GeneralDisorder

At 16, have you considered that you probably should just get a halfway decent newer car and enojoy being young and able to go out, get to work, and have fun without wrenching on someone's 20 year old, aneamic, problem child of a turbo car? You should buy a lightly used legacy wagon, make a small car payment, build your credit and go look for some hot chicks to fill the cargo area with. GD

You can plug all those extra coolant passages - they were there to heat the base of the carb. Not really needed in a warm climate. As for the EGR - just whack the valve portion off the cast iron base and weld the actuator pin hole from both ends = instant, free block off plate. GD

You can replace the valve with a 33 Ohm 5 watt resistor for about $1. Just plug the two vacuum lines going to the valve with bolts. It will shut the ECU up and won't affect anything else. GD

Should - you were losing about 14 degrees of max timing advance, and about 8 degrees of retard at idle. Plus the ECU was in "test mode" all the time which runs a higher level of diagnostic functions continuously. GD

I can't possibly imagine a new radiator lasting any less than 10 years+ in CA. That's just silly. 3 years isn't long enough for any damage to occur if you never changed the coolant even once. What makes you think the radiator is history if I might ask? GD

You need to learn to spend your money more wisely. You live in WA, and that means you have access to junk yards FULL of part. $100 for a muffler is just stupid - you can get them on ebay for $20, and my last one came from my local yard for $6 and appears to have been recently replaced (shiny, no rust, etc). Same goes for the alternator, CTS, ect. With all the soobs in the yards here in the NW, it's almost a sure bet that I can find recently replaced "maintenance" parts for anything I need. People like you spend their way into a hole and then give up and send them to the yards where I reap all the benifits - buying your $80 alternator for $15, someone else's new water pump for $5, and some other guy's muffler and tip for $6. It's pretty obvious when the engine has 200,000 miles of grease on it, and a shiny water pump with brand new RTV. Only thing on there I would have bought would probably be the radiator and if anything I would have spent MORE on a double row, monster unit. Turbo's don't like the heat. I've owned 2 EA82T's, and likely I'll never have another unless someone gives me one for free. GD

They are just locating pins - don't worry about them. One is more than enough - if it were me I would pull the other one out too. Those things are a pain in the butt. GD

You are just hearing the SPFI computer cutting the injector on and off - it does this under coasting conditions to save fuel. One of the reasons the SPFI is more economical for city driving than the carbs is the computer can just shut the injector down under closed throttle coasting. On a carb the engine vacuum will continue to pull fuel through unless you have some sort of (complicated) coasting relief system that can detect closed throttle, high RPM conditions - but even then they aren't 100% because the carb just isn't "smart" enough, and the systems are complex. GD

Nope - you don't have vac advance. GD

They look something like this: If they are already connected then your timing will be locked at 20 degrees, so yes your performance will suck. GD

No need to reset anything. The 02 can't be detected on initial startup by the ECU as it doesn't begin reporting accurately till it reaches about 575 to 675 degrees. If you are getting a code as soon as you start it, then it's probably the purge solenoid. Here's some info: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html GD

Yuckies. Yeah - I would blow out the PCV passages with compressed air, and probably (if it were me) take the top off the carb and blow that out too. Same with vacuum lines, etc. Acid is a bad idea - there's too many plastic parts you would harm inside the carb. GD

Clean all your grounds - this is a common problem. GD

Not with the engine out of the car. You can thread a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel and put a prybar across the bottom bell-housing studs too. I don't like doing that as it can damage the threads, and bend the PP bolt. The rope techinique is 100% safe, and always works without danger of dropping things in your clutch. GD

It's not that simple. First it has to fit. Here you deal with lots of variables - transverse or not, etc. And some engines are just NOT going to work with the subaru transaxle without serious machine shop work to the flywheel/clutch assembly. Next is engine/tranny mounts - if you have a welder and a torch not a huge deal to make something work usually. Now you have to figure out the fuel system - FI vs. carb have different requirements, and you are talking diesel which depends on more factors - what type of injection pump the deisel uses, etc. Electrical is another problem entirely. Then getting all the stuff to work - temp, oil pressure, etc. All these little headaches add up to a lot of time and energy..... a LOT. I spent an entire afternoon just designing new transmission mounts for my 4 speed in my wagon - and I wasn't even changing anything. Sure - technically almost any engine could be put in - if you want to spend a year of weekends doing it. GD

If you wait, the TO bearing will seize, and wear right through the pressure plate. Then you will have to replace both. More $$$ GD

If you are enterprising and can get it reasonably, someone will probably want the engine cross-member and power steering rack. PS was not even an option on Brat's (except it was standard on turbo's), so you could sell that bad boy on ebay as a "Brat power steering rack". It will bolt straight up for anyone without PS. Grab the pump and it's bracket with the belt idler and you have a complete "Brat power steering coversion" setup. GD

Yeah - sorry that no one mentioned that, but not a lot of folks around here anymore with the in-depth EA81 knowledge. :-\ Things that are relatively trivial on the EA82 are a huge hassle on the EA81's - like the auto to manual, or 2WD to 4WD. GD

Intake gaskets - use dealer gaskets ONLY (graphite/metal, not the cheap cardboard junk gaskets), and they are dry installed. Wire wheel the manifold so it's nice and flat (shiny metal) before you torque it down. 12 ft/lbs ONLY and make sure the bolts are wire brused and coated in anti-seize. Knock the old pilot bearing out with a ball-peen or a brass drift, and then carefully install the new one till it's just flush with the tranny side of the flywheel. Tap it in gently hitting only the very outer edge so as not to damage the race. GD

I've done it for short runs - ATF has just about an a$$load of detergents in it - it's more or less the same thing as MMO, just cheaper. Works great to run full ATF in a manual trans for 100 miles or so - cleans up the varnish on the syncro's real nice. GD

No - the inhibitor switch was in the old auto shifter. The wires from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid are interrupted by this switch, and you must jumper the two back together or it will not crank. The clutch switch is probably (almost certainly) for cruise control which I'm guessing the donor car had. It's also not a large enough switch to handle the crank circuit draw. As caboob mentioned - three LARGE bolts each for the plates, and the radius rod nut itself. I don't think the rod's are different, just the plates. GD

If Nancy can stop crying long enough to read the directions on the box. Summers Eve FTW. :cool: GD

Pulley? As in the crank pulley? Remove the #1 plug, and with the piston at the bottom of the bore, thread about 10 feet of 1/4" nylon rope in to the cylinder. Then go to town the bolt with a breaker bar. GD

Just leave the plate out - looks like maybe that bell-housing was clearanced for an EA82 flywheel - that's approximately where the grinding is needed to fit one.... but that's just a guess. Someone else's core may have been mated to a 5 speed D/R..... or it could be a JDM artifact of some kind. Not typical, but not totally unusual. Or you could swap your bell-housing over to the new engine if you really want the cover. It's just those few bolts, and about 6 on the oil pan. Put the new rear main seal into your old bell-housing and call it good. GD

You have a 20 year old turbo car - stop whineing and learn to wrench. It was reliable enough to make it 20 years and into your hands..... Stop blaming the car for your inadequacies. The car is as reliable as you make it, and maintain it to be. If you feel you can't hack it, then make car payments, get a warrantee, and leave us without your negative attitude. GD