GeneralDisorder

Their site claims that, yes, but it's apparently not very accurate. I believe it was Junkie that told me he called them and they weren't able to locate him a set.... but that could just be the 205's on a 14 rim. 215's on a 15 like I'm running might be easy to get - not sure. GD

Only one engine came in that car - the EA82. '87 is probabaly SPFI, but could be carbed as well (last year for carbed EA82's). GD

Brat's aren't as rare as you think - they built about 110,000 of them for the US market from 77 to 87.... And they are as common as dirt in a lot of other countries - Isreal got a ton of them - mostly 2WD tho it seems. And they were sold brand new until '94 in some select markets. Till '92 in Austrailia. GD

I agree Zap, but it's a Gen 1, has a real nice newish paint job, and a near perfect interior..... it's just too dang nice, and there are plenty of beat up rusted Brats that would be even better for off-roading. Beating the hell out of a 1600 single range just because "it was made for it" doesn't make it right. This one's been almost fully restored and it just isn't right to smash it up. Rally-x would be fine, but not with a lift.....we've all seen what can happen to body lifted rigs at a rally-x. Mine will see some rally-x action too - I'm not afraid to get it dirty, but only when I decide it's ready..... it's far from ready yet Getting closer every day. GD

The Khumo's are different, but equally nice. I've always wanted to try those, but availibility doesn't seem real good. GD

Well - It's not a V8, but my parents have a couple Ford's van's with some monster V6's - the one has a 4.0 (244 ci) V6 that can MOVE. Basically, it's a bored and stroked 2.6L..... pushrod engine with a timing chain (I like!). Pushing 155 HP and 220 ft. lbs. of torque. The engine seems nearly bulletproof - they bought it new, it's got 230k on it with fairly regular maintenace (maybe every 7k - not religiously), has never had ANY engine work done and will peel out on command. The low end grunt is considerable.... I would think it would make a nice swap for a t-case modded rig, similar to what Unhatched had at one point (Chevy V6?). There's like 3 million of them on the road - they came in Explorers, Aerostars and Rangers. Only bad point I could see is they are cast iron, and probably a little on the heavy side. GD

If Ben even considers off-roading that white Brat I'll personally come up there and slap him up. And I'll probably have a posse behind me waiting to get their kicks in.... GD

Strong within this one, the funnay is..... GD

I don't get it.... where's the Mud? :-\ GD

Who invited the Klan? GD

I know without a doubt it won't work. The C/W looks nothing like that. It's got a really ugly mounting surface - irregular shaped for one - coolant passages heating the carb base and all that goop.... Take a look at any diagram. Not to mention it's rare, and a perfectly good, plentiful manifold already exists that has an adaptor made by redline - the Hitachi. If anyone wants one, I've got like 4 or 5 extra..... The C/W will always be the redheaded stepchild of the EA81 carb world - living alone in junk yards, sheds, and dead soobs. GD

The Matco one is only like $8 or something... but it sounds like you got a good deal. GD

Look for another tranny. Pretty sure I know where you could get one pretty cheap if you want another 4 speed. And the one from my Brat will be up for dibs at some point. Nearly all of them have some quirkyness, but it sounds like your syncro's are gone. The one in my Brat grinds slightly into second, but other than that is perfect. The one in my wagon grinds slightly on the downshift to 3rd, but other than that is fine - go figure. Rebuilding it isn't really possible without a lot of transmission knowledge, and some special tools... GD

Yeah - I think Cooper makes the Wildcats too.... this is starting to make some sense.... heh. On the other hand, if it's not your daily, you can get the Bias-Ply Interco Swampers for dirt cheap - I've seen em for like $89 a tire for the smaller lifted soob sizes.... Don't be sleepy when you drive tho - the howl will put you over the edge. Tough as nails. Like driving on rocks with the corners knocked off. GD

Wow - that is replete with the suckage. I totally believe you that it can happen tho. My friends 98 Audi came from Wisconsin - the rust was something else. We took the lug bolts (yes - bolts - it's a VW thing I guess) off and the wheel was rusted on. We had to drive down the street with the bolts loose and slam the brakes on a couple times to dislodge them. GD

If you block it off, you may need to move to a different temp of plug to prevent them from being burnt. The combustion temps will be significantly higher at cruise and if sustained for long periods (trips on the freeway) you could end up with white plugs. You may also notice a decrease in the cooling system effeciency at cruise. Make sure your cooling system is up to snuff before trying this. This includes good oil pressure, as the Subaru engines are nearly as much oil cooled as they are water cooled. Might have to switch up to 20w50 if you haven't already..... There's a lot of consideration that should be put into a change such as this - I personally leave it be. It doesn't rob power, it helps emmissions, and keeps the engine cool under certain circumstances - so what's not to like? You should definately give the EGR valve a good cleaning now and then tho. GD

Take that scissor jack and chuck it out into the neighbors yard. Get yourself at least a bottle jack ($10 or so) and in the front use the leading rod plates for either side, or to jack up the whole front use the engine cross-member right behind the skid plate. In the rear use the rear diff. Always make sure your parking brake is set, and NEVER jack on hill. As for the jack stands - in the front use the lower control arm mount at the cross-member, or one of the frame rails. In the rear use the frame rails. You can add a metal or wooden shim (1/4" thick at most) to prevent damage to the frame rails. GD

The problem with the Sear's set you linked to is that the E10 in that set is a 3/8" drive, and won't fit into the stub axle.... I've found tons of E10's for sale online and locally, but was unable to locate any other dealers that carried the 1/4" drive E10. It's extremely thin wall, and I went with the Matco because it's impact rated - those suckers can be a real beotch to break loose..... GD

1/4" drive E10 torx socket..... Snap-On and Matco are the only places I know you can get one. I like the Matco because it's impact rated - Matco part#A10XRA GD

Those are probably just a rebrand of something more familair..... they appear nealy identical to a Les Shwabb Wildcat EXT..... which is a great tire (my only problem with them is thin side-walls.... only 4 ply.). If you can get the 215's cheaper than about $110 each mounted an balanced than you can beat Les.... Keep us updated and find a dealer! My current tires are the Hankook RT01.... basically a similar design, but cheaper, and they have a 6 ply design like the BFG MT's. Haven't punctured one yet, and they only cost me $99 a tire mounted and balanced. The price wasn't really the object, it was the ply rating that swayed me.... just for comparison - Interco Swampers are 10 ply. Considerably more expensive tho. GD

What is this "rust" you speak of? In Oregon, we have nothing like this.... GD

DOH!

Wrong bolt pattern. GD

I for one will NEVER buy another remaned axle. They suck - period. The reason is that no remanufacturer ever replaces the outboard housing and the inner race. They replace the cage, and the ball bearings and repack them with grease. This technique may be fine for most brands of axles, but with Subaru in particular it seems to shorten their life span considerably. Remanufacturers are in this to make money - end of subject. If they replaced all the parts with new ones all the time, then they wouldn't make any. And with BRAND NEW axles costing only $89 from Autozone, and the ability to return them locally using only your phone number, a lifetime warrantee, and a guarantee of getting 4WD axles (since they fit the 2WD's, GCK only makes the 4WD axle)...... it really seems a no brainer. Why waste your time for a mere $25?? On a stock rig, assuming the boot remains unbroken, or is replaced and the axle properly filled with grease in a prompt fassion, you should get a good 80 to 100 thousand miles from an axle. The last remaned unit I installed lasted about 10..... GD

Yep - you have the right idea now. I would sugest having freak help you with removing it as it's rather tricky and the bolts tend to snap off in the head - they get rusty from exposure to coolant. GD