idosubaru

Systems often disable with a check engine light, so the P0420 caused the VDC and cruise to disable. Once that code disappeared those systems resumed nominal ops. why the P0420 code was set might be the main question. That's weird.

***** The first thing we need to know is the current check engine light code. Have it read and post it here. Don't post the diagnosis or what someone says the code means - give us the exact code. P0420 is the catalyst inefficiency code that usually starts debacles like this. I'll assume that's the issue, but definitely post the code here. 1. the rattle - i'm uncertain about that. seems like the shop should fix it but "fix it" might mean a whole new muffler/system $$$$ if you annoy them and they're not wanting to diagnose/address. 2. for the Check Engine light - you only need one converter. the system doesn't check catalyst efficiency until the car is up to operating temps. second converter functions when warm. the first converter is a pre-converter and intended to mitigate emissions during the warm up period - when the O2 sensors are not even in use yet. so it depends how you look at it. A. the system was designed with two converters - a preconverter for warm up period, one for nominal ops. but both are not "needed" at all. the car was "designed" with perfect clear coat - it probably doesn't have that either. B. the computer/check engine light/emissions only require one converter to work properly - the rear one. on stock systems installing a $5 spacer between the rear O2 sensor and the exhaust often gets rid of the check engine light. easy, cheap, and it sometimes works. i dont' know what's going on here with all the noise, custom exhaust, etc - but for $5 and a few minutes it would take on a new exhaust (no rust), i'd install one of those immediately. this issue is so common i've got a pile of those extenders in my garage. a simple way to test if exhaust is causing issues or not is to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the engine and take a drive. if the issue goes away - it's the exhaust if the issues don't go away - it's not the exhaust. exhaust should not cause any issues at all unless it's clogged. vibration in drive at stop is usually due to aftermarket front CV shafts. replace the offending axle. always use Subaru axles (green inner cups). reboot and they always last the life of the vehicle. replacement is a waste and problematic. get a used one from www.car-part.com and reboot it with Subaru boots.

there's a lot of variability to your question - it's too convoluted to answer your question. you can use ebay and www.car-part.com to determine some interchangeability - though they generally interchange far more than listed. find out what years/models are listed for the same part. you can often google front suspension, rear suspension, brakes, engines, and sometimes transmissions and find some very specific threads about those interchanges. roughly speaking for a 1996 impreza: front struts (height will vary), axles, knuckles, control arms - 1995-2004 legacy, outback, impreza rear suspension - 1999 and earlier outback/legacy/impreza. 2000-??? impreza/forester. brakes - almost any subaru brakes interchange if you swap the caliper bracket and rotor too - but if they're bigger you need larger wheels to clear them. jamal has an excellent brake interchange thread on mulitple subaru forums. google it. transmissions and rear differentials interchange if you either match the final drive ratio of the current vehicle or swap both (matching trans and rear diff): manuals are 3.9 or 4.11 final drive - your impreza would be a 3.9 automatics are 4.11 or 4.44 final drive - impreza would be 4.11 it gets complicated because nearly every thing can interchange. Say you want "Part A" interchange info. certain year impreza's interchange with A different year legacy's interchange with A sometimes which engine or auto/manual changes if A interchanges and what years for each of those.... other year impreza's interchnge with A if you also interchange another part - we'll call it "B" A interchanges if you also swap part B. But - only certain year B's. so you need all those "A's" listed above - with another completely different list of years, models, engine, trans for part B. and then sometimes you might be able to interchange A - but it changes some things which may or may not be an issue (say you install taller front struts and then the car sits at a rake - you might be fine with that, or you might want to swap in rears to match or not do it at all). it's usually simpe if you just ask a question or three. but to write a complete interchange list like you're saying is nearly impossible. for the HG repair: pull heads resurface heads (there's a DIY thread here, easy and cheap) use Subaru (or high quality) headgaskets replace radiator. ideally you install a complete timing belt kit - pulleys and belt and a new water pump with Subaru OEM water pump gasket. those are great engines, as long as it was't overheated significantly it should run until rust kills it.

0303 is cylinder misfire and cause of poor running most likelY. I would think the 0420 has a chance of going away if you fix the misfire. If you've been driving along time with it running poorly the converter May be compromised. Install new NGK plugs and NGK or subaru wires O2 sensor - install an O2 sensor extender, they're like $5 on eBay. 0420 is one big debacle of a code. It's benign and causes no drivability issues, the ECU doesn't even look at it. You can disconnect the rear sensor entirely and it changes nothing, car will run just as normal as before.

Check codes. Sounds and seems like the wiring isn't happy. How positive are you had wiring is up to snuff?

Not familiar with fast2? Describe? Or I'll google later. Don't have computer now to test opposed forces today.

I'm being picky, don't want that style. The GA200 (last 5 digits) came with them when new. I've got a few new OEM blanks i got when not many were left. I'll try some old ones that could be put to use as extras or for friends.

Copy. I was thinking a 20% success rate or something like that. Best to cut from the key code or the key to be matched or probably doesn't matter given the convoluted task?

The original XT6 keys are unique and have a built in light. Some people like them but they're obviously old and unavailable last I checked. I have a few used ones so why not gamble and have them cut to a different car and see what happens. I've got nothing to loose. Multiple times I've had warn keys work in two different XT6's. And sometimes I've had a key work in just the ignition or just the doors or start the car and could be pulled out while driving. seems like the lock cylinders are somewhat forgiving. Anyone ever try it?

that's what prompted me to post here. there's no newer stuff and i've felt before like it seems like it won't last.

Copy that makes sense. I'll just ignore it

You guys made me think to try my phone. On the same wifi - It works on my phone but not laptop. I'll try it later maybe just a glitch somewhere in the network.

great thanks! still not coming up though. nippers link above is not working it just gives me "site unavailable" page. does that link work for anyone else? computer/intenret all working fine. weird.

i just went to look up part numbers and noticed it's gone? any news on that?

Connector is up inside the body side of the vehicle. Pull the rubber grommet/conduit/cover that you see right now. It just pops out of the hatch and body side of the car (basically all Subaru doors and hatches are like this). Then you'll see the wiring. pull it until you get to the connector. You can swap doors, trunks, and hatches by yourself but it's super awkward, probably a terrible idea (drop, dent, scratch, etc). Having a helper makes it a cinch just because it's awkward, not because it's hard. Holding a door or hatch while trying to turn bolts is pretty fun (not), i just did one this week. don't recommend it unless it's a last resort.

i'd get a Subaru FSM for that. usually the easiest repair is to just swap an entire rear hatch. it's like a few bolts and unclip the wiring harness, can be done super fast and easy. i can appreciate wanting to use what you have on hand - i'd get an FSM online and check the SUbaru procedure there. i got my 2002 outback FSM free on line, a google search will eventually land you on a place that isn't click bait. LOL

can't see it ourselves but sounds like you're headed in the right direction to noitce and question it - i wouldn't even consider using it. they're like $30 or something, why even think about it. not that it matters, but the sprocket is hands down the most common one to fail too.

i don't know anything about crosstek space in the back, but a genearl comment since you brought it up - might want to have plenty of room to grow into. pack and plays, strollers, bags, gear, bikes, etc. if you travel, go places, parents live out of state, will have another kid in 2-3 years, enjoy hobbies then get as much space as you can. it's nice to have room for strollers, pack and plays, kids gear, or sit one or two people in the back to go with you places. the smaller Subarus can be really tight to fit two people in the back with a car seat or one person in the back if you have two car seats. this includes the products you buy: small car seats are much more convenient than bigger ones (they can still have top safety ratings). our first car seat we didn't pay attention and it was a monster and cumbersome compared to later seats we bought.

+1 on the MAF - i've seen those not cause a check engine light even though they're problematic (stalling, no start, poor running) swap in another idle control valve or clean your existing one check fuel pressure why was the cam sensor unplugged? if you plug the cam shaft position sensor in and drive it a week - you get no check engine light?

ah - if you're just doing it twice - to get the car there and back. that's not a big deal. if you were making 500 mile road trips every month - then it sounds like a bad idea. correct - H6's all have automatics, 1988-1991 XT6's are the only stock Subaru 6 cylinders with manual transmissions (my daily driver is one of those) there's no appreciable difference between 00-04 and 05-09 outbacks in terms of towing. the H6's can overheat towing heavy loads in summer and steep grades. seen multiple H6's do it. the extra power is nice - but the biggest weakness remains - undersized and cooling. but you sound like you got that noted to pay attention and address if needed. if it's flat and you're not towing in 95+ temps you'll likely not have any issues anyway.

MR radon did it and documented it at subaruxtz.com

Usually easier to buy what you want but it can be done. MT to MT? AT to AT? MT to AT? AT to MT? Manual or automatic car? Manual of automatic conversion transmission? Need: Transmission Driveshaft Shifter mechanisms Entire rear suspension - crossmember, diff, axles, knuckle assemblies - and probably gas tank for 4WD clearance? Rear struts are different but interchangeable - they have different mounting positions so might give the car a rake if you don't swap in 4WD strut assemblies. If AT to MT or MT you'll need pedal assembly If MT to AT you'll need a radiator or dedicated cooler for the fluids with Not necessary but Ideally you also get or may want: Center console for interior aesthetics Instrument cluster cruise control is auto/manual specific, if it's equipped, swap the controller.

you can post it on Subaruxt.com

Ohio is a much different market. i go to Bushwick's area once every month or two. up until a few years ago i would go an entire weekend without seeing a Subaru there. that can't happen even with a short commute here. In a dinky town with only 30,000 people we have a Subaru dealer (another 30 minutes away), Subaru only used car lots, Subaru only junk yards (though they are challenging to deal with), and Subaru only mechanics/shops. Akron is 200,000 people and Canton 70,000 people - that's an order of magnitude bigger than where I live and if anything like that exists - it's rare. My relatives have bought two Subarus recently and their 20+ year mechanic in Canton said he wouldn't work on them because he doesn't know them. A mechanic here would get funny looks with a response like that here. Subaru's can be really cheap there on craigslist but rust issues beware. i see gaping hole rear fender cars and trucks frequently in ohio, that doesn't pass PA and WV state inspections, that changes the market too. you can get $3k and $4k for later 90's Subaru's here - depends on time of year, condition, and mileage. we have yearly inspections so they need to have limited rust and pass those inspections for the next few years to command a good price. i sold a 99 a year or two ago for $4k+. i can't imagine that happening in Ohio.

check fluid level first thing - where is it? read the check engine light and post the code. read owners manual and see what it sas about the AT light. check it again and count - most likely it is blinking 16 times if it's doing it at start up. check the AT pan and make sure it's not dented? most common AT issue is duty c solenoid.