires and not 5 year superb quality snow treads. I don’t think it’s normal but not shocked either.