idosubaru

used is certainly better than bent! post in the parts wanted forum here on usmb. i have an RX i could grab one off of for you if it's the same (pretty sure it is). power steering rack, not manual. for new: http://www.thepartsbin.com has some for $29 and up for EA82. http://www.rockauto.com has really cheap prices sometimes but make sure you're getting the right part.

here it is. i got no credit on it, but i did write this...: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50430

if you buy locally you can always buy and then return the ones you don't need. if you have a press you can order new bearings and install them yourself. think i got mine from http://www.thepartsbin.com for the EA82 and they were cheap, well worth having new bearings. i've repacked them since then as described in my write-up.

might be a coolant line, not very familiar with your engine set up. there is also the intake manifold which has two gaskets on it that can leak. they look much harder to replace than they really are. with engine warm and running look under there and increase the RPM's in neutral and have a look. use flashlights/mirrors whatever helps to get a look at it. be nice to use compressed air to blow any debris/pooled up water out of the way.

i think this is the one i want. what book did you get this from? dealer parts book? for a non-turbo XT 1987.5...this sounds like the one i want. thanks!

i posted a thread about repacking the timing pulley bearings, i'd do that while you're in there. the EA82 are trickier to get at than the XT6 (which are easy, less than a minute each), but can be done. they are inexpensive enough to buy new as well (unlike the XT6 at well over $100 each). do all the timing pulley bearings.

replacing the O2 isn't a bad idea.

No check engine light? how old is the timing belt? i'd wonder if it is old or not tensioned properly? by brakes inspected what does that mean? did they actually pull the caliper apart and grease the slides or just inspect them by saying the function properly and have good rotors/pads? perfectly working brake systems can still drag. check that all tires rotate easily - bad bearings? O2 sensor? is the a/c on all the time? gas cap leaking?

the valve covers and grommets leak often. if you have a leak and that's your only concern i'd address the leak by replacing the valve covers. it is normal for the oil pressure to be high at start up and reduce as the engine warms, it's supposed to do that. on the oil pump are two....from memory i believe hex screws that are accessible by the oil pump. i think you can get to them without puling the pump off. i believe they have a spring in them, this is likely the pressure relief. id' say pull this out and clean it. what engine is this??? 93 loyale....that's still an EA82? there is also a spring related mechanism in the cam tower under the oil squirter bar. it's attached on one end by like a 12mm bolt and on the other end by a 17mm banjo bolt. under that bolt is a spring and a little connical shaped thing....this may be some type of relief valve too, don't know. i clean it out when ever i get into the cams. this is unlikley needed in your case (no pun intended).

called the dealer, but it only gets more confusing: 22611AA320 FWD Nonturbo 22611AA290 AWD Turbo 22611AA073 AWD Nonturbo he said these were part numbers from 8/85 - 7/87 that doesn't make sense as i know they changed from 86-87-88 and why does AWD/FWD matter for the ECU? i guess i'm looking for he 073 if that's the right year.

replace thermostat like he said, don't run it hot and let us know what happens. while the hoses are disconnected for the thermostat install you can run water through the radiator to make sure it's not clogged as well. once you're done diagnosing, drain and refill the radiator with distilled water and antifreeze before hooking the hoses back up. no need for tap water in the system, you want distilled.

can anyone hook me up for a non-turbo 1987.5 XT ECU part number? im getting mostly 22611-AA320, but seeing some discrepancies trying to find it online.

post what engine you have, either EA81 or EA82 and also carbbed or fuel injected. some of us are only familiar with FI engines like myself so i can't help you out as i believe yours is carb but i dont' know when or what models have carb. if it's like the fuel injected (FI) cars then it's by the passegers side rear wheel, crawl under the car and you'll see it mounted up underneath there. but again, i don't know the carbed vehicles at all.

welcome aboard. check out the search function. above is a button, click on "Search". find most things you want in no time, here's a link to one i found with the search button. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51970&highlight=parts click on that link and scroll to the bottom of the page as well, below the posts. you'll see links to related threads about parts, should have anything and everything you want in no time.

ah, that's pretty good. i only get a tad better than that on all highway driving in my impreza all tuned up. i was wondering if the impreza gas mileage is body design, weight, gearing or engine related. or combo.... i bet it'd get good mileage in an XT frame/trans. what trans do you have in there?

i get 26/27 in my impreza with a EJ22. what are the EA guys getting that installed these? i get the feeling i'm going to get single digit numbers due to the off-road and turbo installs!!!

wonder what causes that intake gasket to pop out like that? my JDM motor came the same way, i replaced the gasket before dropping the engine in figuring it was a freak occurrence. but you had it too? how odd, i've never seen that on a USDM engine with zillions of miles on them.

imdew, can you send that to me as well? grossgary @ yahoo DOT com

has it always done this since getting the tires 6 months ago or started some time after getting the tires? i'd have the tires balanced. the place that installed them may do it for free. you can even check yourself, look at the outside and backside of each wheel and see if you can see balancing weights or a spot where there "used" to be a balancing weight. one may have fallen off. hard to tell visually because old ones may have left marks and there might not be many....but a visual check can sometimes show something. take it and they can check for you. if you've been off road or hit any potholes, any kind of hard hits like that, it's more likely to happen. if you are feeling it in the "floor" so to speak then it's likely a bad ujoint. unfortuantely unless they are near failure the ujoint problems i've seen can not be diagnosed unless the driveshaft it actually removed from the car. they'll be seized, lots of slop or very lumpy....the seized and very lumpy variety failures are diffiuclt if not impossible to diagnose on the car. that being said....on this new of a vehicle i'd suspect something very strange to be at work here. can't imagine a bad u-joint this soon.

i got coil overs on mine. XT6 FWD struts all the way around. most set ups will make the car ride "nose down" that's why he's saying flip the rear top hat. for a little effort you can get new struts and check out our conversion write-ups on http://www.xt6.net tons of information there on swapping.

stock size is the only option that i know of. but new, not used. at 20 years old the stock ones have seen better days. did you hit anything to bend it?

sounds like it's in the same position as the XT6 TCU, probably alot of the EA82, if not all are located there. glad it's going away...hopefully the new fluids does the trick.

sure thing. good luck with it. the 2.5's aren't very nice in the head gasket department, lets hope it's something else.

can you use a flexplate off the car you're trying to match as a template?

check for spark at the coil now. keep working your way "back" so to speak. no spark at plug, now narrow it down even further. if your coil is sparking then your problem is between the coil and plug (wires, distributor, cap, rotor, t-belt). if the coil is not sparking then all of those items are ruled out....with the exception of the CAS in the distributor *maybe*. this will help us help you, let us know what you get. just ground the coil wire like you did when you tested the plug wire. guesses: ECU, transistor under the coil, and the coil are common issues. got another coil and transistor to swap in (quick and easy test)? any recent work done, attempted jumping of the battery, motor get wet?