GeneralDisorder

Certainly has all the characteristics of a broken passenger side timing belt - rapid loss of power, but still running on two cylinders. It will not hurt your engine, but I would certainly have a talk with the retards that improperly installed it - assuming that is the problem. Difficulty in turning the engine over could be because all the valves for cylinders 1 and 3 are closed perhaps...... GD

Not only will it be tough to weld, as Qman points out, but it will ruin your paint, and probably warp the thin sheet metal roof, which is not corrugated at all..... GD

Severe overheating can cause those nasty noises you heard - pre-detonation of the fuel causes the severe knocking. My Brat did that when I lost all my coolant from a failed heater core hose. After I let it cool and made the repair, it started right back up and drove away as if nothing had happened. You have probably at least cooked the seals in the oil-pump. You should replace them, and maybe the oil pump too. GD

Are you sure it didn't just overheat? Thin oil could cause the guage to not register, and severe overheating could cause the engine to stop running. GD

What he said ^ GD

Just as a compare, I had a Gen 1 (EA71) 78 wagon up to 85 MPH with an automatic. So all you EA81 types should be able to beat that at least..... even my lifted wagon can beat that. GD

Go ask in the new gen - we have no idea here..... GD

If you want more up/down travel, then an axle built using front DOJ cups from an EA81 or EA82 would certainly do that. The joint is physically larger in diameter, and will allow for greater angles, but unfortunately doesn't fit the splines on the rear axles shaft. If you can find joint parts to fit the cup and have the same spline's as the shaft (call up cvaxles.com perhaps?) you would have an awesome axle for pretty cheap. Being larger in diameter also means they can handle more stress...... I may end up having some stubs made from chromolly. Either that or use a modified Datsun Z axle with 510 stubs, or a datsun R180 diff..... GD

So what part of my post didn't you understand then? I give up...... GD

About 135 HP, and they run forever. But unless you make an adaptor, you need the transmission too - which unfortunately didn't come as a D/R here in the states. GD

Why do you want to get rid of the torsion bar? Unless you are planning some really amazing rear drivetrain changes (like I am, lol), the axles won't handle even what you can get out of the torsion bar setup. Believe me. You can fit some rear EA82 coil overs for about 3" of suspension lift, but without some changes to the rear axles, you will over-extend them at full droop. GD

They aren't as crazy as you think. Their engines are built for Aircraft not cars. An EJ engine is too heavy, and timing belts are NOT GOOD for a flying machine. RAM has a market sector that can support them at those prices, and when it's pay $7k for a tested, guaranteed, reliable engine or plummet 5,000 feet to certain death..... well.... you be the judge. GD

Sounds like a head gasket, or a freeze plug to me. Head gaskets aren't that hard..... maybe a 7 on the 1-10 scale. They are cheap enough (less than $20 each). Most of it is labor. You'll need a torque wrench to properly install them, but that's the only special tool really. Your manual should have a decent run down of the procedure. Make sure the heads aren't warped when you pull them off. If they are tho, you can have them milled flat again for about $35 each. GD

Yeah - the inner is the same as the outer - just a bad pic angle. Having to crawl under the car on gravel with a camera and greasy hands isn't easy. Here's a comparison shot of the two DOJ's - the left one is a stock rear EA81 DOJ cup, and the right one is a rear EA82 DOJ cup.... the EA82 one makes the EA81 axles stretch a lot farther.... Depending on how much extra stretch you need, you could use just one of the EA82 style cups, or if you need a lot of stretch, you could use them on both ends. GD

Ok - I took pictures of the EA82 here in the junk yard with DOJ's on both ends of the rear axles. It's an 86 wagon - build date of 01/86..... They are rusted on, or I would have pulled one for a better picture. Heck - if I could have gotten them off, I would have taken the cups from them..... I had to pull 4 of the other type of axles to get enough cups to make a set of EA81 "stretchy" axles. If anyone *really* wants them I could get them out.... or find another set. probably have to pound the spindle out of the wheel bearing, but they will come out. I've seen others like this too, and apparently from talking to Calebz about this, they aren't that uncommon. GD

I had my '84 wagon to 110 or 111 once on the flat and level (between Salem and Eugene on I-5) - the digi-dash speedo goes that high and more (140 I think). It was 2WD at the time, with a Weber. The 3.7 diff and the 5 speed really makes the difference. Had 175's on it too (stock for a 2WD). My Brat has seen 95 maybe 100. The gearing is such that without a better cam, you don't have enough power in 4th gear with a 3.9 diff to really get past that 100 mark. GD

I've got an EA81 apart on my bench, and I have an EA71 parts engine that I'll be taking the pistons out of in the next few months. Watch for a write up on this from me. I'll have pictures, and HARD data on piston heights from those two engines..... Decking the heads on an EA81 .020 will bring your compression up to ~9.12:1 near as I can figure. I'm hoping the EA71 pistons will bring it up to about 9.5:1..... GD

All of the bad DOJ's I've had caused massive vibration under acceleration. And didn't change much while turning. Stopped virbrating completely if you coast..... doesn't sound like your problem to me. Your problem sounds like a bad outer joint, or bad wheel bearings..... GD

Leak in your exhaust system. Try putting some quarters in the Air Suction Valve supply pipes - where they screw into the valves. GD

This is a good thread. I covered a lot of stuff in here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14472&page=1&pp=10 Basically, you just need to understand what each of the systems does, and go from there. But then once you understand all the systems, it's no problem to leave them in place. Removing them will not give you any more power - it will simply make your car smell like gas all the time. GD

Just look a the strut housing - you will see the notches and stuff on the outside near the bottom where it attaches to the trailing arm. GD

There is nothing different about a Baja compared to any other EJ engined Subaru, and yes - EJ engines have been put into Brats. Do some searches and you will find something I wager. As for Low Pro's on 20 inch rims - Sure - go with the 6 lug conversion, and swap anthing on that will fit a chevy or toyota...... don't run into me tho, cause I'll slap you. GD

Yep - the EA82 rear has no torsion bar, and thus no nut. You may or may not have adjustable rear coil-overs. Not sure about the RX's specifically, but many EA82's didn't have them (I use them on the rear of the EA81's for more suspension lift, and have trouble finding the adjustable ones sometimes). And many aftermarket designs don't either. So if they have been replaced, you may have to find some Subaru ones..... You have to remove and dismantle the strut to adjust them usually - since they are usually pretty stuck with dirt and crud. GD

If you pull an engine from a yard, it's $100 for a short block, or $150 for a long block (here in OR anyway - WA should be similar - except for the tax of course). Since it was ran out of oil, I would chuck the whole long block in the dumpster. Bad juju. Without oil, the whole engine is suspect. Grab a long block from a yard car - slap it in. Do the rear main seal and NOTHING else. If it runs good, go back in and do the rest of the seals and the timing belts. Otherwise, yank it and get another (free - yards give you a 30 day on used engines usually...). The head gasket problems are generally associated with the EA82 Turbo model - but of course anything can blow a head gasket given enough heat. GD

I would hope that after 40 minutes of driving the choke would be pulled off. Just the engine heat alone would do that. Still - pull off the air cleaner cover and check to make sure it isn't partially closed or something. Sounds to me like a bad accelerator pump in the carb. The accelerator pump squirts a small jet of fuel into the carburetor throat when the throttle plate is opened to allow the engine enough fuel to increase its speed to the point where the main circuit can take over. Pull the air filter housing off, and rev the engine by hand when it's in this "hesitation" mode - see if you can see the accelerator pump working - it's near the top of the carb, and will emit a pretty obvious stream of gas as you work the throttle..... More than likely, you need to do a complete carb rebuild. Hitachi's (I'm assuming you have a Hitachi - they are more common than the Carter/Weber) are notoriously difficult to rebuild but it can be done if you are careful and take your time. GD