ShawnW

All the ea82 models except maybe XT/xt6 have the same wheelbase so you could use the 2 piece from them but you would have to add a center bearing mount. I just took my Brat driveshaft down to a shop and had them lengthen it.

Spray carb cleaner in it like you would a carb car, just pop the rubber pleneum that says SUBARU FI on it off and spray it in there and then return the rubber to the throttle body and attempt to start it. It should momentarily run. You can also find a T fitting that is in the charcoal canister to intake plumbing and pop the line off that and spray some in there instead.

Welcome! We have been known to have a meet once in a while in the weather friendly months so keep an eye out for a post on that. Do a search thru the older generation forum and you will probably find what you are looking for.

Or click one of the users donor icons. Order the OEM piece from the dealer. It probably lasted 15 years the first go round.

The center section of the trans is the closest thing you are going to get to SVX but the gear ratio doesnt match if I remember correctly. A simple change of front differential would solve that though.

I would like your old trans if you opt to just put in another one. I dont want to buy it I will just get it out of your way. Ill also open it up at a later date if you want me to show you what blew up inside. There is an xt6 at PNS right now but i dont remember if its an auto or manual. I want to say its the manual with diff lock. Shawn (guy you met at PNS)..

Cool. My money was on the pitch stopper being gone or not tight.

Lotsa flat bladed screwdrivers. Insert one thru the side under the gasket and gently work it all the way thru and then work another in nearby until you start working the gasket and window out of the car.

You cant use the 82 grill unless you have the 2 headlight front end with the square headlights. If you have an 83/84+ quad headlamp take your existing grill and cut out the emblem so that the grill has room for the door to fit. Ive had 5 of these now, including one in my Vanagon...im sure a first.

You need to be patient on here, as stated in your now closed other post "plea for help" this isnt instant messaging. At times it will seem like it though if certain people are on USMB the topics really happen here. I agree, replace the MAF. Post in the marketplace if you are looking for one. Please also make your post titles specific to the subject so people that come on here in the future can use your posts.

I would disagree with the advice to cut the window out. Its good practice for removing your new to you window from the donor car.

Dont worry about it, they will be fine.

Napa does sell flex coolant line and standard flex line that doesnt have wire in it (lots easier to work with). If you need the Napa Part number PM me and I will get under my vanagon to check. I would avoid copper pipe unless youre a good plumber, the pipe is a PITA to sweat and keep vibration from damaging it.

PIAA or HELLA sells one that fits in place of the original i believe.

I saw your footprints at the yard you got the spider from today. Was there myself.

Are they rectangular and have Black covers that say SUBARU? Like these? (Shown without covers) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/1986-g.jpg If so you gotta take the lights themselves off the car to get the bulbs out. They are probably on a hinged bracket thats bolted thru the foglight fixture and removed with a 12MM wrench and socket on each side of the nut/bolt. From there theres 2 phillips screws holding the light together so you pull the back off and then the bulb is clipped into the housing. I believe a parts store will stock that bulb in most cases its a typical part number and Wagner made one when i needed a replacement. The factory kit doesnt have a fuse, its fused thru the headlight circuit and has a relay. The relay rarely fails as its inside the car under the dash and is pretty well made. If your headlights work its gotta be the bulbs if i had to bet.

Its prefered that people not just email you the information but rather attach the information so future readers can see what you needed too.

If the body is good and the interior is clean it could be. The market in Denver is higher than most places but here that would be a reasonable price. Check KBB.com for your zip code.

Make sure you arent hitting the motor mount studs on the crossmember and that you have the transmission jacked up a little bit. You may also have a metal splash plate on the bottom of your engine that is bent causing the engine to not slide on all the way.

If you clean the headlight lenses and put some really good bulbs in you might quit using them. I used to run them alot before that.

Depending on your elevation you may have the timing set to "factory" spec but it may need advanced or retarded because you are not at sea level altitude. For example, a Subaru at 5280' of elevation (Denver Colorado) needs about 4 degrees of advance additional, so 12 degrees to do well. My brat did real crummy on fuel when I first moved to Denver and then did 30MPG at 12 degrees. Made a huge difference in fuel savings and power.

Think of them as just a big fuse for multiple circuits in the fusebox. There should be the amount of voltage the battery contains flowing thru them (12 off 13.8-14.5 running).

If you want to sell the spare engine cheap and would be willing to strap it to a pallet let me know. Im looking for a core.

Try doing a search for copper bushings. A guy here had replaced all of his with copper ones from a hardware store if I remember correctly.

Exactly