idosubaru

there is no need to pull the motor to do EA82 (or ER27) heads. besides the turbo (which you'll have to deal with no matter if you pull the engine or not), the EA82 head gaskets are cake. pulling the motor is a waste of time in my oppinion. all those hoses, cables, transmission lining up and wiring. much quicker with the motor in the car and cam/heads bolts are still accessible with air tools. i just pulled a motor and installed my JDM monday. lots of time pulling and installing that isn't necessary for just head gasket replacement.

i just did this last week on my JDM EA82 as well. i attach a drill to a 12mm socket and run the oil pump directly. then turn the motor over by hand after installing the timing belts to get things moving. i've actually turned the motor over by hand before and oil will come out of the oil pump. try turning the oil pump by hand, you can remove the filter first try to see if oil is actually coming out. using the starter is fairly common but i've never done it. follow directions above.

so the entire clutch cable is good it looks like based on your drawing? anyway to post a digital picture of it? if it's cable related, buy a new cable. if it's the arm that the pedal connects too then that is strange. has it failed yet or is it still useable? weld it.

if i convert my XT Turbo to 5 lug - i'll have this camber issue? i've swapped hubs, struts, axles, ball joints, control arms on my XT6's without ever getting an alignment and i've never had uneven tire wear or pulling so i'm not familiar with these kind of issues. will i get bad tire wear with this 2.5 degree camber issue you're mentioning on the XT Turbo?

spread the strut mounts apart with a power puller or whatever. that's what all the XT6 guys do to convert.

it's a justy, get someone to help you pick it up!

that is cracked up. ask them to move it? they got fork lifts right? and what's that, a double decker XT in the background! woo hoo!

cool, that's what i was thinking. i don't care where the front e-brake is now unless i'm missing something. i'll keep XT6 stuff and the front ebrake when i do the conversion as well.

97 and up 2.2's are interference engines, not sure it really matters what it's called. haven't heard that lingo used much on the new generation forum. you should replace it at that mileage or earlier. "kablooey", is relative but chances are high that $eriou$ internal damage could occur.

why is the front e-brake so dreaded, can't upgrade calipers or something more? impreza bearings are better than XT6, why is that? nice info in here, great job fellers'.

this comment needs to be edited. 1997 and later 2.2 engines are all interference engines. before that they are non-interference. i can't remember but 2.5's have a 105,000 mile timing belt and some 2.2's may have come with that from the factory as well. im' not sure, have to look into that one. but if the manual says 60,000, i would replace it immediately, not worth the risk in my oppinion. this is an excellent list if you'd like the car to last quite a long time. the idlers and rollers are not necessary, but excellent prevenative maintenance items, particularly on interference engines like this. some people replace the water pump ever other timing belt. but again, while you're in there it is a good idea to replace it, i would. you should have your timing belt changed at least by the recommended mileage, if not sooner. your 1999 2.2 is an interference motor, if the timing belt breaks you will most likely result in some level of damage, large or small to the pistons and valves. this is not to be taken lightly. i would replace it immediately. i did last summer in my 2.2 impreza with 60,000 miles.

copy that. the gearing within the transmission is to be paid more attention to for milage considerations. so he should be concerned about swapping his 5th gear for the best mileage and leave the rest as is if he wanted to get that far into the trans. or look for a trans with the best 5th gear ratio for mileage.

get a can of starting fluid or whatever people recommend and use the long piece that comes with the can, looks like a thin straw. use that to direct the spray while the engine is running. when it hits the leak the engine will rev and sputter. i saw a guy at the shop i take my stuff to get inspected with the exact same car and issue. pretty sure it was an intake manifold gasket leak. but each instance can be something different. just get a can, start spraying and ask if you have any questions. won't learn until you try it. it's really simple, point and push the button.

there's a substantial difference in the XT6...sort of. XT6 automatic AWD 3.7 final drive - 28.7mpg max highway mileage XT6 manual AWD 3.9 final drive - 27 mpg max highway mileage note the auto getting higher mileage than the manual, due to the better gearing for highway cruising. *edit* as dxrflyboy mentions below this is due to overall gearing in the trans and final drive (small percentage). i've owned quite a few of these and done lots of highway driving. the automatic runs about 3,000 rpm's at the same speed the manual is running 4,000 rpms. worth it for the noise factor as well. cruising at 4,000 rpms is loud. lots of power if needed, but noisey.

there's a chance, but it's a small one. you can also leak coolant through the intake manifold gaskets. they have water jackets running very close to the intake runners. these can leak. this would be your best hope for a cheap and easy fix. does the car continue to bubble through the radiator after the engine is turned off? can you see any coolant in the cylinders if you pull a spark plug? on an EA82T it's hard to not think it's head gasket. how many miles before it needs coolant added. does it get hotter than a normal EA82T (even if it doesn't overheat). i would guess it's going to get worse. from what i've seen external leaks tend to stay about the same and dont' get worse after even 50,000 miles or more of driving. internal leaks not so lucky. speaking of very small leaks, if it is head gasket related and you drive the car for awhile with a small leak it can damage the heads. it will gradually wear into the head wherever the leak is, but this takes substantial mileage and driving like this on an internal leak. i don't know why, i suppose it's some kind of localized heating at the very point of the leak. no matter the reason, it does happen as i've seen it. external leaks that i've seen wont' do anything, but internal leaks will damage the head as i mentioned earlier. it can be repaired though.

you say the alternator broke? how, what happened? do you mean the drive belt that runs the alternator? you say it "wrapped around the cam belt", what does that mean? did it wrap around and do any damage or just wrap around? you didn't mention that the cam belt was affected in any way. but the crank sensor is driven by the cam belt, so need to know exactly what happened to the belts. are the timing belts timed and working properly? make sure it's plugged in. easiest test would be to swap another distributor in. there's a recent thread about buying the crank angle sensor. search for distributor rebuild or something like that. the crank angel sensor in the distributor is sold for $67 i believe, link to the place it posted in the thread.

those are some sick headers man, awesome work yet again. we'll need a new forum soon "Boostedballs sick work Forum"

i've put different size tires on subaru's. if you currently run 205 70 then 215 70 shouldn't be an issue. one size in either direction will fit on the rim. you can use on-line tire size calculators to figure out what ratio is best to keep overall diameter and speedometer in synch, but the difference will be minimal for the little change you're looking for. be advised too that different brands/model of tire can look much "wider" than others regardless of the official "size". wider is worse in the snow.

i'd get a look at the bolts, on the ones i've done the bolts are rusted terribly and it's easier to install new bolts than try to reuse the old ones. other than that it's super easy, just annoying working from under the car. unbolt two bolts, clean up, install new gasket and two bolts with nuts and you're done.

antietam automotive in maryland area. i found it hard to locate suppliers as well, they should have that info more available. i have a set at home and a set of Fel-Pro or OEM subaru, i'll take pic's if i remember.

copy that, i thought all impreza's were EJ but get confused on which had the EA in the early 90's. thanks for the clarification.

there are local suppliers. the local guys knocked off $70 from their price to match on-line prices for head sets. doubt they have older subaru stuff in stock, so in that sense it's mail order no matter what.

the oil sump hangs quite low into the oil pan. i would think for gains worth the effort you'd need to shorten the oil sump as well. the baffles are quite low in the pan, so you could cut off a good deal "up top" relatively easily. what to do after that in terms of oil capacity i can't say.

corteco

your location says international so i can't tell where you live. each market is different. around where i live i would not get that vehicle. maybe in other areas you have fewer options and can only take what you can get/find. if you plan for the head gasket repair - can fix it yourself, have the $1,100 available for someone else to do it, have a spare motor or are willing to swap in a 2.2 if/when they fail then it becomes a better option. in which case you can usually just find a 2.5 subaru for $500-$1000 with a bad gasket to begin with and save yourself $2,000, then do the work. unless the head gasket was replaced i wouldn't buy a 2.5 for that much even with half that mileage. i wouldn't believe the seller unless they can absolutely prove the head gasket was replaced. note comment by previous poster, be very careful. it's not that all 2.5's are bad. but think about it....which 2.5's are most likely to be dumped by their owners....the ones that run great or the ones that are starting to show signs of failure?