Sweet82

I'd jump power to the red and green wires at the clip (blower) and see if you have a good blower motor?

Welcome to the board, If Miles has not attempted it or at least, messed with it, there is a good chance no one has

Easy, Easy, Easy! Just follow the same routing as your factory cable and then go buy a spare cause it will break again!! My cables always seem to break in heavy traffic while I'm waiting to make a left hand turn. Before I know it I'm in first gear traveling forward with no where to go Besure you tighten the double nuts on the adjustment end so they don't adjust themselves.... Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

Sweet car! I'll buy it for $500 Seems like it would be an easy fix for a nice ride.

Other than being too clean, they look great!

I'll be real close! I'm going to be in the San Rafael Swell (impacting the enviornment) that weekend. Probably only an hour to the west. Love to hook up with you folks... I'm not sure if "Summer" is going to make the trip to the Swell or not. I still have no trailer and my Trooper just blew the head gasket This is where friends come in handy Whereabouts unknown, Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer--wants to go the the San Raf. 01 Forester--been to the San Raf. (with all the other cactus hugging Subaru Owners--everyother car there is a Subaru)

My bet is you like the Forester! If you get a chance take it in the mountains on some gravel/dirt roads and give it a chance to run... Impressive little bugger! Bet the Forester is faster than the Alfa? Friend used to have an Alfa, got hit, the fastest way to get parts was to walk to Italy and carry the parts back Welcome, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

Any EA82 tranny, which should be a 5 speed, should bolt right up to your EA81? The problem you would have is the driveline. On the 5 speed you have several drivelines and you'd have to fabricate some mounts. The 4 speed you have has just the one solid driveline. You may be able to use or modify (lenghten or shorten) the 4 sp driveline to work with the 5 sp tranny? What year tranny are you looking to mount? Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--shortened driveline. 01 Forester--standard dirveline.

Guess my SAWZALL answer would be wrong?

This is what I have on the back of the Buggy http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=445&pricetype= The only down side I see to the winch is it says it has no auto lock, although I have never had it unwind on me? I use snatch block too, just in case.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=32&sort=1&cat=500&page=2 Good Luck, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

Great Video, Musta been incredibly slippery, Any damage by anyone? Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

Steps and points make it easy for people like me to follow Looks Good! Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

You are aware that you must aquire additional Subarus, within your probationary period, to remain in "Good Standing" on the board

I've been looking for an LSD for some time and have not found one yet. The problem as S'Ko mentioned is it will be geared at a 3.7 so you will probably need to change out the internal gears to a 3.9. I'm not real convinced an LSD is going to be noticable off-road. It will probably help a bit but I'm not sure it's worth the effort. I believe it's best application is on snowy pavement. If you put a wheel in the air your still going to spin it and not spin the one on the ground. It's not a locker and not positraction. A welded diff will get you where you want to go but you still have the axle removal issue for pavement. It should take 5 - 10 minutes to pop the diff off and pull an axle off it. My .02 Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--welded 01 Forester--limited

Potential security problem but, I had the original coded key in my hand and that makes some sort of statement of ownership.

At my local dealership they are always FREE. It's a nice courtesy/P.R. thing. I've never had to do anything to prove ownership. Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

If you start from Ken's lake the obsticale will be Uphill. Starting from Ken's lake you will drop through the river and slowly beging climbing and do a gradual left over the next several miles. You'd go through a small reviene then do a hard left up loose stuff to some large unmovable bolders. At that point your going up a loose rh sharp corner sloping to the cliff on the left. At that point your staring at a large 4-5' wall which you must climb. Once up the climb you must make your way up through the loose stuff on the steep hill. At the top of the hill is the second of two gates on that trail. It may be possible to winch some Subies up that but only with a heavy rig up top. This is real close to the Flat Pass trail. Once you get through this obstacle there are some sandy washes that can take you directly to Flat pass, bypassing a large part of Steel Bender. What adds injury to insult ie virtually everything else on Steel bender has a by-pass or is Soobable. If you start from Ken's Lake your not going to get a Subie up that cliff W/O some steel cable.

Wondering if anyone has had any experience welding or modifying the Y pipe. I'm looking to angle my pipe upward a bit to give it more clearance off the ground as the exhaust continues rearward. I'm using the "stock" Y pipe AND exhaust system off my Hatch, in the buggy. In the Hatch the exhaust was no lower than the body and not an issue. Now it's in the buggy it's the lowest point in the center of the buggy. If I could angle it up, I could run the exhaust system to the tale pipe much higher and have more "high center" clearance. Has anyone modified or welded the Y pipe? Is it good metal or will it nuke if I fool with it? I had in mind a thin cut at the end of the Y pipe, bending the cut closed and then closing the cut with a quick weld. Maybe several times... The end result is changing the angle of the end upward. Good Idea : ? Bad Idea ? Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--wants more center ground clearance 01 Forester--also wants more clearance.... ***Changing the angle after the Y pipe is pointless because it's so far to the rear, I wouldn't be gaining anything in the center of the vehicle.

WARNING! Steel Bender has an impassable obsticale! :-\ There is a cliff on a corner slanted to the outside that the Subie overhang will not go up or down and there is NO bypass on this one. Even if you stack rocks it's not Soobable in either direction. You'd need a divorced T/C, winch and a good lift for this one. We went down it in a modified Cherokee and put a strap off the back to insure it wouldn't endo I went up Prichett out to the Hole in the Rock, ate lunch, then down Kane Creek and back to the beginning of Prichett (where your talking about camping) all on a Trials Bike! :eek:SOLO! ...Had to lift the cycle up some of the ledges... There ain't no way a Subie is going up or down that canyon.

I once got 21 mpg on a road trip Not real happy with that but the car is great!

Mudrat has kinda figured out where I was going with this thread. My diff is welded and I was looking for a list of parts to carry on the trail. I'd like to know from those who have been there what parts to carry for repairs. My concern is "Slick Rock" and a welded diff. Slick Rock has incredible traction. Incredible traction and a welded diff worry me :-\ What I'm getting is, Spare axle, Spare axle stub/diff Spare axle cup...anything else a candidate for a field repair? Do any/all of these parts have a front and rear or are all parts interchangable front to rear? And when I go Junkyarding are manuel EA81's the same as EA82's on these parts (hatches & wagons). Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester **I currently have just one rear axle in place for City use**

What about "Portaging" the crack? Come prepared with a prota bridge? "Top of the World" has not been mentioned and is doable in a Subie and the view can't be beat!!! It would be a long hard uphill with a few steps but I think any lifted modifed Subie could make it. And a stock subie with the right driver Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

Never Gonna Happen! You ain't gettin a Subaru over Golden Spike. There is the Golden Crack which stops all unmodified Jeeps. Sort of bridging the gap you'd never get a Subie through it. http://www.4x4now.com/31jsgs.htm Depending on the direction you run the trail there is an off camber section which is dangerous. Gearing and overhang is the problem we face in Moab with our Subies. It's the short STEEP climbs that will be the problems. The gold bar trail is potentially do'able from the Gemini Bridges side. There is a lot of short walls to climb but some can be by-passed allowing Subaru Overhang to pass safely. Because of the By-passes on Hells Revenge I think you could Sub over most of it with out much problem. There is a problem section on Fins and Things that I'm not sure a subie could do. It's on the RHS of Sand Flats Road. No matter which way you go your going to hit either a overhang problem or a clearance/wheel lift problem. The portion of Fins on the LHS is doable and a must! I haven't seen anything on Porcupine that I though was NOT doable in a Subie. Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester

Been reading a bunch of threads recently about LSD's and Welded diffs. The LSD seems like it would be somewhat pricey to manufacture/buy. With that in mind Welding seems like a good alternative for off-road. Question: With the diff welded, is there a known weak link in the system? Is there a likely spot for failure? I know Toyotas break the "burfield joints" when the pressure gets too much. In the Subies does the axle or the stub shaft or what, break most often with a welded diff? Is there a known weak link in the welded diff rear end? Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--Welded Diff 01 Forester--LSD

I wanted to limit the upward travel on "Summer's" front tires. Just so in an emergency, I don't put the tire into the frame. What has anyone used for bump stops in a Buggy/off-road situation? Where have you mounted them on the arm? There is little clearance between the steering/brake lines/axle for a bump stop. Just wondering how anyone else has dealt with this issue? Thoughts? Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester ***Does anyone know the maximum strut travel w/o damaging the strut?***