idosubaru

You checked codes? Timing that Scott suggested - you can take a look at the distributor body where the two screws attach and see if you can see an old “outline” showing where it used to be so to speak. Like when you move a piece of furniture and it leaves marks from even just cleanliness where it used to be. If timing got bumped it may show in that way. Check the throttle cable where it wraps around the throttle body cam thing. If that was off track or compromised in some way maybe that could effect take off and shifting. Hope you get it figured out, has to be something simple. It’s nearly certainly related to all the engine work.

The key isn't even needed at all, the crank bolt will never come loose if you crank it down tight. i've done it gobs of times, no big deal. Clean it all up and put it back together with or without the key and crank the crank bolt tight with a 2foot pipe over the socket handle (the crank and bolt are steel and won't strip) and it's not moving.

no - i was saying i'm uncertain and was hoping someone else would chime in. as long as you're installing spacers either way is fine assuming there's enough spacing for your end increase. i've done just strut swap lifts and lift kits, but never taller struts and lifts, so I'm unsure what happens then.

check that all the plug wires are properly seated - including in the coil and center disty wire. i would also check for vacuum leaks if engine has been pulled. maybe it's already been mentioned but: clean IAC check CTS connector i've seen quite a few do this. new seals (multiple times) and it still does it. swap pumps and it's gone. got a few stories of people resisting changing the pump, multiple reseals and attention to detail...then they replace the pump and magically TOD goes away.

And what did they say?

So LT you’ve seen riding the brakes help with vibrations? That’s nifty and I’ll try it next time I see it though mine don’t seem to ever do it any more. In general brakes are same but electronic parking brake equipped vehicles have some differences so take note of those if you have that. Otherwise most people would just install new pads and rotors and be done with it. If you do that I’d still check the things I mentioned.

Yes you can swap the lift blocks. Or just get a complete kit with lift and spacers, go for 4” ? It’s standard to go 2” I’m unsure what happens when you start combining 2” with an additional lift caused by swapping to “taller” struts. A friend put taller struts on his legacy sedan and lifted it a good deal and he was eating CV boots because of it but otherwise had no issues, never had to replace axles just boots. With struts and 2” lift I would guess there would be issues.

rear rotors last the life of the vehicle, they are pointless to replace. Unless that car was in some weird incident, it’s not the rear rotors. if you can identify which front is bad, you can have it turned or just replace one rotor. There’s good reasons for a shop/mechanic working with largely unfamiliar customers to do it, but for DIY there’s no need to confine yourself to one-size-fits-all approaches. Though I get that you’re unlikely to do that... So - why are rotors bad at 40k? I’d check points that frequently compromise pads and rotors: Make sure all pad clips are straight, no bends or waves, no build up or corrosion (seems doubtful so new). I usually replace these clips at least once by 150k because they’re cheap and actually prevent issues due to points I mentioned and have seen happen. Check slide pin bushing for proper operation. If it’s swollen or tight replace it, I throw them away as they’re pointless and cause failures. Clean and grease slide pins with SilGjyde or other high quality lube, generic brake grease sucks here and is actually detrimental to the pin bushings. Since I’ve been doing these three things consistently I’ve never had to replace a rotor. Before that I was replacing one every year or two.

good job. i wasn't making it up that i've got a 100% success rate by replacing the pump. i would keep your old pump just in case, it would also be interesting to mic a pump and figure out exactly where the issue is occurring.

a GT doesn't have any body spacers so once it starts getting lifted somewhere over 2-3" axle and alignment issues will commence without spacers and dropping blocks.

Look at the heads and it's abundantly clear which ones go where. It's not the block holes that make the difference, it's the heads. Look at them and it's as clear as air. There are two different height holes in the heads. The longer bolts go in the taller holes and the shorter bolts go in the shorter holes. And yes it's the lower middle row so to speak.

Good car and this guy is the man, car was running good when I saw it on it's rusty death bed.

It's a rule of thumb. Swapping the manifold can be far more certain and easier than verifying any year, model, market changes/differences. If you can verify otherwise, then have at it. 99-04 have two different style crank/drivers side cam gears. they're identical and interchangeable except for the trigger marks. I'm assuming that he's suggesting that may still be the case with newer EJ's as well. that information could probably be determined with some quick searching.

I posted the order of operations: 1. Work through dealer 2. Contact SOA or regional Subaru Resources. There’s a significant chance of user error, previous poster never gave pictures or detailed info or followed up. Half the time these posts end up Like that.

not even a question or discussion. It doesn’t matter Rear hub failures only occur if you run bad bearings for extraneous lengths of time. Used is a perfectly fine option.

Lucky. Good job. I (and many others) test them and see the carnage as do most on here, and of course some sneak through rarely. Here’s why you “got lucky” twice. At this point people are dumping them for age and low value. Breakdown = people lose faith in an old vehicle and don’t want to put $500-$1,000 into *any* job. They don’t care if it’s bent valves or timing belt, either way it’s way more than they want to spend on a low value car they just lost faith in. And it’s the norm for people to exaggerate or favor the truth that supports their interests or favored outcome, I see that all the time too helping people with cars. I see people move on from older vehicles with minor issues, major, catastrophic, all the time, it’s a revolving door and you got two good ones. Once they’re done, they’re done. And that’s the norm.

The aftermarket kits come with a replacement bolt, that should not be trusted, I’ve seen those shear off before. You can tell by looking at it m, the head and shank won’t be the same form and color as OEM. Bent valves, usually a majority or bunch of intake valves. You can also get two used heads and swap them out. That would be cheaper than a valve job.

I’ve bought the $60-$100 advance auto parts radiators a bunch of times without issues. But sample size is small so that’s anecdotal as all responses will be unless a long time shop worker comments.

great, thanks, planning on helping him out and buying the struts for him.

Get an FSM, everything else will be found insufficient at some point. They're free all over the internet. Unless the axle flew apart and waylaid itself into the block/oil pan and cracked it open, it did not cause engine oil loss/failure. The axle also didn't cause torque converter failure. This is actually really easy, it takes less than two minutes to figure this out: 1. Determine how and where the axle failed (post pictures if you can). 2. Check all fluid levels and determine where the oil loss came from - if it puked out an entire 5 quarts of oil in an instant like described, chances are it would be easy to tell where it came from.

Friend has a 97 Impreza Sedan looking to get him new strut assemblies. What rear strut options are there to lift it a little? Are 95-99 Outback and Forester strut assemblies about the same in terms of how much they would lift it?

low fluid can cause that symptom as well - but there's still a lot of gray area in all of this so who knows. Warranties explicitly deny coverage for anything other than the part, that's widely known and common. But even still this: That - is well said. We can't explain it, but it's not likely the axle. Ideally you learn from this situation and set yourself up to be in a better place in the future by making better decisions than the ones that got you to this point. First start with getting a good diagnosis and information about what's going on so we can help....but i totally get that transmissions are hard to diagnosis if they're failing internally. There are some really talented folks on this forum that could offer some great advice but they need good information since they can see, hear, or touch the vehicle. But at least start by unplugging the TCU like I said earlier, and check the fluid level. Beyond the car - I would suggest getting around some people and a community that can help you as well. Friends, family, church, hobbies, or something along those lines - if you're surrounded by great people everything changes.

MPG depends on driving habits and environment. Idling (letting car warm, loading kids or gear) Mountains, heavy loads, heavy foot A high ground clearance, 4WD vehicle with roof bars is not going to be a gas mileage queen and Subaru has neve lead the pack in gas mileage. While newerw technology helps bump it up, they are still less forgiving with anything outside ideal conditions.

Yes the hub tamer, that’s what I had as well. Ideally with an impact gun. By hand is beastly. Someone else would know better but I use Subaru as might look at Beck Arnely for Subaru wheel bearings.

Get a used tire to match. Shops eBay craigslist etc. If it’s the original 15” tire size those should be easily found and are inexpensive. If you buy two new tires you can install one in the front and one on the opposite side rear as long as you don’t have a rear LSD which you shouldn’t. Theoretically this will put more strain on the gears inside the diffs but whether that’s benign or real world practical I don’t think anyone knows. I’ve seen shops around here install two new tires in that way. And then you’ll possibly have rotation issues and the smaller older tires will likely be the ones spinning and wearing faster. autos just run it FWD and you have multiple easy options, but you’re stuck with the lesser tans here.