GeneralDisorder

You have (I think) a 1 barrel Carter/Weber. The Hitachi only came as a 2 barrel. In order to fit the DGV or the DFV you will need the intake manifold from a Subaru that came with the Hitachi. No one makes an adaptor (including Cameron) for the manifold you have, so if you want a Weber, it has to go. GD

Remaned CV's suck - I've even heard of ones that were shipped without any grease..... GD

Difficult due to completely different wireing, and differeing sending units. You need an analog cluster, analog fuel sending unit, analog temp sending unit, and an analog oil pressure sending unit (you don't have one at all right now, nor the wiring for it). You also need wireing diagrams for both types (FSM is the only place you'll find them I'm afraid), and a LOT of patience. It can be done, but it's nearly impossible to get it totally working in every respect. It would actually be much easier to install after market guages for everything. GD

DFV series - good for EA82's (on EA81's the DGV works fine), but you have to watch the venturi sizes - they are smaller than the DGV's. Other than a few minor differences like that, they are essencially a mirror image of the DGV. GD

Hhhmmm - looks like this would be lots easier on an EA81 - no problems with space there..... Many other more difficult problems with fuel delivery tho. GD

Yeah - 3/16" pin punch, or an appropriate sized drill bit - but watch out as they explode if the pin doesn't come out easy. I've had drill bit bits embedded in my hand - that's the day I invested $8 in a real punch..... GD

Yeah - that's a tough procedure to find - the generic manuals don't cover it. Here it is from one of my FSM's (complete with crappy japanese translation ): (Note that you do this to the valves when they are in the slack position, with the cylinder you are adjusting at TDC on the compression stroke.... [and you don't need the silly tool - 6" crescent wrench works just fine]) a. Raise up the bend of the lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. b. Leave it with the valves opened for approx 15 minutes. c. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of the valve. This condition is called "Zero Point". d. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by another 1.5 turns. e. Tighten the lock nut and bend the lock washer. GD

Just remove the rear axle - two roll pins, and they slide right off (except for the rust of course). You don't need it to drive in 2WD. GD

Hate to inform YOU, but this is EA81 land, not Leganus land. EA81's are 4WD, not AWD, and thus still only have 2 axles pushing the car when in 2WD mode. Not to mention that EA81 axles are WAY thicker than any EA82 or Leganus axle. Besides that here's the data from the FSM: If you want more proof, I can take pictures of the 20 or so odd axles in various states of assembly in my garage.... I spend hours at the JY dissasembling them in the Subaru isle. My freinds have started calling me the "Axlemaster".

Well - it's not *just* axles that you could break - you might break a diff stub axle too. I doubt you would break the diff itself, but if you twist a stub axle in half, it could be really ugly to remove. The splines can get bent and lock themselves into the splines inside the diff. If you want to run on pavement, you need AWD. GD

I have had good luck with the GCK brand joints from Autozone. They are only $90, and have a lifetime warrantee. Plus they are NEW not remaned. And they are TRUE 4WD axles, not 2WD axles (smaller diameter shaft and smaller joint). I must say however that my friend bought a set and had serious vibration issues with his - not sure if it was just one of them or both. Others on the board, and myself have had good luck tho. And of course you can always return them. GD

Nope. GD

If the drivetrain is bound up, taking it out of 4WD (with the pushbutton) won't have any effect until the drivetrain is unbound again. Pavement + high speed + 4WD = good way to snap an axle. GD

How about making the trim strips as well, and selling them as a package deal? It wouldn't drive the shipping up at all I wouldn't think, and it would give the prospective buyer a complete overhaul package for their tailgate.... Also, if you could design the strip so that it does not need the plastic gizmo's to install it, that would be cool. Those are the reason the strip is so fragile to begin with. GD

Transmission does not mate to an EJ engine without an adaptor, so you either need an adaptor plate, or you need to transplant the EJ transmision as well. You can use a non-turbo legacy trans from a 2WD legacy. Of course none of this stuff will fit without a lot of modification...... GD

The dual range has three positions for the 4WD shift lever - 2WD, 4WD Hi, and 4WD Low. The Low range adds a 1.45:1 modifier to the output from the trans, making all gears lower. Think of the transfer case on a truck - same thing, but it's part of the tranny. I don't understand what you mean by "locking" 4WD - some EA82's had a lockable center diff, but nothing like that ever came on an EA81..... GD

I have no idea what the bolt pattern on the CW single barrel is. You're best bet is to get a Hitachi manifold instead - they are plentiful, and you can just grab an adaptor for $25 from bow-wow, instead of bugging cameron about making one for the CW manifold. Also we don't know for sure what carb you have - you need to have carfreak check to make sure of what carb you have on there now. We can't tell you the bolt pattern unless we know what carb you have now can we? GD

There were 5 tranny's availible for EA81's: 4 speed single range 4WD manual (3.9 diffs) 4 speed dual range 4WD manual (3.9 diffs) 3 speed single range 4WD automatic (3.7 diffs) 3 speed 2WD automatic (3.7 diff) 5 speed 2WD manual (3.7 diff) GD

All the EA81 crank pulley's I've seen were three groove (including the one on my '85 Brat). EA81's had up to 3 belts - Alternator/water pump, Power Steering, and A/C...... that being said, I know that PS wasn't offered until the 81 model year, so an EA81 from an 80 Automatic (only came in Auto's that year) might be different - I don't know that I've ever seen one of those personally. GD

Could just be that the axle stripped it's splines on the CV joint. Check to see if the axles are spinning with it in gear (raise the car off the ground first, so it can't possibly drive anywhere accidentaly). I've never done an axle replacement on a Justy, but from doing other transversely mounted FWD cars, and lots of normal Subaru's, it's probably not real hard. GD

Looks aftermarket whatever it is - with that silver label and all. GD

LSD's have been an option since the EA81 RX days (which incidentally, had rear discs and LSD's - but we didn't get EA81 RX's here in the US). They *could* be found under nearly anything of that vintage with a 3.7 rear end, but are most commonly found in 85-89 RX's, and in the Full Time 4WD 5 speed Turbo models of the later 80's vintage. Brat's most definately never had them stock, and being that only the 4WD Automatics had the proper ratio rear end for the LSD, I doubt it was even an option at the dealer. Although one could certainly bolt it right in. GD

There is no difference (between the carbs, or the bolt pattern), and the guy making your adaptor plate already knows the bolt pattern of a Weber. He probably wants to know the bolt pattern of your existing carb, which I think is a carter/weber single barrel. Ask carfreak to ID it for you. As for pro's/con's, there really aren't many, because the type of choke you use depends on what you want. Personally I like the electric choke because it's easier to install, and less messy. The water choke is much more accurate, as it's warming curve is controlled by the engine's temp, and not some arbitrary heating element. Other than that, the carbs are identical. GD

Unburnt fuel is not the problem - leaks in your exhuast, and a crappy cat are. You won't get rid of the unburnt fuel - at least not with a Hitachi. My Brat had the exact same problem, and it was a bad cat, and exhaust leaks combined with the ASV's that caused it. Mine was so loud and hard, that it blew about 5 fist sized holes in the muffler. Once I repaired the leaks and replaced the cat (used y-pipe), it passed emmissions no problem. GD

I've put an EA81 FWD 5 speed into a 4WD body - it goes right in. There's no clearance issues like going the other way, and the stud for the shifter assembly is already present. No problem at all. It will even work with the same clutch, as the splines are the same too. You can just leave the rear end - just unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. GD