GeneralDisorder

Yep - I've heard some with HORRIBLE sounding lifters that run for years like that. It doesn't cause any damage really. Try some Marvel Mystery Oil - if that doesn't help then it's time for a new pump, or a reseal. For the cost and the time I would probably just get a whole pump - I think they are on the order of $60 or so... GD

1. You don't have to spend $320 for the 32/36 2. If you get a used one and rebuild it (or have a carb shop rebuild it for $50, and buy the adaptor and air filter, you'll still come in under $200, and you can't get a rebuilt hitachi, or a rebuilt carter - weber for this price. Also - rebuilding the Hitachi or the carter weber is not always possible due to primary throttle shaft wear. 3. Tons of aftermarket cool stuff for the 32/36 - like snorkel adaptors, manual choke kits, and filters.. 4. The 32/36 is completely tunable for modded engines - jet kits are cheap, and easy to install. I have been toying with the idea of using a 32/36 DFAV or DFEV from an early model ford - there's tons of these to be had in the JY - they use the same adaptor plate as the DGV's, air filters can be had online that look exactly like the DGV type for $15, and on top of that, the choke is on the other side so will not be close to the disty..... GD

Can't be as ugly as the one I'm going to pull out of a farmers feild..... GD

The battery tray area is just welded in I think. You can get one from another car (have to drill or cut the welds), and weld it in where yours was. Make sure to put a plastic tray on top of it to protect the new metal... GD

I suppose it depends on your winter - but yeah - I'm using it right now down to 15 degrees here - no problem - I'm sure it could go lower. The Subaru starters are very effective if you give em a good battery. GD

Yep - that's about normal for a used EA81. Sounds like it's got over 100k - to keep the OP higher - use a good brand of 20w/50. I like castrol - it seems to flow nice at low temps.... I have seen new EA81's (rebuilt from CCR) where the OP is at 50 at idle, and pegged while driving! And that's with 10w/30. After they break in, the bottom end gets sloppy (although for some reason, you hardly ever will hear any noises frorm this...), and lets the oil squirt out without reaching the top end - thus the lower OP reading... GD

On your EA82 - change your timing belts every 60k - they will blow like clockwork. If they do - no big deal - as these are non-interferance, but it will strand you. GD

Yep - it's easier to pull the engine to do the clutch tho - less lying on the ground! GD

The disty revurve is done to change the characteristics of the engine - where do you want the torque? Basically you tell them if you want the HP in the low range, or the high range. The curve in the disty tells when the timing will advance - low RPM's or high RPM's. EA71 pistons are ever so slightly different from EA81 pistons. They add more compression. Not a whole lot on their own, but they are part of a larger scheme of increasing the compression. The stock compression is 8.7:1. With the EA71 pistons, and decking the heads .020" and regrinding the cam to match, you can acheive about 9.5:1 compression. Add a weber and a better exhaust and your looking at around 125 HP or so. Much better than the stock 73 HP anyway.... I wouldn't worry about the magnecore wires - any good 8mm set should do just fine. You won't notice any difference on these engines, as the ign. system isn't that hot. If you went with a high voltage system - like MSD or something, that would be different.... Get a used Weber and rebuild it - the Kit is not worth the price they ask - believe me - the instructions you get are crappy, and well..... check out my website if you don't believe me. I scanned the instructions, and put them up on my site. And there's pictures of what comes with the kit. They don't even include the right air filter unless your running lifted. The adapter is about $30 - $40 online, and the filter is $9.99 from EMPI (VW performance manufacturer). GD

Anything below the throttle plate - manifold - etc. Just tee off of some other line from the manifold.... GD

I tell you - Jared has more problems with wheel bearings than anyone I know.... hope someone can help - that just sucks. GD

Apparently, although CCR does a great job, they will not do heavy customization - like decking the heads, or regrinding a cam... so it really depends on what you want. For a stock engine, CCR is the way to go since all the parts would cost you just as much, and the labor must be figured as well... They will do some customization - such as using pistons from other subaru engines that will fit (eg EA71 into EA81..). GD

84 GL Wagon - 150k 85 GL Brat - 130k GD

Sarcasm *can* work in writing - you just have to write it to the lowest common denominator - in the army we call this "breaking it down to the lowest level". Difficult but not impossible. I still say it's a Subaru - Jared has a point in that the Jeeps and Yota's that are heavily modded are no better - they are not stock either - so what's the difference? I say "not stock" is the same no matter how you cut it. Call it what you want - it's really "formerly built by Subaru". Just cause someone has personalized it does not change where it came from in the first place. Is a Saleen mustang not an f-word anymore? Jareds soob is just as much a subaru as my lifted wagon is - he can off-road with me any time. GD

Yeah - I'm wanting to do this to a regular D/R 5 speed - not the FT version. I want the 1.45 low range rather than the 1.2. The 1.45 with 4.11 gears would make for a pretty good crawl ratio. Well - better than 3.9 anyway. GD

Must say - lookin good. Broke anything with all that torque yet? Heh GD

Ah - so this was a factory tranny then? Not something that was built and installed later? GD

Nope - the EJ series have a different bellhousing. How did you come to aquire this tranny? GD

Lets find someone with a big yard, and run our own rally - screw this silly class setup. Cars should be grouped based on engine size, and suspension type/hieght. It is simply not logical to make any type of class designations based on the sheet metal of the vehicle. An EA81 wagon has exactly the same drivetrain as a Brat - can I chop the back off my wagon and call it a truck then? It would even look like a brat then..... same goes for a hatch. We don't need the SCCA's money - you can sign a release form before you race. I bet we can do it for a lot less than $30 per person too. GD

Only two things that cause white smoke - burning coolant, and condensation. There might be a slow leak in the headgasket that isn't noticeable after it warms up, or there could be a small crack in one of the heads. Like I said tho - smell the exhaust to see if it's coolant..... GD

Could you put me in touch with the individuals who built that transmission of yours? Would really be interested in buying a kit with neccesary parts to do this conversion to a US trans..... GD

Ok - well one thing you'll be happy about - no need to buy a code reader as these cars don't use them. You read the codes by connecting two connectors together under the dash (or under the hood in some cases I think), and reading the codes from the long and short flashes of the light on the ECU. Do a search on EA82 ECU codes on the board and I'm sure you'll find which connectors to use - or someone else here (like Skip) can help with that as I don't know EA82's. The 02 Sensor is located in the exhaust manifold - it's right where the two pipes from the heads meet - at the "Y" in the pipe. Check it's operation via the ECU light first tho before pulling it. They can (and almost always are) a REAL pain to get out. Not because they are hard to get to, but because they are usually frozen solid with rust, and the alternating hot / cold of the exhaust seems to cause real problems that way. If you do replace it you will most likely need a special 02 sensor wrench or socket. And remember to use a liberal amount of anti-seize on the threads so it can come out if it ever needs replacing again. As for the LED in the ECU being out - I've never seen one go out. LED's are rated for insanely high hours of use. If it is out - best to just ask on the board if anyone has another ECU.... unless you are good with electronics, then you might be able to solder one in... I wouldn't personally bother - there's plenty of ECU's out there to be had. I think Skip meant that the 02 sensor had "run it's course" - not the ECU LED. If you see no light, then the 02 sensor is most likely bad. Replace it, and then check for a light. GD

Hey - looks AWESOME. We need to talk - about how you got 4.11 gears into that EA82 transmission - can I email you directly? This is all but unknown territory here in the states, but I would sure love to have those higer gears on my off-roader.... GD

A lot of people seem to like interstate batteries.... What I do is pick up used interstate's at the JY when I see one - $15 (+$5 core charge) for any battery - no matter what brand it is.... that's just me tho. I can usually tell when the battery is getting low - and I have multiple cars, so at the worst I'll just have to move one from another rig if it were to die unexpectedly... GD

Most likely it's just water vapor as Meeky pointed out. Take a whif of the exhaust - if it smells sweet, then it could be coolant, but if it's stoping after reaching temp, and you don't have an overheating problem, then I would say it's just normal water vapor. GD