MorganM

Yeah good call All Talk I should have mentioned I removed all my AC stuff and never used it anyway. That AC pump puts quite a load on the engine when you run it and the extra cooling is critical at low speeds or stopped.

Try to get them off of another EA82 and not an EA81. The EA81 wagon wheels are shaped SLIGHTLY smaller on the inside and will rub on your EA82 front calipers. You can grind down the edge of your caliper to make them fit if you want. Good luck in your search! They are kinda rare around here too

Yes, they are 99% worthless I replied back to your PM !_!

Yeah I hard wired it. My thermosensor was broken. Originaly I had a switch in the cabin, controling a 15 AMP relay under the bonnet which controled the fan itself. Since I have just wired up the fan directly to the switch. Not the best idea but switches are cheap and easy to replace Relay makes a more safe circut and is recommended.

Around 15 MPG I have no O2 sesnor hooked up however so that can be 5 MPG right there on an EFI engine. I easily maintain 70 MPH in 4th gear. Usually slip it into 5th gear coming down hill but any incline and its right back to 4th

I've been running just an electric fan now for several years. This is on a stock single row radiator, stock electric fan, EA82 SPFI. I dont even have to turn it on unless I'm moving under 30 mph or at a complete stop. You could also run dual electric fans for superior cooling.

Called all my local Subaru stealerships and talked to service techs. Most seem baffled or unwilling to talk about it. One said I have to use the master cylinder off of the car with rear discs. This seemed fishy to me so I called up a parts department. Asked if there was any difference in master cylinders on an '88 GL with rear drums vs rear discs. He said the only difference is if you had a hill holder or not; other than that they were the same. I have 2 more techs to call that were out of office for a few hours. I spose I'll see what they say also. Wish I was at home worknig on them intead of just sitting here wondering

Yeah I think the Liberators would serve you well. Bump upto the 235/75 That's an inch shorter than mine (R14 vs R15). Should have little trouble making room for them with the 3" BYB lift. Yes MPG sucks and the speedo I dunno my speedo cable is unhooked. I can keep up on the interstates tho !_!

Yep, pug is short for pugeot. As for tires why not bump upto a 235/75 R14 (27.9" tall)? I run 235/75 R15 on my '88 GL wagon with 3" BYB lift. They are Wal-Mart Liberator All Terrains. Good tires on and offroad so far. Definatly not mudders tho; strictly dry trail tires. They clear out OK when you get out of the mud but while you are in it they are just slicks What are you lifting?

Shadow: No rear porportioning valve. All the lines back there to it and the valve itself were so teribly rusted they were not salvagable when the lines finally started leaking Would a stuck Hill Holder calmp down just the rears and not the fronts? I thought it worked cross directionaly... so only one rear would clamp; right? stephenw22: Certainly a possibility with the rusted internals. The calipers (and everything else with teh swap) was salvaged off a junkyard GL10 turbo wagon. Not a whole lot of rust on her but sitting there for so long with any water in the lines I'm sure isnt good. Good idea with the pads The ones on there are practicly new; and very beefy. I could try shaving them down some. I'll prolly bleed it a bunch more first with fresh fluid. See if something gets dislodged in the rear caliper cylinders. Iff that dont work I'll pull them off and look again. All else Ill try the pads.

Hmm possibly. I've never done rear pads and these were almost new. Maybe I didnt slip them back fuarther and make more clearance for the rotor? As for water and steam; all this happend before moving. No heat built up to create steam I put on the calipers, bled them quickly (4 pumps at each point) and they were just locked up in the rear. I certainly agree with more bleeding Ugh... prolly time to pull them off and find out

One seems to be grabing harder than the other since one would I could barely spin with my hand and the other I could not spin at all. I thought air in the lines meant it would be extra squishy... less pressure.

So I finally get the wheels on and go for a test drive. Completed a rear disc conversion last week. Ran some hardline in the rear. Bleed the system lastnight and pedal is solid. Fire her up tonight to move it into the street for my windshiled install tomarrow and to test my new rear discs. While putting on my wheels I can feel the calipers are clamped down. I figure no big deal they will bust loose when I get moving. Fire her up and back out... still grabing hard. Went down a block and came back. Could hear them the whole way and feel that they were clamped down hard. When I had the calipers off I pushed the piston on the brake cylinder in so the pads would slip over the rotor. Seemed VERY easy to push them open. I lubed up all the seals right there around the piston and the whole caliper. Repacked every boot with new grease. Any ideas on how to bust them loose or to get them functioning properly? I'm at a loss and need some ideas to atleast look into. Thanks!

Ya, dont be me Also....

If they arent gonna sign off on it (and it sounds like you tried hard to get them to) then you gotta let them do it. I wouldnt do anything more; just bring it in and say "drain the coolant, add new coolant, add your bottle of junk, and SIGN OFF ALREADY" They are honestly just wasting your time on a technicality.

Finished up running my brake lines lastnight and bled the lines once. One major bullet point knocked off I have an appointment to get my windshield done tomarrow so that will be another major obstical accomplished. Know I'm cutting it close but I'm getting there! This SAT Archemitis said we could use his dads Harley shop to make me some real bumpers and tow shackles. Talked to Mudrat79 and Soobme about bumper designs and have drawn up some simple stuff. Not going for the pimpadelic look just simple, strong, and tow hooks We should get them done in one day with the shop at our disposal. I hope to buy all the steel FRI on my lunch break. Once the bumpers are done I should be pretty much set. Then all Ill need are some easy misc things like a new fire extinguisher (used mine during the drive shaft install! ) a first aid kit, CB antenna (broke mine off! ) and snatch straps. It's been weeks since I've offroaded! Cant wait for some Subaru offroad action!

Thats a pretty stragiht looking XT6 there and 80k miles? Damn she's just broke in! Going under the knife ? Had plenty of operations myself... just remember you are paying top dollar for this stuff and you should get your money's worth! Good luck!

Id swap in the 86 as is and rebuild the turbo motor over the winter

search is teh win!!11 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18593&highlight=terrain+tire

Great stuff but not in my budget this year

I'm no turbo expert but I belive you modify the waste gate so that it opens sooner and bleeds off boost sooner. How? Dunno... maybe someone can weight in on that. Great suggestions above. Start with a tune up. Also try some premium gas. I would honestly run premium (read: higher octane) all the time with a turbo engine.

Good form sir

LOL with 6 laying around I'd prolly use them too! Blow a few up? Who cares!

Maybe its the fuel cut off kicknig in? You can only boost so much before the computer starts cutting fuel supply. Someone before you might have tried turning up the boost a little and now when you get on the gas hard you hit the fuel cut off. Just a guess Any other symtoms ?

Cross directional brake bleeding is teh win!!!111 Had to run some new hardline in the rear... again... Just bleed them rear right, front left, rear left, front right and my pedal is stiff once more A few months ago I had to replace most of my rear lines. I must have bleed quarts by using other procedures that many claimed were the right way. speed bleeders + cross directional bleeding = easy bleedy brakes !_!