GeneralDisorder

Yes - clean it. It reduces combustion temps, and will prevent burned plugs and valves. The rubber hose that connects it with the anti-afterburn valve (if equiped) gets hard from age, and can get clogged with carbon too. If the valve gets really dirty it can stick in the open position and cause a huge vacuum leak..... GD

I use a copper or brass hammer, and smack the axle - this slightly pushes the axle out of the knuckle, but it will suck back in once you torque the axle nut. I highly reccomend a soft faced hammer for this type of work if you do it often (I can't even count the number of axles I've done...), and they are only about $10-$12 at Harbor Freight.. GD

Same problem here - never have figured it out. I swapped the cluster and it didn't help, so it's not in there..... GD

Pull the cluster, and yank the bulb out. Never have to worry about it again..... GD

Man - I must have been tired - what I meant to say is that there are no differences in the part numbers for each model..... ie, there is no distinction made between a cam destined for a Brat, versus one meant for a coupe. The various models of engine's have different numbers as Qman pointed out..... I would guess the EA71 and the EA71 hydro-lifter have different cams as well. GD

Well - I can say that the parts manuals I have make no distinction between Brat's and any other EA81.... there is only a single part number listed for the cam, for both the EA71 and the EA81. GD

The more grease the better! It becomes a lot thinner when the bearings heat up, so you want as little air in there as possible. GD

The steel they are stamped from is extremely thin compared to a truck rim - I think it would be foolish to use a spare rim when perfectly good rims can be had at the junk yard for nearly nothing. Lots of people have tried this, and there's a reason you don't see people using them. They bend easily - no good for off-roading. Get some chevy or yota 6 lug steels and drill them. I did mine with a hand drill.... really not hard at all. Usually rims are $10 or less at used tire places, or junk yards. GD

If the engine is deiseling (still trying to run after being shut down), it could be a problem with the anti-deiseling solenoid on the carb. Could also be an indication that the engine is running too hot, or the timing is off. Weber's do not have anti-deiseling solenoids, and with proper tuning can be made to run without deiseling except in the hottest weather..... a good cooling system, and proper timing is key. If it's just vibration, have a look at the engine mounts - the rubber int them is pretty thick, and they don't usually go bad, but one could be loose..... GD

No problem guys - look for more pages of this quality in the near future. Mostly geared towards the EA81 off-roading crowd, but I'm sure a lot of it will be applicable in a generic way. Check out our pictures and video's too: www.Atlas4x4.com GD

I'm working on a bunch of tech pages at Atlas4x4.com - this is just a preview, but since you are looking for what I just completed a page on, here ya go.... http://home.comcast.net/~cropperr/axle_rebuilding.html GD

It also requires a different manifold, and some of the carter/weber's were feedback...... I don't know enough to say if this one was or wasn't because as Ed pointed out - they suck. Really tough to find parts for too. GD

Hhhmmm - a picture perhaps? GD

Not on a solid lifter. These clearances are done cold. At operating temp, there really shouldn't be any clearance to speak of. Expansion of the valve train components wouldn't change with a different cam grind. But one must ask why you would have a cam ground for an EA81 solid lifter? Why not get a hydro lifter EA81 to begin with? GD

EA81 solid lifter. GD

It's normal for the oil pressure to drop at idle. Also the guage, and the sending unit are not that accurate. Replace the sending unit if it's leaking, change the oil pump seals or possibly the whole pump, and run 20w50 (I prefer chevron myself). GD

The capture nut that the bolt threads into has likely come un-welded from the sheet metal of either the lower radiator support cowling, or the engine cross-member (you didn't specify which end of the skid plate has the stripped bolt). This is a common problem for any mechanic, and a good knowledge of how to repair stuff like this is an essencial part of knowing how to work on your own equipment. You have a couple options - first, trying to grab the capture nut with some vice grips is a good start - if you can do that, you ought to be able to turn the bolt out. If that doesn't work, then you can either drill the bolt head off with a bit slightly larger than the diameter of the thread, or cut it off with a die-grinder. As for replacement, if you can get in there and weld in a new capture nut, that would be ideal, but probably too much work, and maybe not even possible to get to easily. Putting a new bolt and nut in there is possible if you can hold the other end while threading in the bolt, but you may have to resort to a large sheet metal screw instead. If it's on the front cowling, removing the radiator will give you better access to the capture nut location, and if it's on the cross-member, you should be able to get your fingers up in there - probably a needle-nose vise grip too.... GD

Gads! That's too much money. You could have purchased a rust free, low mileage wagon of the same vintage from WA or OR, and had it shipped to your door for less than that - probably two of them. I'm sorry that you got rooked. Next time come here and ask us. GD

Yep - EA82 axle joints (deeper), and a 1" body lift to correct the camber, and help the angle of the axles. This is only the rear, you still need a body lift in the front. But that's just 10 peices of sqaure tube, extend the steering linkage (there's a couple ways), and the strut towers. Really not that hard to build. All you really need is a chop-saw, a die grinder and a drill. And of course some time. Just get your car up in the air, and start experimenting. THEN ask questions here. If you aren't willing to do that, then buy a PK lift. They are good for people that don't want to do all this fiddling. My wagon isn't even staying at the height it is now - I'm going MUCH higher with a transfer case, and completely custom front and rear suspension. The experimentation never stops. If you just want to play around I say stick with the PK stuff. GD

Factory spec is 23-27. I get about 25-27 depending on how much my foot is in it. The 4 speed, and the 3.9 diff don't help mileage at all. You'll never get much over 30, and even that is stretching it. GD

You don't need a PK lift with the EA82 coils. The coils will give you all the lift you need. GD

There sure are a lot of misconceptions about the rear EA82 coil-overs on an EA81. No - the droop of the rear suspension is enough to pull the axles out of their joints.... that enough droop for you? I was going to make limiting straps till I discovered the EA82 axle joint mod. It doesn't really make it much stiffer either - since the torsion bar is unloaded, the vehicle weight is supported entirely by the coil. And with bigger tires that have more offset, you need a stiffer suspension to counteract the added leverage they have. I also have over 15" under my rear diff - something the PK lifts can't even come close to on a wagon (Brat's are different). And I'll keep saying this - as someone who has run off-camber in the rear for quite some time now, it really isn't that bad. The tires don't turn like in the front, so the camber doesn't really affect it all that much. The slight difference in wear can easily be dealt with by simply turning the tires over when you do a rotation. Cranking your front struts up that extra 1" will wear the tires 1000% faster than a coil-over in the rear will. I flattened my camber because I keep breaking axle from over-extension (because of all that droop I have). GD

Pull a plug, and fill the cylinder with nylon rope - make sure it's on the compressions stroke. Remove bolt. Remove rope. GD

Brat's were sold from 77 to 87 in the US, with a major redesign in 82. 77-81 are refered to as "Gen 1", and 82-87 are "Gen 2" All 77-81 Brat's used the 1.6L EA71 engine, with the exception of the 81 GL, which contained the 1.8L EA81 and the new dual range 4 speed. 82-87 all have the EA81, and either the 4 speed dual range in the case of the GL, or the 4 speed single range in the case of the DL. DL's did not have T-tops either. There's a lot more to it than that - I sugest a search, and a lot of reading on this board. GD

If you clock the torsion bar down, you will need longer shocks, or mount extenders. It will also move the wheel forward in the wheel well, and will look "funny" like my wagon does. If you are going for looks, I would reccomend blocks. Have a chat with PK - he could probably make you a 2" kit easy enough. GD