MorganM

sup thou glad to have another member! and you like to do mods? even better

Way too much work to move the rear main subframe back. I know it looks close but its not that bad. You can indeed trim the front half of the rear fenders w/o altering the door or how it functions. Open the door up and look at the fender there. You can see where the rubber seal on the door meets a flush surface on the fender/door jam. You can trim from the outside edge of that surface (leaving the door to seal properly when shut) and give yourself an inch or 2 right there. That is all I needed to do in the rear to make 30x9.5 tires fit back there on a 3" BYB lift and 15" steel pugs. The door is not cut and looks pefectly stock when you close the door. If you want I can take some really crappy digital photos of what I did there cuz mine is an '88 also A 3" BYB lift and 29" or 30" tires... youll look BETTER than that photoshop chop!

I just checked this weekend when doing my rear disc conversion. They are different The rear caliper brake cylinder bleeders are considerably smaller than the front. I couldnt find another direct bolt in replacement either in stock. There might be one that is available but this store just didnt have one. I went with my custom made speed bleeders that I had on my rear drums cuz they work just as well

There is a big difference; your girlfriend is right. The simple version is 4WD = Offroad and AWD = onroad. To run in 4WD you need to be on a surface that will alow your tires to slip if your drivetrain binds up. The AWD is specially designed to allow you to use it on dry pavement. As for the brakes you need to bleed them in the proper order. Front right,rear left,front left then rear right. The master cylinder is fine unless you let it run dry. Then you have to 'bench bleed' the master cylinder and I can go over that if it ran out of fluid. Speed bleeders can help a lot with bleeding. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16029&highlight=speed+bleeder

That's no fun; I like slinging junk on to the roof of my wagon

That thing was one of the coolest machines I saw in all the photos. Nice work!

It's never going to be done; and thats okay! Sounds like she's in rough shape . I wouldnt worry about how beat up it is. She'll never be a show car and honestly there isnt much to show as most people dont care about old Subarus. Nothing wrong with just making it an offroad rig. That's all my wagon is; a trail rig. It handels like crap, it looks like crap, its slow as crap and the brakes...you get the idea If it truely wont make you happy then ditch it and get a wagon, hatch, or XT. No sense in keeping a car you hate. But if she puts a smile on your face when you fire it up and you enjoy driving it around then keep it. I know I get pretty angry at my wagon some times. I've almost got 6 years into it now... months after months it has sat at a time. But when I get it fired up and on a trail its ALL worth it to ME! Is it worth it to you?

Go with a body lift. Its already easy to blow up CVs and stubs with just a body lift and big tires.

Hey! What's this doing on the second page? MIDWEST OFFROAD! So I called the duder at the offroad park. He was vauge at best on directions but I think I have them down. Good thing I got MS Map Point What are the camping facilities like? Should I be bringing a trowel and my own TP :-p Did Tim and Vicky commit yet??? Would be great to meet yall.

that sure is spiffy...

The EA81 wagon wheels are slightly smaller and will rub on your calipers up front So if you want wagon wheels get them off an old EA82. Pretty sure all EA82 wheels will swap between all other EA82. As for power; its the EA82 SPFI so you are pretty much on the high end already of stock power output LOL. It's not gonna be fast unless you have seriouse money and mechanical skills so I wouldnt worry about it. How slow is it ? Just kinda wussy or so slow it wont get out of its own way? You should have little trouble getting upto 80 mph or spinning the front tires.

Did it smell like burnt oil? Sometiems it can run down and build up in the combustion chambers. Burns off the next time you fire it up. Mine BILLOWS if I let it sit for more than a week Go by smell... oil? fuel? nasty gagenducing burnt coolant smell?

It's not really an instant thing. Youll just notice it slipping more and more when you try to take off or switch gears and drop the clutch. Eventually it gets so bad that it slips so much it never fully enguages. Then you just sit there burning up your clutch and over heating your stuff. One sure way to tell is when you switch gears form 1st to 2nd at a pretty high RPM. If you notice the RPMs still going up but you arent really accelerating any more

Are you working off of comission?

Yep... smells like a Subaru That's a pretty wussy leak. I wouldnt sweat it. How much are you loosing between oil changes? Wouldnt worry about it untill you have a more seriouse reason to tear into the whole front half of your engine. Just have to remember now you need to check your oil. I check my Subaru oil EVERY time I fill up on gas. It's a good habbit as you can also spot other problems much more quickly.

I wonderd if there wasnt a minor difference in the JDM dual carb heads that would make it harder than a bolt on swap Sounds like the difference is minor and you can maybe slot the holes on the header flanges to make it work? Or maybe an adapter plate if the difference is too much for slotting the holes?

Can't really comment on the JDM aspect of your engine but maybe this will be another piece to the puzzel. I have an EA81 exhuast manifold Y pipe on my EA82 SPFI engine. The funny little spacers go on the heads first then the Y pipe headers can bolt on. Kinda the opposite of what you are doing but maybe thats a good clue? Hope this helps

Amazing; thats a very unique rig to say the least. All that hard work really paid off. Well done

On say a GL10 turbo with four wheel disc brakes. Is there a porportioning valve in the rear? I didn't think OEM 4 wheel disc brakes used one in the rear but porportioned everything up front. I'd look myself but the nearest one is a 2 hour drive accross the state border

The nut size varies depending on wether or not it is a OEM new or rebuilt axle or an aftermarket axle. 36mm for standard and 32mm for the other. The punch needs to be a 3/16ths. The difference between 2wd and 4WD axles is the size of the shaft. 2wd axels are thinner than 4WD axles. __________________ Qman

TURBO

It was a joke? Ya know I wish I could depend on old Subarus as reliable transportation. I tried that, been there, and done that for years. Gets kinda old making repairs or mods in time to get to work the next day. If I'm going to work on my Subaru its gonna be something I want to do and when I have the time to enjoy doing it. I guess Subarus arent an addiction for me... just a hobby

Already coverd under the USRM by the Subaru Outlaw! Miles Fox http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=26

That's great man; congrats She'll even go IN the junkyards with you? DAMN!