idosubaru

can you reseal an EA81 oil pump like you can an EA82, a new oil pump might not be necessary? do a search for online subaru parts links. subaruparts, 1stsubaru...etc..one of them has really cheap parts.

like michael said, it's in Scranton, PA and i got it for my best friend in georgia. now to figure out a way to get it to MD or WV.

that sounds very strange. that's like having a recommended replacement interval for an engine? very strange that they would tell you that applies to all cars? there are many motors that will not blow headgaskets prior to 200,000 and even 300,000 miles if never overheated (read - experience coolant loss or thermostat failure...etc). the headgaskets on some motors will hold the life of the vehicle. problem is most people don't maintain cars to that age and they eventually overheat to a cooling system failure, but avoiding that there are engines that will not blow a head gasket. that is fact. my oppinion is that a properly done 2.5 with the updated headgasket would even fit that, but that's certainly debatable but not worth debating.

he PM'ed me and here was my reply, i'll copy it here so i can keep things straight: i'm not sure what you mean by "metal side in". the "flat" side...which i would call the "metal side", should be installed facing OUT, not IN, so you may have installed it incorrectly? the seal will have a lip on the "inside" portion, with a sealing spring inside of the lip...but you won't actually see this metal sealing spring unless you peel the lip back or look closely. here's a better way to say it...seals typically (at least the stock subaru seals), will always have ANY writing, number, or lettering on the OUTSIDE of the seal, it should be facing you after you install it, you should still be able to read those numbers. there is no numbering or lettering on the side that faces IN. does that help?

ha ha, i bought the car, hope it comes out okay!

manuals are cheaper to rebuild. less fluids to monitor and change, manual has front gear oil only, the auto trans has front diff gear oil and ATF both. if you're towing or using it for out of normal duties you don't have to worry about the ATF overheating. no filter to change (in the newer 98+ trans). it's easier to "rock" a manual trans if you're stuck. since this is titled only about the benefits of a manual trans i'll leave out the benefits of an auto trans and the cons of a manual trans.

anyone wanna let me know what it says on this vehicle? email or PM?

if properly replaced they should never need to be replaced again. the first time around, what brand gaskets were used? it should have been Subaru, if not then that's a possible cause. if not then the shop likely didn't properly clean or torque the head bolts or the heads were not checked and milled.

mikeshoup replied on the xt6 group: "The bottom of the T is the smaller wire (goes to the dash light), and the larger wire is the top of the T (comes from the fusible links)" worked like a charm! thanks mike!

i went to replace my alternator plug today with a new one. i cut the old one off and when i got inside the plug crumbled instantly into pieces leaving me with only two wires. a black one and a white one. i *think* i recall how they go, but want to be sure before i put them together. if anyone knows, can check an FSM or can look, help me verify which wire goes to which terminal? or can i test with a multimeter and verify some way? i'm supposed to leave tonight at 6pm on a road trip....grrrrr.....i got 5.5 hours to figure this out.

i don't think that's right. pretty sure it's a bolt up affair with a few minor issues. wiring is not one of them and i don't think exhaust is one of them. 95 is a dual port, if it were a later model 2.2 you would need the exhaust manifold, but not with a 1995. that being said, swapping an exhuast manifold is really easy. anyway....the big issue here is the bell housing bolts. the 4 bolts will line up with 4 out of the 8 bolts that are in the other one. so bolt up, no problem, the issue is with the starter. you'll end up with only one starter bolt that lines up properly i think is how it goes, this is from memory. there are two options, just use the one bolt on the starter. or you can drill and tap the second bolt hole that you need, i believe the "spot" is there for the bolt to be easily drilled and tapped. there's more information on a 99 swap, it has been done and isn't that much more complicated. if you're paying to have it done, it would be better all around just to have the head gasket done more than likely. if you're doing it yourself the 2.2 swap has advantages.

caliper rebuild kits are cheap and easy to do. i've seen the kits for between $5 and $15 before and that's for both calipers.

push your gear selector all the way forward, jiggle it, shift it through the gears and put it in park again....fiddling with it may get it to come out. is the steering wheel locked and does the key turn at all?

i'm not sure what you're asking.

best bet is to use the permatorque Fel-pro heads, otherwise the FSM suggest the headbolts need to be re-torqued. but physically those kits should have just about everything you need.

they posted some good info and pic's earlier about the vacuum lines, i'd look over those earlier posts in this thread. vaccuum on the right lines should get you out. but your push button on the stick might need to be properly depressed for it to actuate properly. i can't recall if they are momentary switches or toggle type? if it's momentary i'm wrong, but if it's a two position switch then it'll need to be "unlocked" for it to stay that way probably.

thanks dave. i saw that on your other thread post, makes sense, so this one should work. i'll mail it to him and see what happens. thanks.

the short answer, your owners manual will give you vehicle/model specific information. the long answer: that it happens on one vehicle, doesn't mean it happens on all. you will not see this kind of activity on your subaru. certain vehicles burn through wires at an excessive rate, not so with subaru's. the most likely way for subaru wires to degrade is by someone removing and reinstalling improperly or tearing/damaging the end. your owners manual will tell you how often you should replace them. 60,000 miles is a healthy time to change them assuming you have Subaru OEM wires, but they can easily outlast that if you like doing it that way. you should always use OEM wires on this engine. the EJ series engine (like your vehicle) are not good candidates for anything but OEM wires. the only other suitable alternative is magnecor. i always use magnecor spark plug wires and never replace them again, they will last the life of the vehicle and will not break-down. they are excellent, check out their website, they are a no gimmicks high quality manufacturer. no other aftermarket wire should be used on this engine. i also use magnecors on all other vehicles that have incessant wire issues like the minivan you mentioned. it solves the problem every time forever.

I broke the purge control solenoid (i think that's what it is) on my friends SPFI Loyale, the one by the thermostat housing. I do not have access to the vehicle, 'im trying to mail him the correct part. It has the little black cylinder hanging off of it, and is bolted right behind the thermostat with two vacuum lines connected to it. Rob sent me a replacement, but it looks like it's off a turbo engine, at least i found one on an EA82T in my shed. it's located behind the thermostat housing as well, but looks a little different. it doesn't have the cylinder on the side of it, it's more square looking. all this to ask, are these interchangeable or do the solenoids have to be identical? i also have some solenoids from my XT6...would those work?

the XT axles would have worked had you specified Turbo axles. play around on advanced auto parts or some other websites and try to get particular part numbers and specific info so you're armed and ready when you go to order them at your favorite local place. better yet order a set from MWE, aftermarket axles have a bad reputation. MWE is in Denver and is a high quality subaru axle rebuilder. i and others have had store bought axles blow up nearly instantly.

you won't have any problem hauling an engine in the back of your toyota pick up. i've hauled engines, transmissions in the back of my 2 door XT6 coupe, they fit in the trunk even. with one i can even close the trunk, with two i can't if they're full engine assemblies. an engine, while heavy isn't that heavy that any typical road vehicle wouldnt' be able to handle it.

crank pulley is 22mm, you're correct. i always replace the water pump anyway, but since you have leakage you definitely want to. the water pump lies behind the timing belts, so that's why everyone replaces them while the belts are off. also with the belts off it is best to replace the cam seals, crank seal, oil pump gasket, oil pump seal and oil pump o-ring. the crank seal is by far the most annoying one to replace, everything else is easy. when replacing the cam seals, do not just replace the seal. by the seal KIT from http://www.thepartsbin.com or somewhere else. it has the seal and the o-ring that's behind the cam cap. the cam cap is held on the cam shaft by a couple 10mm bolts, remove them and the entire housing that the cam seal resides in comes off the cam tower. this makes seal replacement very simple. then replace the o-ring behind it, the old one will be matted and obviously squished out of round. remove the radiator first so as not to damage it and you'll want to inspect it and the hoses as well for leakage. the water pump will come with the o-ring on the water pump pipe. be sure to clean this, i lube them up with a tacky sealant. then make sure the bolt holding that pipe is'nt stripped or loose. don't forget to make sure you get the right water pump, there are two available for the EA82. the one i bought for a loyale last week was $29 from napa, that's all i can remember and it was the right one. i picked up a $58 kit on ebay, it included two new timing belts, both timing belt tensioners brand new and a new idler sprocket. so the entire timing system was replaced new. i'd probably want to know where the antifreeze leak was first before dumping all of this money into the vehicle if you suspect the head gaskets. there are heater core hoses, throttle body hose, radiator hoses and a few tiny hoses on top the engine in various places that can leak as well. inspect those carefully, overheating an engine due to a $1 hose is annoying.

the subaru FSM and this board would be your best resource for doing the job. take the FSM with you to a parts store and compare it to a Haynes manual and see if it really offers you any crucial information, i think you'll find the FSM's all you need. if you decide on an aftermarket set, like nipper said, Haynes is the way to go over Chilton's.

average depends on where you live, what kind of driving you do and how you shift. since it's mostly driver dependent, there's really no average, but a lightly driven clutch won't have any problem making 150,000+ miles. poor aggressive driving and it won't make 50,000.

coils can fail. the mis-fire codes are usually ignition wire related. they HAVE to be Subaru OEM wires on the EJ series engines (which yours is). they are not forgiving of aftermarket wires. they also need to be securely seated and removed/installed carefully. aside from that, the coil sounds like a good place to start. if you wanted to really narrow it down you could swap plug wires around and see if the mis-fire "moves" with the wires, then you'll know it's the wires for sure.