idosubaru

timing belt is good? usually a last resort but fuel pump is sounding awfully suspicious. you're at home depot - go borrow a screw driver for the fuel lines? can you hear the pump priming when you turn the key? i've never tried to listen on newer ones, on older ones you could here them.

oh, hey JCE, i thought the pre-95's had EGR but it's been awhile since i've seen one.

check for spark at all 4 cylinders....or at least one of them. won't stay running - so it runs for a few seconds?

just bolt the 95 intake manifold onto the 93 and you're essentially done. both have EGR so you made this really easy on yourself, woot woot!

is it worth investigating first to make sure what you need to replace? generally the headgaskets might be fine, but of course with it out and apart maybe you want to do them anyway but you could save a lot of time, work and parts to skip that step too. i can almost guarantee most or all of your leaks are from the front seals (cam/crank/oil pump) or valve cover. aftermarket parts: Fel Pro Permatorque headgaskets for sure (add 5-10 pounds to the final torque value). Get the ebay timing belt kits (theimportexperts are often used by folks on here). They come with the belts and all new pulleys and they're really cheap like $60 for everything. Use Subaru parts for the intake manifold gaskets (they carry with them a coolant passage and are prone to leak) and seals (cam seal, cam oring, crank seal, oil pump seal/oring/gasket). Get the cam carrier orings from Subaru as well, few other places carry them (you'll need 2 total). The subaru exhaust manifold gaskets are a lot better, but they're so easy to replace it's not a big deal either. I'm indifferent with valve cover gaskets but get the valve cover kits that have the cover bolt washers too.

yes - misfires get described as just about anything, bad trans being one of them.

maybe my memory is bad too, i'm more of a figure it out as I go kind of person than worry about all the details before i jump in. but i didn't see any more fixed points than those three on the one i looked at.

they're probably exagerarating, they are trained to sell services and your brakes probably are close to needing changed. so they aren't lying and are providing you a service by checking and replacing. the chances that you have "zero" meaning they're dangerously low are probably extremely small. my guess is they are fine for now and you should start thinking about having them done soon. brakes are really simple and there's no reason to have them done at a dealer, who tends to be high on price. although i wouldnt' go cheap just to go cheap, i'd want a trusted and known mechanic/person to do it.

if oil and coolant are mixing i wouldn't use the block. these engines don't typically mix oil and coolant, so i'd consider it hosed. your affinity for additives would persuade me to move on to another engine too. but if you can do the labor, it's not like headgaskets are all that expensive. there are dealers that do not resurface the heads, so while i don't recommend it there's plenty out there that haven't been done. be sure to only use subaru headgaskets on this engine.

i just removed one and while i can't recall details it was easy. tried looking it up and somehow it's not in the Body Section of the FSM? goofy. it said "See 6-2" but i couldnt' find that on my digital version. *** edit i was just in the garage and have one in there - just three bolts - two to the right and one on top (as you're facing it). there's one funny looking clip under the left orange-ish skinny part of the light - just under that. dont' remember doing anything there but there is a small white clip for something.

i was kidding since no one would actually wait for that as a rule. but it does happen. on some the tone rings are attached to the hub (picture attached) - play in the hub *requires* the tone ring to have play and contact something and crack the tone ring. if it doesn't - then there's not much play. around 2000 (maybe your 99?) it changes and the tone ring is installed on the axle, not the hub. mind you i'm talking *really* bad and it's an FYI, not a recommendation to wait that long.

flexplates have to be swapped when doing an EJ22/EJ25 swap, flywheel...escaping me at the moment.

yes. or more correctly: yes and no...or sort of no. all EJ's and EG33 are the same prior to 1998. the bellhousing bolt patterned changed in 98 (or 99, pretty sure it's 98 though), but even still you can bolt an old engine up to the new style bellhousing just fine, just different number of bolts (4 and 8). for swapping engines and trans it doesn't matter that it changed.

glad you said that Shawn. this is a good thing to check into. I searched a little to see trends (or not) on these tensioners. there were more newer style tensioner failures. older ones have higher age and mileages, which suggests the issue could be worse than the feedback indicates. but no doubt a large amount of failures are due to trying to reuse. the newer style tensioners that i've seen fail never caused the belt to jump teeth. maybe they're less prone to that? who knows, too many variables to keep track of but for me maybe it can be said that the old style is a better option to reuse on my non-interference daily driver anyway. i'm more forgiving of the new style after some sifting. the real issue for me is that i'm around too many college students....15 all you can eat chinese buffets or a tensioner? while i was looking for trends this was funny (in an understandable kind of way), looks like your subaru experience has showed you something

not a suggestion to live by but if you have ABS, the light will come on once it's bad enough to induce play where it interrupts the ABS functioning. also once there's play the car won't track straight, it'll vere left/right, you're perilously on the edge then. it needs to be done as soon as possible but it's not going to explode next week unless it's really bad right now. you've got time to make a good decision and line things up conveniently.

another option is to have two contains and two long pieces of ATF hose...i'm sure you probably know that though? fill one bucket with clean fluid, run the proper ATF line to it - then leave the other empty for the pressure side. crank car over and shut it off when clean fluid comes out. it's not easy to set up, but not hard either. once you got the hose length and/or an adapter set up to plug into the existing lines it's really simple though and repeatable.

simple fixes are great, good. kona, awesome! you retired, visiting, living, wintering there? snorkeling at CC's monument is one of my favorites and hiking the volcano is mind blowing to walk up to flowing lava and poke a stick in it. Mahala!

ha ha chux nice hit, so you use zip ties only to hold the pump in place? i've always just zip tied the stock bracket in place with the fuel pump mounted to it but i like your simplicity even better. i might see if i can use some self tapping screws to set the pump bracket back in place and if not i'll just zip tie it again maybe without a bracket this time.

fuel pump bolts often shear off in the rust belt. i've had quite a few vehicles where 100% of them sheared off. got one now. what are your creative methods for reinstalling another fuel pump? i'm trying to avoid zip ties this time, though i've done it before and it's certainly the easiet solution. drilling them all out sounds annoying too.

Yes Larry you're golden, 15" aluminum wheels should clear a 2000 OBW. 02+ OBW went to larger stuff so that's why the previous poster had issues. check out jamal's brake write up in the USRM for brake size and clearance comments, it's a fantastic resource for questions just like this.

timing belt is really easy on subaru's, nothing to it. every other vehicle is transverse mounted annoyance to change a timing belt. get the ebay kits so you can replace all the pulleys as well, they won't be in good shape by this age and the ebay kits are awesome cheap. the under powered is because it's an EJ18 and automatic probably. if it's an auto then have the transmission fluid changed. that car isn't very desirable and prices are rather low so i wouldn't call that a killer deal, but if it really is well maintained and in good shape it would certainly be an inexpensively reliable vehicle. it should be good for an easy 100,000 more miles rather cheaply. of course you konw the rust won't get any better, but in maryland it's just a once and done inspection anyway.

okay we definitely need a story with that photo, is that a car sunken through ice? that's awesome. old gen stuff is reliable....you just have age against you, so brakes, alternators, axle boots, etc are going to need help here and again.

yeah replace the seals. sounds like you're already on it and found some info. follow the directions posted here. do one at a time and count the number of turns and reinstall the retainers exactly the same number of turns and the same spot - this retains the clearance. set up properly, give yourself time, work slow and you should be good. i'd get that lucas out of there and get some diff fluid in a.s.a.p. just my personal preference.

this is the first time i've heard of the anti-foulers not working, i'd be doing what you're doing and checking some things out first. that's a good idea, having subaru run their diagnostic. they've come up with a rather sophisticated process i believe for tracking it down.

did you swap the intake manifold over too? use the original intake manifold (along with all the wiring/sensors) that came with the car, then you have no issues. the 94 intake will bolt right onto the 97 EJ22....then you've got the original wiring. the ECU only needs whatever it used to have to run. our vehicles are different here so it's hard to be more specific.