GeneralDisorder

The gauge's and the sending units are both of questionable reliability. Check your temp with an aftermarket gauge, and see what you find. You may find that it's within normal parameters, and it's just the gauge thats whacked. Does the fan kick on when it's supposed to? You could get another fan if you have the electric already - or switch to two electric fans if you have the mechanical.... GD

So is your parking brake not working? The dust boot's do compress pretty far from what I have seen.... if it's working then I say let it be. If not, then I would say your caliper is worn out internally - there's a part inside called the "spindle" which acts in a similar fashing to a cam lobe in the engine - when you pull on the lever, the lobe pushes on the piston.... As to the brake pad replacement - what I do is remove the bleeder screw, and then screw the piston OUT a quarter to a half a turn. This helps to release the mechanism inside, and makes turning them back in a breeze. Then you just turn them all the way in, and re-insall with new pads - then bleed the front calipers... GD

Inner joints (which are Double Offset Joints, not technically CV's) are often to blame for harsh vibration, or strange noises that aren't "clicking". I had an inner joint so bad one time I thought the car was going to fall apart. Replaced axle - problem solved.... till the axle blew again because it was a crappy rebuild. I'm only buying new axles from now on.... GD

That I don't know - but I would try to find a 4.11 LSD from a legacy.... GD

That's just wrong. What kind of person would jack someone's floor matt? Must have been high on smack. It's not like they could sell em.... GD

Aren't Gen 1 Brat's 4.11? As mentioned here by Qman in fact: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12985&highlight=Brat+4.11 GD

I can tell you there is no difference in the jetting between EA81 and EA71 - because the part numbers of the kit from redline are the same. GD

So where is Fuji keeping all the EA81 race cars? I know that can't be all of their collection, cause the 1988 bonneville justy isn't present.... GD

Thanks for the good info Ed - I'll certainly look into that place in Tigard. Would like to see what they are all about... GD

I would so be there if you were on the left coast.... I do wish you luck tho. GD

"strike it with a mallet"??!? jeez - I done that, and didn't get any result. Guess I'll have to try a bigger mallet. GD

Right there on the page you linked it says: That indicates they don't use new parts.... which seems silly to me on a soob, where even new axles don't last that long. Maybe this works on other brands, but doesn't NEW axle parts sound better to you? GD

Hhhhmmm - ok, so at least I know I can send em down to Adam and have him take em in to the local "zone" and get my money back after I grenade them all over a local ORV park..... :lol: GD

I've been doing my homework on axles, and I've found that Autozone carries a line of new (as in BRAND NEW - not remaned) axles made by these guys: http://www.gck.com/ For $90 (no core charge since it's not a reman) you get a whole new axle. Apparently with a lifetime warrantee (limited - not applicable for off-roading..... but I'm not telling if you don't...) Now - I would like to hear any stories about this brand, or about Autozone's warrantee - do they honor it if they get back an axle that's muddy, and in 26 peices? etc, etc All the other companies I have looked at that rebuild axles are very careful to say in their "product descriptions" that they replace worn parts "if neccesary" and I don't particularly like that. While this approach may be fine for some parts, or for other brands of cars, my experience has been that skimping on even the slightest detail with axles will result in bad juju sooner rather than later for the most part.... Some searching around found these guys: http://www.raxles.com/home.aspx Who do reman axles, but they claim they use ONLY new outer joints. This certainly seems appealing, but with prices starting at $69, and shipping from florida, I can't see how I'm going to come in at less than a $90 *new* axle from Autozone..... Anyone got thoughts on this place? GD

Apparently the outer joints aren't serviceable - at least according to every manual I have read. I would like to know how they come apart... but even if I could get it apart I don't know where you would buy the parts to do a rebuild.... also, I can't imagine the rebuild parts being cheaper than a whole axle with all new parts in it anyway.. Pressed in sounds right - I tried beating on one, but couldn't make it budge. They are on there with something stronger than I can remove with my neanderthal techniques. Maybe someone else on the board knows the magic words to open one up.... anyone? GD

I'm sorry dude.... how come you can't? I'm curious. GD

They may be the same width, but the ER27 is longer - there's where your difficulty lies - and what will you do with the radiator? GD

205/75R15's will fit with a 4" lift and not much trimming. They are 26.65" outside diameter. You will have to beat down the body ridge under the fender wells to clear your tires for turning... GD

How much is shipping generally ed? Both directions..... Should be about the same for me - we are both about 3000 miles away from them... GD

If you have the nut and spring washer off, then the conical washer is what you are looking at. Rotate the hub around and look closely - you will notice there is a gap in the washer. It should be closed up since the conical washer is pushed into the hub right now. Take a flat screwdriver and a hammer, and hit the washer next to that gap - it's spring steel, so hitting it there will cause it to compress slightly, and help to unstick it from the hub. Basically, your there - you just need to whack the hub and that washer hard enough to dislodge them. Once that is done, the hub should slide right off. Also - you can try threading the nut back on the axle to protect the threads, and give the end of the axle a couple hard smacks with a small sledge. That will usually dislodge things too. You need to un-pin the inner joint, and pull it off the trans, and then the outer part of the axle can be slid out of the knuckle - sometimes this takes some smacking with a hammer and a block of wood, since it's usually pretty tight. I have seen ones that just slide right out tho... I just did an axle yesterday in fact - took me an hour cause I was going slow, and had to clean up the mess made by the old failed axle... GD

Does http://www.cvaxles.com have a warrantee on their axles ed? I'm seriously condsidering that route but I'm wary of not having a warrantee since as you know I'm lifted.... This canadian company "Mevotech" that was mentioned above does indeed have a redesigned outer joint - I have emailed them to find out more, and where I might get them in the US.... http://www.mevotech.com/ GD

When it gets really bad, you'll start to lose power, and the rotor on the shaft will smack the stator, and chew it down. Not good. GD

Buy a car that's already a manual 4WD, with the engine you want. Believe me, unless you have parts cars just hanging around your yard, you will spend more money and time converting it then just buying another. The EA82T is not a bolt in - yes, it will bolt to the tranny, and bolt down to the engine mounts, but that's about where the bolt in stops. None of the exhaust will work, or the wiring, or..... well much of anything really. The clearance on the frame rails is very tight - like 1/4" or less on each side... The auto to manual is not too dificult, and the capture nuts for the diff hanger are already present in the frame for the rear diff. You gas tank will need to be changed, as the 4WD tank is different. And the tranny tunnel may need beating or cutting to fit a 4WD tranny. The 4WD shifter mount does not exist on the 2WD tunnel, so that will have to be welded in too.... along with lots of other little things GD

Watch those autos - really crappy they are. I know of at least 3 that have torn themselves apart under 200k. GD

One 17mm nut holds the steering wheel on.... I can have one off, turned correct, and back on it less than 2 minutes. GD