GeneralDisorder

Yeah - gonna be hard to find a used radiator in your neck of the woods that isn't a rust ball - your choice is new, or get one of us west coasters to send you a used one - I might do it for say $20 over what it cost to get one + shipping, since they are pretty easy to pull, and I'm at the junk yards fairly frequently... GD

Yes - EA71 uses the same Weber kit as the EA81, so it should work the same. GD

Yeah - there's just tons in the Junk Yards for cheap - EA82's are what you see the most in the JY these days.... Down here - water pumps are $10, Alts are $15, etc.... GD

78 should have the starter in the center - you say drivers side.... might still be it tho - hard to tell. You didn't actually move it? So must be engine related..... At that temp check to see if the water pump was frozen solid - maybe you just fried the belt.... GD

I'm considering this swap as well. The carb is either a Holley 5200, or a weber 32/36 DFAV - depending on who made it. The choke is on the other side - so it has the added benifit of not being close to the disty on the EA81. It uses the same adaptor plate, and the weber square filter is availible in both heights for about $15 online. If you get one from a ford, the throttle linkage is not removable, so you must either cut it off and weld on a regular one, or change out your throttle cable to one with the right end for that carb..... The carbs are internally identical in design - in fact the rebuild kit from weber is the same part number - the 5200 is just turned around a bit, and has a different air cleaner opening.... Apparently the 2.3L ford engines also use the exact same jets as the 32/36 kit for a soob...... not sure about the 1.6, 1.7, and 2.0 engines.... GD

Use your immagination - take a trip to home depot, and check out the plumbing isle..... GD

He'll make it - and even if he's not on time it won't be the end of the world. I've been late comming back from leave - sure they will give him a rash of sh!z, but in the end there's really not a lot they can do. Slap on the wrist at the most. Glad to hear he's back on the road - I know his service to his country means a lot to him, and getting in a spot like that with your commander isn't a good way to start off comming back on from leave - but what's a soob lover to do? It's not like he can leave it sitting somewhere.... Best of luck Jared.. GD

Yes - find an EA81 to beat up - not a historic peice like the 75. That was the first year for Subaru 4WD in case you didn't know. Lifting it would be nearly a sin (and also pretty difficult so says Mudrat79 - who's done at least one). GD

As for corrosion inhibitors - there's zinc in the anitfreeze. Anytime you have two dissimilar metals and a liquid you have a battery...... the zinc attracts the corrosive properties of the battery effect so as not to ruin the soft aluminium. For this reason, the green style stuff should be replaced every other year EVEN if it tests good with a hydrometer, as the zinc will be gone by this time - they put zinc plates on outboard motors, and large ships with steel hulls for this same reason..... GD

Actually - unless you have messed with the carb internally it's not likely to be off.... more than likely your fuel pump can't keep up, or your filters are plugged - try a new air filter too - this may help a bit. If these cheap things don't help - rip the thing off and replace it with a weber. GD

Yep - I've heard some with HORRIBLE sounding lifters that run for years like that. It doesn't cause any damage really. Try some Marvel Mystery Oil - if that doesn't help then it's time for a new pump, or a reseal. For the cost and the time I would probably just get a whole pump - I think they are on the order of $60 or so... GD

1. You don't have to spend $320 for the 32/36 2. If you get a used one and rebuild it (or have a carb shop rebuild it for $50, and buy the adaptor and air filter, you'll still come in under $200, and you can't get a rebuilt hitachi, or a rebuilt carter - weber for this price. Also - rebuilding the Hitachi or the carter weber is not always possible due to primary throttle shaft wear. 3. Tons of aftermarket cool stuff for the 32/36 - like snorkel adaptors, manual choke kits, and filters.. 4. The 32/36 is completely tunable for modded engines - jet kits are cheap, and easy to install. I have been toying with the idea of using a 32/36 DFAV or DFEV from an early model ford - there's tons of these to be had in the JY - they use the same adaptor plate as the DGV's, air filters can be had online that look exactly like the DGV type for $15, and on top of that, the choke is on the other side so will not be close to the disty..... GD

Can't be as ugly as the one I'm going to pull out of a farmers feild..... GD

The battery tray area is just welded in I think. You can get one from another car (have to drill or cut the welds), and weld it in where yours was. Make sure to put a plastic tray on top of it to protect the new metal... GD

I suppose it depends on your winter - but yeah - I'm using it right now down to 15 degrees here - no problem - I'm sure it could go lower. The Subaru starters are very effective if you give em a good battery. GD

Yep - that's about normal for a used EA81. Sounds like it's got over 100k - to keep the OP higher - use a good brand of 20w/50. I like castrol - it seems to flow nice at low temps.... I have seen new EA81's (rebuilt from CCR) where the OP is at 50 at idle, and pegged while driving! And that's with 10w/30. After they break in, the bottom end gets sloppy (although for some reason, you hardly ever will hear any noises frorm this...), and lets the oil squirt out without reaching the top end - thus the lower OP reading... GD

On your EA82 - change your timing belts every 60k - they will blow like clockwork. If they do - no big deal - as these are non-interferance, but it will strand you. GD

Yep - it's easier to pull the engine to do the clutch tho - less lying on the ground! GD

The disty revurve is done to change the characteristics of the engine - where do you want the torque? Basically you tell them if you want the HP in the low range, or the high range. The curve in the disty tells when the timing will advance - low RPM's or high RPM's. EA71 pistons are ever so slightly different from EA81 pistons. They add more compression. Not a whole lot on their own, but they are part of a larger scheme of increasing the compression. The stock compression is 8.7:1. With the EA71 pistons, and decking the heads .020" and regrinding the cam to match, you can acheive about 9.5:1 compression. Add a weber and a better exhaust and your looking at around 125 HP or so. Much better than the stock 73 HP anyway.... I wouldn't worry about the magnecore wires - any good 8mm set should do just fine. You won't notice any difference on these engines, as the ign. system isn't that hot. If you went with a high voltage system - like MSD or something, that would be different.... Get a used Weber and rebuild it - the Kit is not worth the price they ask - believe me - the instructions you get are crappy, and well..... check out my website if you don't believe me. I scanned the instructions, and put them up on my site. And there's pictures of what comes with the kit. They don't even include the right air filter unless your running lifted. The adapter is about $30 - $40 online, and the filter is $9.99 from EMPI (VW performance manufacturer). GD

Anything below the throttle plate - manifold - etc. Just tee off of some other line from the manifold.... GD

I tell you - Jared has more problems with wheel bearings than anyone I know.... hope someone can help - that just sucks. GD

Apparently, although CCR does a great job, they will not do heavy customization - like decking the heads, or regrinding a cam... so it really depends on what you want. For a stock engine, CCR is the way to go since all the parts would cost you just as much, and the labor must be figured as well... They will do some customization - such as using pistons from other subaru engines that will fit (eg EA71 into EA81..). GD

84 GL Wagon - 150k 85 GL Brat - 130k GD

Sarcasm *can* work in writing - you just have to write it to the lowest common denominator - in the army we call this "breaking it down to the lowest level". Difficult but not impossible. I still say it's a Subaru - Jared has a point in that the Jeeps and Yota's that are heavily modded are no better - they are not stock either - so what's the difference? I say "not stock" is the same no matter how you cut it. Call it what you want - it's really "formerly built by Subaru". Just cause someone has personalized it does not change where it came from in the first place. Is a Saleen mustang not an f-word anymore? Jareds soob is just as much a subaru as my lifted wagon is - he can off-road with me any time. GD

Yeah - I'm wanting to do this to a regular D/R 5 speed - not the FT version. I want the 1.45 low range rather than the 1.2. The 1.45 with 4.11 gears would make for a pretty good crawl ratio. Well - better than 3.9 anyway. GD