GeneralDisorder

No. GD

Won't fit without modifications. The transmission tunnel sheet metal is physically different and larger. Of all the tunnels the 2WD 5 speed was the smallest. My lifted wagon had that console originally. I swapped it for the 4WD stuff. GD

88 and 89 are the years you want to swap from. Older transmissions do not have the neutral switch for the fuel injection. Loyales (90 to 94) never came with D/R. It was specifically a GL feature. It's an easy swap. Applicable threads are any having to do with EA82's. They are all basically the same from 85 to 94. This has been covered many, many times. GD

Nope. The EA82's locks are part of the door handle while the EA81 locks are seperate. GD

He is likely correct on that. I checked my EA81 heads, and despite my thinking that they also said E71 on them the casting indeed reads E81. I beleive you are safe in assuming those are EA71 heads. An intresting find as those engines aren't particularly common anymore. Only used in the STD hatch after 81 if I recall correctly. GD

As I said they look so similar as to be nearly indistinguishable unless you look closely at the diameter of the inside seal surface, and the compressed length of the whole axle. But you have to compress both of them to check the length. They will bolt up but are real hard to make fit properly when it comes to connecting the control arm. EA81's and EA82's share the exact same knuckle design, and the same transmission spline count - even the front wheel bearings are the same part number. The length is the only real difference. GD

It's bad on the distributor ignitors to use these "performance" coils. Stick with OEM as there is nothing to be had in the way of performance here. Only a potential for failure with a cheap mexican coil and an expensive, hard to find distributor ignitor. GD

EA81 carb pistons are 8.7 GD

Make sure the y-pipe to mid-pipe lead donut is in place and the proper spring loaded bolts are being used for that interface - it's designed to allow movement, but the sping & bolt setup often gets replaced when people can't get an old donut to seal, or they are cut off because of rust. Make sure that the rear y-pipe hanger is present and firmly attached to the transmision. You can use a peice of rubber between the pipe bracket and the mounting bracket to allow some flex. Use only OEM gaskets for the exhaust port flanges. Use the specified torque values using new stainless steel nuts, lock washers, and flat washers, and NEVER let the exhaust hang from the studs as it stresses the threads in the head. If you need to you can tap the holes in the heads over to 7/16x20 and use studs of that size. If you clean it all up and attach it correctly it should never come loose or leak. GD

Yes. I've done many. See this thread - same bearing part number, same procedure to replace. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82958 You can also replace the whole control arm from any 4WD EA81. They are all the same. GD

Sounds like you may have got some EA82 parts mixed up in there. The axles look very similar and will bolt in, but the EA82 axle is longer, and has a different diameter on the sealing surface for the inside of the knuckle. That's my best guess anyway. And it's happened to people before. I still get confused when I pull out a mystery axle from the depths of the garage. Have to compare it to one I know the origin of. GD

Very cool. You guys are legendary around here. Lots of old school Subaru folks have used your products in the years I've been here. Been meaning to get one for an EA81 myself. I'll have a look at my heads in a few also. What Subaru's do you own? Any promotional vehicles? GD

I think those are going to be EA81 heads. But I will have to look at a set in my garage to be sure. If you could post a pic we could tell you instantly.... Incidentally - do you work for Delta Cam? Just curious.... GD

Can't lose for free. And Calebz is probably right. It's just overkill is all. But if it's just *somthing* for exhaust you are after and not performance, then yeah - I say at least mock it up and see if it will go on. GD

Well - There's an aftermarket STi exhaust on the 91 Sport Sedan in my driveway. It's a full catless turbo-back though and the 91 is a turbo car as well.... But if the midpipe bolts up to the y-pipe on your legacy then I don't see why you couldn't get it to work. The STi exhaust on the SS runs right down the exhaust tunnel. The muffler is at the wrong angle and the lasy pipe section needs to be replaced with a straight pipe on mine, but it's not horrifically drastic. You realize that the STi exhaust is WAY too big for a non-turbo EJ22 though right? You need *some* restriction for scavenging. Personally I wouldn't bother as it's probably going to net you zilch in the performance department, and is going to need modification. GD

You can get rid of some of the AT (automatic) related wires if you use a manual ECU. If you can live with some codes, and a CEL that's on most of the time some of the others can go without causing "limp" mode, but there's very few overall, and having a functioning CEL is more than worth the few extra wires to be run. Since you are dealing with a self-diagnostic ECU you really can't remove anything without it complaining about it, and get it to throw enough codes are you are bound to hit some sort of default map for ignition or fuel. Sadly there is no way to know how many or which ones could be safely disconnected without causing a performance issue as we have no way of looking inside the ECU. If it was me I would be using MegaSquirt. But that's me. GD

Depends on the year. Carbed should be close enough to work with some rewiring for 85/86 flapper MAF. Totally different for 87+ hot wire MAF. Cannot be made to work in any way as these have Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) distributors, not hall-effect. GD

+1 But people are scared to do this. Head gaskets have been blown up to such mythical proportions that just the mention of them makes people run for the hills. Funny how a head gasket job has never cost me more than $100 and an afternoon. Not to mention the security of knowing it's done right, and with quality parts.... They are *just* gaskets afterall . GD

I have no doubt you could. Cut a notch in that last crank pulley groove and wrap a pull-rope around it. Might be the antichrist to start that way when it's cold though. GD

Vacuum leak at the carb base or primary throttle shaft would do that. Incorrectly operating accelerator pump might do that. Basically the carb is having difficulty transitioning from the idle circuit to the slow speed circuit. GD

The "main" and "auxiliary" diaphragms in that picture above are for the choke pull-off mechanism. The vacuum line he is looking for is not in that diagram as it's part of the diagram for the carb itself. That is the diagram for the engine. He needs a cross-sectional view of the carb itself. But it's not that hard to find. Look at the back of the carb and it should be obvious. The hose is only 3" long. GD

The EA82 vacuum for the secondary throttle plate is ON the carb. It's a very sharply bent hose that's about 3" long and comes from the passenger side of the carb, and over to the secondary diaphragm on the back of the carb. It makes basically a 90 degree turn to do it, and they often crack because of this sharp bend. GD

They are called "vanity" plates for a reason. I'll bathe and generally wear deoderant.... if I don't ill offend myself.... but the woman, and everyone else is generally lucky if I do anything more. I shave a couple times a week just because it itches. I guess appearances just aren't my bag. Vanity plates have never crossed my mind - for one I wouldn't want to give the state more of my hard earned money for them. They get enough as it is. GD

I couldn't recall if they fit either way or not. I suspect that some trimming might be required if you are going one way, and none is required if you go the other..... but I wanted it to be known. GD

No, it's not an SS scoop. Ask Calebz - that's his car afterall. GD