TallonX

This should have been posted in the old school section

F'n sweet dude glad to hear it

Lmao yeah my bug eyes make it stand out Populous = population XD = indication of sarcasm It would be cool for it to happen, arranged some SOGI (Supra Owners Group Inernatioal) meets several years back at the Centralia Factory Outlet Strip Mall Just running numbers

I'm in Rochester WA myself, just think it'd be cool for a gaggle of roos to descend upon the populous XD

I only scanned what has been posted, I seen no mention of checking the TPS About 75% of all the fool infected cars that I've worked on tended to be the case, misalignment (them Hondas do it on purpose I find it GAAYYY) or just bad as in the case of a 00 imprezza

The round plug to me looks like a remote port for a multi disc CD changer

Yup bouncing needle is your voltage regulator about to go poof... Done the alt swap myself only mine was from a Sentra 65amp. Near future there's a 120amp alt I got my eyes on...

Cheaply... Find yourself a MK2 Supra, if I remember right the rear is rated for up to 800 hp

Did my centers white and the outer ring black myself, no pics of em tho looks pretty good on my wagon, shot the grill the same way lol Deet Dee Dee My profile pic XD

Sigh... not trying to but heads with you dude why are you nitpicking? Neither of us can give a knowledgable answer without knowing the NOx output anyway lol

High HC and High CO = rich High HC and Low CO = lean Low HC and High CO = burning oil Hydrocarbons are our fuel source, I know where your coming from Gloyale but this is stochiometrics not just lighting something on fire which produces high levels of both and the emissions of which can be used as a fuel source in it's self, wood gas generators are an example, fun to build too not too practical power to weight.

Check your tps iac and temp sensor o2 might be actin up as well new or not

She's obviously runnin rich at idle so your either getting too little air or too much fuel. That's an MFI system isn't it?

Ha johnw your a local XD Dunno what's up with mine says it's an SPFI made in Japan when it's a Carb hencho en Mexico lol

Saweet truck, miss my 73 flatbed had a 360 in the beasty, everyone called them boat anchors like the 351m400 never saw why, was beatin ricers. Anywho back to Subaru... Timing with carb models has to be within tolerance because there is no computer reading this that or the other thing. Advancing the timing WILL lean out the emissions on a carbed rig, retarting it WILL enrichen it. Basic principals of combustion under compression. What controls that on EFI is the knock sensor, knocking being predetonation. My 87 wagon's emissions tag cassifies it as a LIGHT TRUCK. Really read the emission info under the hood assuming it's the original hood of course, it could be as simple as the tech punchin in the wrong info, hell could just as likely be an exhaust leak allowing air into the system if your hittin high O2 readings.

Well fool infected... pump, filters, throttle position sensor, knock sensor Carbed... cloged jets, float out of spec, pump, filter Either... rust clogging fuel lines/filter sock in the gas tank, ignition coil/ignitor Just off the top of my head

Yup yup Stupid question, your nick a Ford reference?

Ehem timing on the carbed 87 is 8 BTDC + or - 2 degrees

Try a different battery, you can still show >12V on a bad battery just the amps aren't there to push it. Connect your DVOM to the battery hit the flashers watch how far it dips with each pulse for an easy test shouldn't drop more than 1 volt each flash my car only drops .2v as an example

Uhm sounds like your on the wrong plug, those 3 lines are the timing markers for the belts Wait no light lol keep turning it and you'll find em, those marks are roughly 90 degrees from the timing marks

I've used "liquid glass" in an 82 Supra that sat for a few years, did it as a preventative measure after I got the ole gal back on the road sideways XD Anywho... My case it turned into long fibers like it was makin fiber glass in my cooling system, be very aware of what your doing. Get a system cleaner, flush the hell out of it, run the cleaner, flush the f*** out of it, then follow the directions on the bottle.

Any remaned import alt tends to be crap in all actuality lol Anywho, the Dodge alt I'm speaking of is a Nippon-Denso line ULT p/n 13313 I'm gettin this from the orielly's website btw I would drop the link but I'm doing this from my phone lol

87 GL Wagon Nissan alt was real easy, field wires go big one on the left small one on the right, spacer in my case was putting it in spot, spinning it while drawing a line, and grinding the smaller side down to said line. Please note this is my instance, differences in manufacturing cause different depths. The battery terminal wire eye connector needs to be upgraded cause of the larger terminal. Since this is only 15 amps over stock no wiring upgrades should be required. As far as the Dodge alt goes... it was a buddies alt, we were r&r his 3.9 litre. He didn't believe me that'd drop into my car, so I did. No connections mind you, just put it in spot.

Hi guys totally just did the swap, in my case it was from a 96 Sentra, 15 amp more than stock , and well necessity is the mother of all great things. Thinkin when I get the cash I might just chase an alt from a late 80s early 90s Dodge Dakota, case looks damn good eyeballed out pretty well anyways, double pulley, and well a 120 amp option... <insert tim allen moment>

They have it the wrong way around, 4wd would be a lower "plate" for the higher mounting on the arm and 2wd "plate" would be higher because of the lower mounting on the arm