GeneralDisorder

Actually - I think Rob said it's still around somewhere. HE doesn't have it anymore. The spousal unit had a little accident with it or something I think.... GD

As far as driving speeds the justy and the XT may share the fact that you can go any speed in 4WD, but the Justy is COMPLETELY different mechanically. For one thing the Justy is a transverse mouned 3 cylinder, with a PTO going to the rear on 4WD models. The tranny in the the Justy is a way different beast (and unique among subarus). GD

May it rest in peices...... GD

That's the tricky part. No and No. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal GD

Huh - for some reason I was thinking they were lo range only. Too bad - guess I'll have to swap in a D/R when I get my Gen 1. GD

Ah - yes I meant it's great of an off road RIG, with big tires. Cause you can still drive on the freeway.... or you install a 5 speed. Either way. GD

Actually - 3rd and 4th are different. And yes - the 82 4 speed's have the shorter gearing. It's great for off-road when you lift and put on big tires. GD

Actually Boz - in the scenario he's describing, the engine and tranny actually DO go up with the body. That's why the nissan transfer case - allows you to use drivelines to the front and rear. Basically turns the whole rig into a regular 4x4 truck arrangment underneath. I still think it's a body lift - with a change in the drive train that makes the drivetrain taller. But the diffs are still at the same location relative to the wheels - so it's still a body lift. GD

No - he's talking about single range 4WD - lever actuated. Not pushbutton. Those are low gear only right? If so the manual says don't exceed 40 MPH in low range. If it's high only - then as fast as you can go really - I've done 90 or more. GD

That's an interesting decal config that I haven't seen before - I like it. And yes - I have seen several GL decals that haven't turned yellow. Got one on my Brat - and I've got an extra from the JY - just happened upon it one day.... GD

Best bet is to take a Brat cam, and have it ground for torque, and deck the heads to match. Then you will have a torque monster. The 2WD cam would explain why my lifted wagon (formerly 2WD) has mucho cojones on the freeway - that and it's '82 4 speed. That thing fly's down the strip. GD

I towed an 84 turbo with a front wheel dolly - course it had a blown tranny so who knows if it did any damag, but if you think about it, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to. When they are in 2WD, the rear end is being turned by the wheels rolling. Removing the driveshaft is a good idea, but you'll lose all your tranny fluid if you don't cork it somehow. GD

Ok - I can tell you that you can forget the ECU - plugged in or not it won't matter with a weber. Should run fine either way. Mine's not even in the car anymore. 2nd - I just can't see how the vac modulator could cause it to run incorrectly. Obviously it won't drive without it, but have you tried disconnecting it completely to see if the engine runs better. Sounds like maybe a vacuum leak to me. If it ran with the hitachi, then it should run with the weber - just need to get it tuned right, and make sure there's no vac leaks. GD

Apparently that's true. They are supposed to have more of a torque grind to them. CCR will put them in for you..... must be some difference I would think. GD

Most times a rebuilt axle comes with a nut anyway. Still up to you to find a cotter pin. Never have figured that out. Seems like they could toss in a cotter pin, and let ME decide if I needed a nut or not. (I've bunged a few castle nuts too - had to beat em off with a coal chisel). GD

GD

Ah crap! So now they are sending you up Friday? And I suppose that your all leaving Sat afternoon right? Darn - I'm busy Friday too. That sucks. Oh well - Tony is off the hook then. hehehe I can get him some coin and have him start on my rear bumper with swing out tire carrier..... yeah! GD

Some things we have covered a great many times. Here's a great thread about that, and if you try out the search function up at the top of the page, you'll find other threads that cover this procedure too. I'm sure everything you need is to be found in them somwhere. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal GD

Hey Zap - you should watch the Moron eppisode of south park - you would love it. GD

Take it to a distributor shop and have it recurved. I'm sure they will get better results that you could ever get with removing springs and stuff. GD

He wasn't runnning in modified - he entered it in stock..... and since I was the judge - and there's no way in hell that car is stock...... aint a single thing on that car that he hasn't touched..... he didn't get sqat. His fault for entering in the wrong catagory. It is fast tho. Stupid paint job. Airbrushed "Baru" where the Subaru logo should be - what the hell is a "baru" anyway? Sure isn't what I was told to judge..... He's taken a lot of "artistic liberties" with the car. For one thing there was NEVER to my knowledge a dual carb EA81 imported to the states - just JDM stuff - blatantly NOT stock, and yet he insisted it was.... Guess I just didn't take to the guy - kindof anti-social he was.... Whatever. GD

Apparently - acording to the FSM, the 4WD's have a better torque curve. Curtesy of Skip I beileve for this info. Maybe he'll chime in.. GD

As I recall, Skip got that info from the FSM. Also - the 4WD ones (at least on the EA81's) are made by hitachi, and seem to be more tollerant of shaft play. My 2WD one would no longer function with half the shaft play that I have seen on perfectly functioning hitatchi's.... had to have it re-bushed. GD

Skip looked it up a while back, and the 4WD distys have a better power curve. The whole 2WD thing is a wives tale apparently. GD

Lift will help matters a LOT. But you will have linkage issues afterwards. Mudrat had to weld up parts of another 4WD shifter to mine in order to get it connected, and the gear selector sits at a funny angle (he had to torch it and bend it a bit) - gears aren't where you expect. 4th is where 2nd should be, and reverse is where 4th should be - whole thing is shifted to the left a bit. I'm just saying that you shouldn't expect it to just bolt everything together - there's going to be sticky problems that will require solving. You'll have to trade gas tanks, and complete exhaust systems. When you trade the tanks - make sure you swap the sending units too - keep the sending units with their respective gauges, or you could get unpredictable readings.... GD