MorganM

Shouldn't need to pull off the center plastic cover. Might need to pull off the dirvers side cover; mine's already off so I dunno for sure. That can be removed w/o pulling the center crank pulley. Nuts holding pulley to pump work the same; lefty loosey and righty tighty I've taken a shop rag and a big screw driver; wedged it down there between the water pump pulley and crank pulley; wedge whatever you got in there. Also you can leave the belt on and pinch it so its another frictional force against the pulley turning. There is a certain finese` with wrenches. Put the wrench straight up (12 o'clock) and focus the force downward more than outward/leftward... if that makes sense. Another trick ist ot put the wrench straight up and tap it with a hammer; poor man's impact wrench. Note when putting this back on how much of a PITA it was to get off; doesnt need to be super tight Let the lockwashers do the hard work. Only other thing thats gonna be a little tough is the inlet tube coming from the radiator to the water pump. Unbolt it from the cylinder head there under the alternator. Should be enough flex in the radiator hose to allow you to wiggle and pull it out of the pump. It's just a tight fit at the pump; no clamp or pinch bolts. It's a good idea to replace all hoses at this time. Top and bottom radiator hose. 90degree bend hose there on top of the water pump. Little eblow hose behind the throttle body. And if you can that little one from the block to the intake manifold there behind your power steering pump. Dont want to put on a new water pump just to blow a hose next week! Good luck!

That's different; PK is selling a BYB lift kit. Nobody wants to see anyone's design ripped off. However its a pretty simple lift idea and there are going to be similarities. Seems rude to toss around all these acusations before even seeing the product. Am I the only one that percieves him as inocent until proven guilty? Give the guy a chance!

Tire size is another factor in this equation. Got a GPS unit? That's what I used to help gimme an idea of my speed. Just go with the flow of traffic.

Sure it's not just the coffee and sleep depravation making you giggle

That would be sweet! There's two offroad events this APR in Minnesota. Would love to have you come up and break in that kit properly.

Tcat: I removed A/C; problem sovled Same with fan shroud. I know most fans shrouds improve cooling by their design; this one is pretty much just a finger guard. If you want to keep it on there for saftey reasons you can cut it in half and just put the top half back on; bottom half is prolly rusted away mostly anyway Ahhh... rust. I didnt think mine was TOO bad untill I ripped out all the carpet

Sounds like previouse owner had the belts on a tooth off; just cranked the dizzy all the way to make it work. Now that you put on the belts properly the timing was WAY too advanced; which is why you had to put it back to the middle. That's about where it should be and I think you are on the right track now. Advancing the timing would increase the 'pep'. Try just tow degrees at a time. Advance 2, drive around, see how it feels under load and advance or retard as you feel necessary. Also note if you advance it heavily you might want to run premium fuel for the higher octane rating.

As MilesFox noted they are there to assist you when installing a belt. The springs on mine are shot. One is complete junk (stretched otu like you described) and the other is pretty pointless. I threw the one away and left the other on there. Works just fine but makes installing the belt and getting it tight more tricky.

It's my understanding the top pitch bar on all the Subaru engines was a saftey feature. In the event of a head on collision it would help force the engine down and under the car; instead of straight back and into your lap! Thought I read it somewhere but can't recall where now...

Sorry I didn't find this post earlier; I don't come to this section often. Tim; I'm stripping a Loyale right now. I could pull off everything you need for the SPFI conversion. So far it sounds like pulling the harness would be the toughest part. I'm not looking to score big $ of this stuff; just enough to pay for the tow dolly and junkyard to take it away would be fine by me Then I could tell the wife it really was a "free" parts car! Send me a PM if you seriously want the stuff. I'm going to be pulling 90% of it off anyway as spare parts. Would perfer to see it go to a board member and actually get used instead of sitting on my shelves

That's good news on the axle geometry. I'm also wondering what is done to achieve the suspension lift. Taller springs in the mcphearson's and rear coil overs? On the trimming aspect. You noted not a lot was required. Would that seam in the unibody there that's perpendicular to the fenderwell need to be folded over? I had to pretty much flatten mine out to make room for 29"s. How much triming on the fenders? I'm all about cutting and bashing things out of the way for bigger tires; but a lot of people are scared to even roll the corners in... let alone cut them. Can you tell I'm a little excited to see a new lift kit coming to market? 13"s of clearance; thats sweet! Thanks.

Interesting to say the least. 13"s is alot of ground clearance for 29" TSL SS's. I got 11.5" ground clearance with 29" tires. I'm more interested in how the suspension lift aspect of your 4" kit is done. How about fitting those 29"s ? I had to pund a lot of stuff out of the way and cut my fenders in half. Will that be required. Look forward to more details on your site.

Nice welds!

and fix the fan while you're at it! Thou art asking for a blown headgasket or worse!

I noticed that I hear what you are saying; and it really does depend on what *you* want to do. Some would go big with tires and floor it as necessary. Some would match tires to the gears and crawl to victory. You did what you wanted to on your rig and it works for you. I guess thats what really matters Subaru; It's the Mean Machine!

If your pressure goes above what the MAX on the guage is; I'd say thats too high.

I'd cut it off right before there and go with a straight custom cat-back exhuast

A junkyard one can be hit or miss; this is true. The liftetime warrenty on parts like alternators doesn't mean you get free replacments until you die. It means you get one free one after the first one breaks. Now if that new one you got from the return breaks; SOL and time to buy another.

Sounds like the alternator itself. Time to get yourself a spare one. No more than a 15 min job on the side of the road if need be. Quick test to see if you are running on battery next time. Pop the hood while engine is running. Pull off positive terminal from batter; car should stay running off alternator only. If it dies and all electrical systems die then you are running on battery alone.

needs some real tires. looks like fun!

Cool! Whats that thar level for? Get'n fancy on us; are ya?

No fancy brackets here or one peice shaft. I threw aside the BYB 3" extension blocks for the bearing bracket, flipped the bearing upside down, grabed the driveshaft, centerd the carrier bearing bracket up into the tunnel and Archemmitis welded it in. No funny vibrations, no wobbeling, and its rock solid at 70 MPH. Hardest part was not catching the carpet on fire :-p Lowest estimate in my area for a solid shaft was $300. Wasn't in my budget I'd love one but thats what I paid for my lift kit.

I've seen both up close and personal; seperated from the engine. The bore on the base plate where the carb sits on the EA82 intake manifold is larger. The bore of the whole intake manifold from baseplate to where the intake runners meet the heads is larger. Yes its an upgrade but all by itself don't expect huge gains Also note the EA82 SPFI intake manifold is slightly different than the EA82 carb intake manifold. The baseplate on the SPFI intake mani is slanted back toward the fire wall. The baseplate on the carb intake mani is level so your float bowl isnt at an angle. So the adapter plate for a weber wont compensate for that angle on an SPFI intake manifold.

That person would be a complete air head then and needs to pay attention. I let off my brake pedal all the time at stop lights since I have a manual in both my cars. Never have I been rearended.

Gotta enguage it first. Come to a stop on a hill. Push in clutch. Then release and press the brake pedal firmly to set it. Should hear it click under the hood and you will be stopped w/o the brake pedal held down. Now you can put your foot back over the gas pedal