GeneralDisorder

I'll add to this one. Some early Ford's used a VERY similar carb - it's actually a Weber 32/36 DFEV. Uses a different air cleaner (ovalish opening), but uses the same adaptor plate as the DGEV. There are some other slight differences, but the carbs even use the same rebuild kit. It's basically a mirror image of the carb, with a different air cleaner. The air filters (that look just like the ones we use for the DGEV) are availible through EMPI, and everything else should work. The early ford 2.3L engines found in rangers, and I think some pinto's had these stock from the factory. AND best of all, they are jetted correctly for our 1.8's (go figure - very crappy 2.3L I guess...). GD

Sorry - there's no way I can tell. I have no idea how many were produced with versus without. You can easily tell for yourself - just check under the drivers side dash for the computer. If you have a computer, then you have a feedback system - no computer means no feedback. Should be a black or gold box with a green or red LED on it. It will look very computerish..... I can tell you that of the selection of cars I have owned from 83 and 84 (I'm an EA81 guy), most were feedback. Even my friends 82 Brat had a feedback system. However - my 85 Brat is not...... just depends on where the car was originally sold. California cars are always feedback I believe. GD

Depends - if your car has a feedback carb, then no. The feedback control systems, which are a big part of the emmissions stuff, will no longer function. If on the other hand, you have a carbed car with no feedback system, then yes, it is completely possible to save all the emmisions equipment. Which amounts to the cat, and the AIS for live systems, and the evap canistor for the passive system. All of which can be kept. In my experience, running my Brat both with the AIS, and without, it didn't help matters much, in fact on the second run with a functional AIS, the HC's were actually higher. Go figure. Personally I could give a crap, and I'll pull it off just to stick it to the man when I get my P.O. box out in no DEQ country...... LOL GD

You an a friend can lift the engine out, and put it back in.... problem with the tranny is that it takes three people if you don't have a transmission jack to put it back in. It *can* be done with two people - using a rope around the tailshaft of the tranny, and closing that in the drivers door, but you still need someone to lift the front of the thing while you crawl under it, and manhandle it into place. I would pull the engine. Actually - if your good, you don't even have to pull the engine - on an EA81, you can simple pull it forward - with the radiator removed, there's enough room to pull the engine forward, and off the tranny. It's tight, but if your only replacing the release bearing..... should be able to do that without pulling anything. Just a thought if the clutch is still good. GD

Only $21 here - good for 2 years. Our stations are run by the state, and owned by the state. So what we have is a bunch of state employees that could care less about the visual. I could almost certainly get away with a Weber here. But I don't need to, as only *some* of our zip codes are within the testing area. I'm just getting a P.O. box out in an area without testing, and I'll be good. GD

Those are where the transmission fluid lines would go if you had them - as was stated above, it's a universal radiator, and those lines are not connected to anything in your cooling system - for the simple reason that you wouldn't want to mix coolant and ATF. These only apply to automatic tranny cars. GD

5 lug conversion comes from an XT6 ONLY. You have to swap all the brakes and the lower control arms etc - it's a lot of parts. Generally quite expensive too, since XT6's are pretty rare. GD

You can run the SPFI on a carb block - no problem there. In fact - there's at least one guy who has put the SPFI on an EA81. You will need to change the disty, and get the complete wireing harness / SPFI assembly from another car. The ECU has to be wired in, etc. It's certainly doable. Now as for running turbo on and SPFI..... it can be done at low boost levels. In fact the same EA81 that has the SPFI, also had turbo added later if I recall. Get a hold of rguyver - he's still around sometimes. He can tell you all about it. GD

Grind the "Weber" writing off the casting, and modify the stock air cleaner to fit. Paint the carb black to make it not stand out so much - run a bunch of vac lines around in dizzying circles all about the carb - they will never know the difference. Hell - I live in soob country, and the guy said my 85 brat didn't have an AIS. And my Brat has them on BOTH sides. These guys don't know diddly. And if they get wise at one station, just go to another. Not saying *you* personally don't know anything Russ - but the typical testing fob is not exactly a college grad - and if you run through enough times, you'll get one dumb enough to be to your likeing. And if you can't - I'm sure you can find one that will take a bribe. Grease a few palms - it works wonders. I'll tell you if I was working at that job, I would be taking some bribes for sure. And don't give me that crap about camera's - they can't hear what your saying, and it doesn't need to take place where a camera can see it. GD

Best theft deterrant on an old soob is to lift it. They take one look and move one - figureing that this guy is probably slightly unbalanced, and it would be a real bad idea to get caught by him.... In my case this is actually true - if I catch some tard trying to make off my stuff, there's gonna be hell to pay. As my drill seargent used to say - "keep stomping till the police arrive" I know - I'm just an unbalanced person - with some violent tendancies. But hey - it works for me. GD

Check your oil level - if it's too high, the crank can whip the oil and turn it foamy like that. White color means it's got moisture somehow - change your PCV as sugested, drain a refill - make sure you don't have too much oil - it's better to be too low (by a bit) than too high. GD

Poof - you get your wish! In a few weeks you will probably see lots of pics of my 84 with em - front and rear - rear with swing out tire carrier - definately a TWB exclusive! GD

Good lord - all you have to do is jack up the rear end, and turn one tire. If the other turns the same direction, it's an LSD. Or you can look at the sticker on the diff...... You don't have to swap the tranny - just the rear diff. It's pretty easy really. The hard part is converting a 3.7 LSD to a 3.9. But even that isn't that hard. GD

Yes - I did have noise actually - was a weird vibration/buzzing noise - accompanied by a big tach jump (7,000 at idle...), but it was a ND disty, and the noise came and went. I have never heard a Hitachi do that. And I have seen hitachi's with incredible amounts of wear on the shaft, still running along as if nothing had happened (with slight tach jump sometimes). Now your's is an EA82T, so your's could very well make different noises, etc. Especially since mine was on an EA81. It makes no difference tho - you can rebuild it just the same. Is there any play in the shaft? Any noticeable wear on the disty drive gear? GD

No need to replace the disty - it can be repaired. I got mine done locally for $55 - that included a rebuild of the vac advance. I think it was only $35 to have a new bushing put in. GD

Yeah - my last LSD was from an 89. I saw an 88 the other day - full package - GL-10 turbo 5 speed FT4WD. I dove under for the diff.... nodda - it was open. I didn't notice it was an 88 till after I got out from under it . I still look under all of them of course.... never know when you'll strike gold. GD

Not just for inflating tires - impact wrenches - basically, most small air tools. GD

There's a company that will convert it for you.... you have to send them your front diff. but basically, you have to dissasemble the transmission - not fun, and rather hairy. Some special tools are needed, and a manual is an absolute must. There's a couple of places where you must dissasemble in a certain order, or it all goes to hell in a handbasket rather quickly. (ie - dropping small parts down into no-mans land, then having to retrieve them by dissasembling MORE stuff in there..... bad times). As I understood it, 89 was the only year with *stock* LSD's. All other years were an option, and not all came with them. Except the RX of course. GD

You don't have to grind them at all. They will still pull up fine once you tighten them down. And unless your doing it for mags, drilling the rims is definately easier. Many, many people are running drilled rims, and put them through hell. I've never heard of one breaking, except from improper installation. GD

RainX kicks a$$. GD

Well - on many cars, doing things like this can be a problem because of the difference in the inner vs. outer bearings. If you change the wheel geometry either in or out (especially out tho), you will change how the wheel bearings are stressed. On a lot of cars, you will notice that the outer bearing is considerably smaller than the inner. By moving the wheel out, you put more stress on the small outer bearing, and this can cause failure. In some cases, it can cause the wheel to fall off. On soobs, this really doesn't apply to the front, which have the same size inner and outer bearings, and on the rear you *may* have the same inner and outer - or if you have the conical bearings on the rear, they are very strong, and the wieght of the rig - especially in the back, isn't enough to harm them. Fronts are usually the problem on other cars because of the weight up there, and the alternating loads from steering. As long as you don't have any rubbing issues with em, I say go for it. GD

The receiver hitch winch - yep - already been done. I'll be doing that on my bumpers he's making right now. The front is done, and can be seen on his web site - the one on the Gen 2 wagon.... GD

simple - pry the GL-10 label off, and say "look - by the VIN it's a GL" GD

Simple - you ask us. Answer - you don't have either one. Reason - No soob came with front, and rear's were 3.7 - your tranny is 3.9. Caleb - that's '89 GL-10 FT4WD Turbo 5 speed that has the LSD. It must be that year, and it must be turbo. GD

I know - I was just offering what I know - and that's EA81's - cause I don't like EA82's:moon:. At any rate - my point was that there is no hard and fast rule. GL-10's came with different stuff every year. LSD's were never a GL-10 option except on 89 full time 4WD 5 speed turbo's. Same with rear sway's - not a GL-10 option, but sometimes came on GL-10's. Also sometimes came on GL Turbo's. Same with LSD's - they were an option you could ask for on any car. Generally, 4WD turbo's had rear discs - that wasn't a premium option, it was standard for a lot of years. 2WD Turbo..... not sure on that one. Might have been an XT thing or something. The Scooby: Those were "options" on your car. Sure - they are factory, but Skip was talking about "standard" equipment for a GL vs. GL-10. Not optional equipment. GD