GeneralDisorder

I haven't yet, but I wouldn't hessitate to do it. Heat should be no problem. There's plenty of other electronics under the hood anyway. I've also seen it done with an EJ22 swapped Brat a few years back at one of the shows. It's a good location - under the dash gets pretty hot as well due to the lack of airflow, hot electrical components, and proximity to the heater core. GD

With a Weber installed, it cannot affect performance in any way. It will continue to complain through the lamp and it will continue to power the fuel pump if you just leave it be. You can disconnect the lamp ground at the ECU if you want the light to go away. Accel coils are junk - made in mexico. They have a high likelyhood of failure and can cause premature failure of the ignitor in the distributor as it was not designed to switch the higher current spark they produce. It is also uneccesary as the stock ignition system is fully up to the task required of it unless you slap on a turbo and start boosting past about 5 pounds or so. The stock Hitachi coil is excelent quality and I highly reccomend sourcing a new OEM Hitachi unit if you suspect a problem with the original. Toss the Accel in the trash or at the guy that sold it to you if you prefer. GD

I stick to the bigger yards that have price listings posted on the wall. I don't like being looked up and down then charged "white guy" priceing. I don't have the time nor the inclination for haggling with folks that have fewer digits or appendages than I do (I retain all factory equipment despite years of abuse zzz). The LKQ yard in Sherwood is a good choice with plenty of SPFI vehicles. You could get everything you need there for probably under $200.... maybe a lot under depending on who rings it up. GD

The stock O2 sensor is a narrow-band and is entirely worthless as a tuning aid for a Weber. It would have to be replaced with a wideband+controller (about $250 minimum) and then the only thing you really need is the bung to screw the sensor into (which can be added to a non-O2 exhaust for about $2 and an hour of R&R, cut, weld, etc). GD

On EA82 cars the feedback ECU is much more complex than the EA81 system. Most of it's additional complexity will not be a problem but it does control the fuel pump so you will have to reroute power to the pump through a non-feedback fuel pump control unit. It's not as difficult as it sounds - just pickup an FPCU at the junk yard and splice into the 4 or 5 wires it needs to run. Most if not all of them are accesible near the ECU under the dash. GD

Almost every air-suspension system Subaru ever made has failed by now. Amazing your's hasn't been converted already. My 92 LS had it but was converted before I got it. Ripped out the pump and reservior when I replaced the driver's side fender. As said - pull out the struts and replace with a normal coil/shock setup. It will be much cheaper and will keep you sane. GD

Swap it to an EJ22. EA82's suck all-around. GD

I'm sure it could be, but you would have to build appropriate adapters to jack them in and out with all-thread. The key to getting it done without destroying something is for everything to be 100% even and aligned. That is almost impossible without building a jig to hold the parts because as soon as you start wailing on it with a dead-blow you'll mis-align it again. So you would need a method ivolving a jack-screw or as you say using a press. I have access to a 100-ton hydro-press at work so it's often easy for me to say "do it this way" as I forget how hard it was before I had such tools around. But I have done a lot of things with a bit of tubing, some washers and left-handed all-thread. It's amazing what can be done with a simple puller and some ingenuity. GD

Sounds to me like your idle circuit is plugged. Pull out the idle jet and make sure the tiny holes on the sides and tip of the jet aren't blocked. The carb is not equipped with an idle cut solenoid is it? Not idleing below 1000 RPM is a sure sign that nothing is getting through the idle circuit as you are having to open the primary throttle plate and you are limited in how slow the engine can run off the primary as it will not create a enough low pressure in the venturi to pull fuel through the primary nozzle. Where in the willamette valley are you? I'm in the West Linn, Oregon City area. I could probably solve your problem in an hour or less. You don't need a fuel pressure regulator, and you probably don't need to tear the carb completely down again. GD

Why not just buy the bearings from a bearing house and press them into the pulley's? Might have to fab some adaptors to press the old bearings out or the new one's in, but it would save quite a bit of money I should think. I've looked at the EA82 one's and I would do it in a second if I ran EA82's and if the kit's weren't cheap as dirt. For an ER27 I would do it for sure. GD

Inserting a quarter between the valve and the pipe going to the head is easier and quicker. GD

The AAV does not affect backfireing. You need to fix your exhaust leaks in the y-pipe and repair, replace, or eliminate the air suction valve(s). GD

Dealership. GD

So fuel is dripping from the main nozzle into the primary venturi during idle correct? One of these is true: 1. Throttle plate is not fully closed. 2. Blockage in the air corrector or emulsion tube. 3. Float level too high. 4. Float needle is not sealing. 5. Fuel pressure is too high. GD

EA82 adaptors are two-peice. Use a sheet of glass, some 600 and then some 1200 grit paper. Lube it with WD-40 and clean the paper often with WD-40 (don't clean it with solvent or you will destroy the paper). Also make sure your bolts aren't bottoming out or otherwise interfering with the fit. I've used the EA82 two-peice Redline adaptor several times without issue but I know that the bolts it comes with are not obviously marked as to where they go. You will also crack the adaptor if you aren't careful with bolt installation. GD

Does the valve close if you rotate the engine over? Otherwise, no - there is no additive that is going to fix that. It could be a stuck lifter or a more severe mechanical problem. You'll have to pull the cam case to inspect it. GD

I had a D/R 4 speed from an 81 Brat - installed it into an 82 Brat. It was a side mount starter. The 4WD shifter ball-joint has to be turned 90 degrees because of the linkage differences but other than that they are identical transmissions. Unless you can show difinitive proof of an EA81 with a top-mount starter I for one can't beleive it to exist. GD

I do not beleive that is the case. The 81 GL Brat also had the dual-range and is the same physical transmission as the 81 GL wagon. It should have a side-mounted starter. As far as I know, no EA81 ever came with a top-mount. GD

I must point out that the RX's FT4WD is NOT the same as later AWD transmissions. The FT4WD has a center differential (that is lockable), while the AWD transmissions have a viscous clutch pack instead. The VC allows some transfer of power (it's a form of "limited slip device") even if a single wheel is off the ground - the FT4WD's do not unless you lock the diff or have an LSD in the rear. The RS was a stop-gap solution to not having any sporty offerings between the demise of the RX and the introduction of the Legacy Sport Sedan in '91 (my car ). Unfortunately they were rather stripped down. If you are looking for a hot-rod, sell the RS and get something with an EJ series turbo engine of some flavor. The EA82 is a poor choice for a lot of reasons - do some searching and you'll get aquainted with them. As far as the LSD's go (the clutch pack units from the 80's). They are mildly better than an open diff for light duty stuff. If you are into anything hardcore they won't cut it. I went welded on my lifted rigs years ago and it's 10x better than an LSD and 50x better than open. GD

That's true but the SPFI could care less about the cat - and the O2, while potentially causing an emissions failure if not replaced every 100,000 miles or so (a massive $20 fix!), will not strand you somewhere if it isn't working. You can disconnect it and about all that will happen is your cruise mileage (freeway, etc) will go in the crapper. It will still run just fine as the O2 is not used for except for idle and cruise. It is not used for acceleration or WOT operation - it isn't used when any mixture other than stoich is required. GD

N/A MAF will not work. Wrong output voltages. The knock sensor is probably bad regardless of what it looks like. Mine didn't look bad either.... drop the $50 on a new one. Clean the MAF with some electrical contact cleaner. The wires get dirty. GD

A box wrench is the easiest way to get to the bottom nut. A sugestion for next time perhaps. GD

Same engine, so it would swap no problem. Everything else on the car is worthless to you though. The 81 GL Brat was an odd beast having the body of the Gen 1 and the drivetrain of the Gen 2. GD

The O2 on the SPFI's does not require a cat. It's before the cat and is only used for mixture control, not to check the effeciency of the cat as in newer forms of FI. My SPFI converted Brat has no cat - I cut it open and gutted it then welded it back up. You drill a hole and weld in a nut to screw the O2 into. Takes 10 minutes. I think you are under the impression that the O2 is for emissions purposes - that is not correct. The O2 is used to fine tune the cruise mixture for optimum economy. It is not an emissions testing device. Generally on newer rigs they will use a secondary O2 sensor to determine the effeciency of the cat. That can almost always be deafeated by adding a spark-plug defouler between the exhaust and the sensor so as to pull it back out of the exhaust stream a ways. But that's academic as the SPFI uses only the simple single O2 system. MS can run the SPFI, but for most purpose the stock ECU is fine - not to mention cheap. EGR can be left alone. The SPFI has a solenoid for it, but otherwise cannot sense what it's doing. Leaving the solenoid hooked up will prevent a CEL but replacing it with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor will do the same thing. The ECU is dumb on the subject of the EGR and Purge solenoids. It mearly wishes to see a resistance - it cannot tell if they are working and doesn't care anyway. GD

That's what he said. There were no 2WD GL 4 speed's so that is implied in the statement. The 2WD's were 5 speed's in GL trim - only in STD trim were the FWD's equipped with 4 speed's. GD