idosubaru

They all have a propensity for issues. The only nearly 100% repeatable trustworthy solution is to reboot an OEM axle.

Nah, that’s beyond me. Giles is a member here currently doing extensive restoration work on a rusty XT. It’s incredible at the moment. He’s got the front done or nearly done. Cut out, strip, fab, weld, prep, etc. welding and boxing in shouldn’t be a problem if done right. But Rust repair “done right” isn’t something I should be guiding!

axle. "new" are frequently garbage. you can try swapping axles side-to-side as a test and see if the noise changes or "moves" with the axle. brake dust shield rubbing or caught debris can cause clicking as well. check disk/rotor/pad interfaces for debris, hanging, etc.

The internal rust is the issue, not what you can see. 1-3 year fix = cover it up. Permanent fix = cut it out and replace the metal. There's unfortunately no way to get a permanent fix otherwise. You could possibly increase that 1-3 time line by a year or a couple with an enormous amount of effort applying POR-15 into the inner reaches of the cavities.

Springs are usually like $30-$40. I guess it’s because yours is a 1990 but later legacy are cheaper. Search for the part number and check a few places. You can order online too but if it’s just springs you’ll loose the savings on shipping m. Did you find a part number ?

1. The only ones I’ve seen do it have sat for extended periods of time...like presumably yours did too. I’ve never had it happen on a car that was taken apart and reassembled shortly after. 2. Reboot the axle. If it’s a Subaru axle keep it and reboot it. They last forever and never fail. Clean regrease and reboot. I’ve rebooted nasty greaseless or filthy noisy vibrating OEm axles and they’re fine after regressing. Aftermarket axles suck and fail all the time. They’re fine for ghetto repairs and people limping an EA82 around for craigslist or limited use, or wanting easy replacements for wheeling, but I would never have one on a daily driver or if I wanted reliability. I have a long list of brand new axle failures, multiples blowing apart while driving in less than 100 miles. 3. axles are interchangeable side to side. Are you sure the axle was too short? Did you meausure or compare them both side by side on the ground laying next to each other extended and compressed? If it’s the right axle then first guess it was not extended on the inner joint or the suspension geometry was off for install. I’ve seen the wrong part from an auto store and I’ve seen the wrong part in the wrong box but it’s pretty rare.

awesome ! That’s why we do this! ive seen freshly assembled EA/ER engine rocker arms slip off immediately. I should have said that explicitly. That’s why I asked first, and mentioned it a number of times, about where the play was precisely. the valves on these can’t really be hung open, except maybe a minor amount, without mention of rocker and cam lobe positioning. if you incur issues in the near future you might want to check them again! I’ve only seen it in the first minute or two of start up, never long after, so you’re probably in the clear. High mileage/poorly taken care of engines can have too much wear in the HLA seat so the HLA sits lower than it should as well. GD has seen it, I have not. They usually rust away before that mileage here. Haha. I’d probably shim it out if I ran across that.

SJR has shipped me stuff quickly before.

Those cam cases are annoying - tons of cleaning and careful - get 5 feet of perfect bead on there and take note of the proper dry/cure/wait/set time, get it in place without disturbing the bead and if it’s the drivers side it’s the extra long one for the disty drive gear......it’s worth attempting to get it to move without pulling it. if you wedge a small pry bar between the cam lobe and rocker that should get it to move with some prying. It takes a good deal of pressure to press the valve so you probably won’t get it to go in much but it should move. I’ve done it before with an engine in the vehicle and valve cover removed. I can get a slight bit of travel on the valve, but not much. If the valve is hung open then the rocker should be “loose” at the the low point of the cam lobe on that rocker. Is That happening? unless the HLA is hoses and sticking up too high and exerting pressure on the valve at all times...if that’s even possible. I’ve seen HLAs seize in “high”‘positions but never enough to hang a valve.

i might be missing it but i don't see any corrossion that's note worthy. i would think you could get some feeler gauges or small screw drivers or something down there to see how much clearance there is (if any) or press on the top of the valve spring to compress the valve spring and valve to get it to move through some range of motion (into the cylinder). then maybe it'll free up and come back up as well? i would guess there's either something physically obstructing the valve or it's stuck and will easily free up and start moving without much effort. i'd want to at least give it some light encouragement to free up on it's own to avoid all that work...if possible, without damaging anything else. seems like compressing the valve spring on that valve should get it to move in at least somewhat if it's not totally bottomed out, which is hard to imagine - if that were the case you'd have a ton of clearance.

Dude it bolts right up, there's nothing to it. Get the ujoint, tie rod ends, and mounts/bushings....I don't know if they're different but have them just in case if it's coming from a parts car. You could compare part numbers from Subaru to see if each of those parts are the same or not.

does the valve spring and retainer look normal, any rust, is the rocker arm still in place, is it just a tiny amount hung open, or a lot, why isn't that falling out, have you tried to move it? how long is the cam lobe and rocker arm in contact with the valve retainer? bore scope to see if there's anything hanging the valve inside the cylinder.

There are quite a few odd EA82 fueling changes and differences from 86-88. Carb flapper MAF SPFI MPFI and wasnt there a weird mix oddball that had a carb but some kind of controller too one year? some with knock sensors and some without and some with O2 and some without. and each model was sometimes treated differently across that spectrum. That’s a seriously confusing mess of 3 years! And Plenty of room for some asterisks.

???? I have done it. That’s how I know “limp mode” doesn’t exist. I was stating that as an illustration - anyone can go prove it in a matter of minutes, there’s no need to guess. We arent disagreeing so much as addressing and cross communicating different parts and tangents of this thread. you’re addressing another comment that was ambiguous. It is 100% correct turbos in general don’t require an oxygen sensor. That comment was ambiguous though, he could have meant “a turbo equipped with an O2 can’t run without one” or “no turbo has ever been made without an O2 sensor”. He’s been around cars enough I wouldn’t think he meant the latter. There’s also some ambiguity from the original post. Maybe it’s just about clarifying documentation but often a post has underlying goals. maybe he’s trying to drive it or fix something?

There's no need to "think" or make up concerns - just go unplug one and you'll see that they run and drive just fine and there's no "limp mode', depending what you mean. "limp mode" is somewhat ambiguous in this case. without appropriate O2 sensor input the ECU simply like during warm up when it's not using the 02 sensor at all. It'll run rich, except indefinitely which will likely foul the plugs or degrades the converter in 10's of thousands of miles depending on conditions.

US EA82's have oxygen sensors, including 85 and 86 XT's and 85-87 turbo's I believe. Subaru part number 22690AA000 These old ECU's are primitive and will run fine....but probably rich and foul the plugs and burn up the converter over time and turbo's don't really need extra running variables...but few people drive an old Subaru long enough to notice and those that do would just fix it proper.

I didn't consider swapping the entire valve train. I've always just swapped heads or repaired individuals valve train parts, I haven't interchanged the entire valve assembly. Delta can build up the cam lobes and machine them back down but right on, they'll never know until they have them in hand.

Good job posting the pictures. That add-on unit isn't going to be very typical of Subaru. Did you look in the owners manual? Do you know the part number of the old belt or if it was a standard length belt for that vehicle? Is this a length or alignment issue or both? Get a shorter belt if it's too long and you're running out of adjustment space. If reliability is an issue and you need this car to run - get two belts so you have a back up if you suspect possible alignment issues.

I doubt that will work. But you can try it, the EJ is such a common form factor across a variety of changes it wouldn’t be a surprise if it “worked”. Might get lucky but you may not get any direct feedback. No one swaps those cams or the few that know won’t see this post. Most people swap the entire heads or buy a camshaft like el Freddy just said. Delta cams has camshafts they can sell you or they can repair your old one. do that and sell the new heads.

EJ (any Impreza/legacy) can work up front if the control arm is modified to the larger EJ ball joint. youll need to ditch the XT front struts no matter which option you choose aside from custom made hubs or converters which aren’t available.

was the belt ancient, stretched, or the wrong part number? There’s at least two different EA82 AC set ups, you might want to post a pic or link to a google image search showing what you have and how you’ve got it set up. at the minimum - is your AC compressor on the outside or inside of the alternator?

97 heads won't bolt up to your 95 engine - the 95 has dual port exhaust heads and the 97 has single port exhaust heads. You'll need to swap the exhaust manifold as well to use the 97 heads. You may also have EGR differences. 95 MT's don't have EGR, 95 AT's do have EGR, 97 is a mixed bag but almost always has EGR. Don't worry about the cams if you're swapping an entire head. 97's are a different valve train with manually adjustable valves, your 95 heads were hydraulic. I would guess the additional geometry and actuation protocols mean your calculations are too simple to account for actual end result. In the end it shouldn't matter - the heads are entirely interchangeable and 97 heads run just fine on EJ22 blocks.

Interesting thought and option. It will probably depend on how and why the current pump/fuel system isn't working. Maybe the old pump was still operational enough to prime and aid the function of the new one. or maybe the new one could do the trick alone. i'm game to give it a try one day and see if it works. The front fuel lines are easy enough to access to give it a try. Just be careful with sparks and leaking fuel - extra custom wires, pump, clamps, old car, close to battery, enclosed in engine way....sounds a little risky.

Excellent glad you got it.

Taking a picture of your engine bay may help. particularly the area around the drivers side front corner. Did it originally have AC or not? Does it have buttons and controls for it inside or a condenser in front of the radiator? If it used to have it then yes just add all the necessary parts that are missing which is usually just the compressor, two compressor hoses, bracket, belt pulley and bracket. if it didn’t originally come with it you won’t be able to do it unless you want to put way more work into it than what it’s worth. you’ll have to add all the parts which is extensive - Compressor bracket pulley hoses condenser firewAll hoses drier Sensors evaporator, pull the entire dash or find a work around....that’s days and days of work and then you can’t turn it in and off - are you going to hard wire it or swap wiring harnesses...that’s just a mess of a job to do much less explain easily.