GeneralDisorder

Oh - and even with your extra spacers, the 1.5" should work. I didn't have that extra stuff, and I could actually close the hood with the 3" filter - but it did hit it, and pushed it down a little. Anyway, if the 1.5" won't work, then niether will a setup like Skip's I don't think - basically the same height as the short weber version. And for only $10, it's worth a shot.... GD

I think your problem is not fuel pressure, but fuel volume. Mine does some interesting things like yours. If I take a hard left turn, she'll die completely, and then I have to restart - plain annoying. Also, I think there is a big difference in the fuel volume and pressure output from car to car. Age of the pump, and the state of the fuel lines, and gas tank may have something to do with this. I'm just speculating, but it does seem you have a lean condition, and the turning thing would definately be a problem if the fuel pump was unable to supply enough fuel to keep the float at it's proper level. GD

There's was a red interior. I've seen it. Was in a late 80's RS. The PIMP interior! GD

Intake between EA71 and EA81 is different, so I think the EA63 would be even smaller. GD

Man - they are so plentiful around here I couldn't begin to say. There's so many outbacks and foresters around it's amazing. The white and red EA82's are both very common still as well - see them everyday. But I'm sure I see more outbacks and foresters. I'm just wired to see the older stuff, but if you really look, there's far more of the newer ones. GD

You can get the short filter (1.5" I think) at any performance shop for about $10. I don't know why redline insists on giving us a filter that we don't need, is probably more expensive for them to make (more material = more cost), and won't fit under our hood. I had the same problem. I am with Skip in thinking you may have a lean condition. What fuel pressure are you getting? The weber needs a high-volume 4 PSI fuel source to work correctly. Here is a good page of info on that: http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel Low fuel pressure will cause surging like you describe. I put a clear fuel filter in my wagon, and can see the fuel flowing into it. With the stock pump, it's barely a trickle. I'm going to try one of those carter fuel pumps like they sugest when I get some money for it. GD

I think rebuilding engines is fun, and we need to do it so Subaru and others will keep making the parts. If our engines last too long, they will stop making parts for us. Soob engines are known to go 300k + with crappy maintenece, so what is the diff? I use Castrol 20w50, and it seems to work fine. I change it every 2k, and with an interval that short, I don't think it matters one way or the other. This isn't rocket science guys. GD

Diesel is awsome for off-road. I'll take a duece up against any off-roader out there, and barring the width, I'll go anywhere they will. Massive torque, 18,000 lbs of truck, and 6 wheel drive baby. 6 cylinder inline turbo diesel with pistons the size of coffee cans.... The military took a Hemmt (15 ton hauling capacity) to a tractor pull in Cali a number of years ago when the hemmt first came into service. It out pulled everything the civilians could throw up against it, and then some. Virtually unstoppable. Gives entirely new meaning to the going *through* the forest. If the tree isn't at least 6" around, you just drive right over it. The only thing that would beat a hemmt would probably be a tracked recovery vehicle Here's a Hemmt: http://military.railfan.net/mv/m977.jpg Here's the HET - used to move M1's from place to place. (M1's weigh about 26 tons!): http://military.railfan.net/mv/het.jpg And here's one of my favorites - the M578 recovery tank. They use these bad mofo's to pull stuck M1's out of the goo: http://military.railfan.net/mv/m578.jpg GD

Damn - that sucks. Well - I have to go to this ARMY gig Friday, and Saturday... maybe part of Sunday, so I don't know if I'll be there or not. I'm going to try and make an appearance, but probably won't get there in time to run anyway . The ARMY thing is at Camp Rilea down at the beach..... And without tires (waiting on some fundage), I can't claim the offset thing. No roll cage either. I guess I'm screwed. Crap - when I get the Brat lifted, I won't be able to run that either. I'm going to have to find another soob just for rallying. Hey Zap - find me a Gen 1 Brat...... hehe You sure they will let you run your hatch? Bob had all that stuff, but the hatch doesn't does it? Maybe they will let you go cause you have done it before. GD

Looks just like the two feedback 2 bbl EA81 Hitacihi's I have sitting here. My wagon used to have one, and so did my parts car. That one looks really nice - never used? Rick

Oh - I knew that - I had a Volvo 850 turbo that had a service light that came on every 5,000 miles. Only way to turn it off is to get the dealer to do it, or buy a $300 ODBII scan tool that knows about the proprietary Volvo codes. That's one of the small reasons I got rid of that peice of crap, and a big reason I wouldn't buy another one. GD

Your tach almost certianly runs off the distributor. Every one I've seen does anyway. That's why when the disty blows, the tach starts jumping all over the place. GD

What you are refering to with the downshift destruction, is actually valve "float". This can and will happen eventually on ALL engines with spring valve returns. The engine gets going so fast that the spring doesn't have time to close it before the piston strikes it - in older pushrod engines, this often meant a bent pushrod, and probably a busted valve too. High performace engines combat this with stronger valve springs, but this is a slippery slope. Hotter valve springs cause increased wear on the rest of the valve train, and you end up eating cam shafts, and you need better spring retainers, etc. You end up having to upgrade everything to get them going really fast. SOA got a justy up to around 12,000 RPM's, but it needed a LOT of engine work to get there without blowing up. Back in the day, before electronic ignition modules, this would happen with the points in your disty. You get up to 8,000 or 10,000 RPM's and the points float - then no more spark, so the engine cuts out. They combated this with dual point systems, and even tri-point systems. The tri-point systems required a LOT of patience to get tuned right, cause the tolerances were so close. IIRC, the tri-point stuff was good upwards of 15,000 RPM's or so..... GD

Yours could be a lot different. On the EA81's you change the connector permanently, so it can't come back. It's a one time deal. Yours might - I don't know. GD

I LOVE "hispanic" yards. They don't drive soobies, and I get stuff on the cheap. Not only that, but there's never any posted prices, so everything is negotiable. hehehe GD

Right on - so is the EA82 a feedback carb? GD

Huh - you can do that? I thought you just replaced them. I guess I'll try that tho - can't hurt. My opinion of the former owner has sunk to a new low. That light has been on solid for 67,000 miles, and they did nothing about it. Amazing. GD

Must be state specific - apparently the feds call it a car, but some states don't..... weird. I don't suppose it really matters - all you need is documentation showing that SOME part of the government considers it a truck, and I'm sure any court in the land would drop a case about riding in the back - give you a warning maybe. You could make a case for yourself just saying the laws are too confusing, and contradictory. GD

Guess that shows how many times my poor Brat has been serviced. I just went out and fixed it.... YAY! I guess this isn't a big topic since most of them have already been reset. I was thinking it was a recuring type of light - comming on EVERY 60,000. Kindof strange that they would only have it come on once. This is a difference between the 82+ dash and the 80/81 dash - I just verified that the 80 dash I have does NOT have an EGR light at all. Interesting.... GD

Now that information really should be in the repair manual. If we were still on the old board, I would archive this one. My silly underwear manual says nothing about this little gem. THANKS SKIP! GD

They did in at least the Cali market - mandated by law I think. That of course is assuming that carbed stuff was even sold there... pretty sure at least in 85 they were. must have O2 sensor... ect GD

Now that is a very interesting answer - where would I find more info along these lines? Anyone know if / where I can find these plugs? ...... but you have three Brat's in your sig... do you not own them anymore? GD

Sweet - another Jag bites the dust. Always hated those leaky peices of dook. If I were you, I would find him, and beat him sensless - sounds like maybe he's got enough money not to care about the fines, but I'll bet he wouldn't forget a busted nose real easily. Give him a choice - get the holy crap beat out of him, or you sue and take everything he owns - wrecked jag included. Would be interesting to see if he's a real man or not without his fancy wheels. GD

The RX had a 5 speed D/R with locking diff option. Although not all RX's had them - some were Auto's. People do swap these in, but I think the main reason you don't see it often is because they are not easy to come by. 5 speed D/R tranny's can be found pretty cheap at the drop of a hat, but not the special diff locking ones. GD

Ever since I bought my Brat the EGR light has been on constantly. Now I'm guessing that it's probably cause the EGR isn't functioning (just guessing). The light is on SOLID all the time. Never goes out - never flashes. What I'm wondering is how this marvelous light works? I looked at the EGR - made funny faces, contorted myself into the engine compartment tracing vacuum lines.... and for the life of me, I can't figure out how the light comes on. What sensor does this job? As far as I can see there is no wires going into anything related to the EGR, or the anti-backfire solenoid. I suppose I could just replace the EGR, but I'm one of those people who has to know WHY, and HOW it works before I touch it. Am I just crazy? GD