mcbrat

also, on ea81's, I've beaten the snot out of the inner strut well area, and ground away at the strut lift block to slide it as close to the engine as I can I have 4" blocks, struts are adjusted all the way up, and I have RX springs (to counteract the weight of the bumper/winch) and my camber is near perfect.... I do have a lot of weight to settle it, but I still have 9" clearance under the skid plate low point....

the arrow should be facing the front of the vehicle....

I would check all your vac connections for holes/cracks/leaks.... and check your vac advance on disty as well...

look at the sidewall of the tires for their size, or the stamp on the wheel.

those in the pic look like they should fit.... 195/65R15's will fit on a ea81, and no problems at all on a loyale... what size are the ones you're looking at?

that style was available in 15" and 390mm (15.3:) make sure they are not the metric 390mm wheels. very hard/expensive to get tires for... if you keep a stock wheel for a spare, be sure to keep the stock lug nuts with it

that's just a tube from a Ford... there's just a weber 32/36 under the snorkle adapter....

that's the pitching stopper. It's the long rod that has a bushing at one end, threads on the other. connects to a bolt under the spare tire tray, and into a bracket bolted to the top of the bell housing.... you can see it here underneath my intake tube... http://usmb.net/gallery/album238/PDC_0078

I have an new ea81 shortblock sitting at home I can get some pics of.... any particular shots/angles you're looking for? here's a few pics of it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24348&highlight=ea81

it's a Subaru knob, from a Gen1, but not a Brat. it may have been on a Brat when he got it.... I have one in my 82.... I got mine from a 73 Wagon... here's a 74 Brochure showing it.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/74acc-3.jpg

the shorter shaft is the one that get's replaced(lengthened). I've done it a couple of different ways.... 1. loosen up both sides of the connector so that it can slide both ways. I usually use a big screw driver to widen out the connector (both sides). slide the connector down as far as possible onto the short shaft, and take it off the upper shaft first. 2. take off the nuts/bolts that hold the rag joint onto the rack first, then swing the bottom of the short shaft out, and take out of the connector... You can also loosen the steering column nuts under the dash to give it some more play....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=289730&postcount=8

there are dozens of yards in my metro area, but only 1 that lets you go in and walk around. no charge to just look...

here's the one in my brat http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo95

by turning it out more, it let's more fuel flow through the idle circuit, so the primary jets should go bigger so that the idle circuit can be turned in more... this should help fuel consumption at idle as well....

I would check to see if your vac advance on the disty will hold a vacuum first. then I'd work with adjustments to the idle mixture screw. I knw all of camerons docs, and the weber docs say if you are more than 2 or 3 turns out, it's too far, but I've had the best performance when I was nearly 4 turns out......

I just use a stock one stretched up to the radiator.... or, I drill a small hole in the very edge of the filter top, and hook the spring in there.... any decent hardware store should have a good variety of springs to use....

no, didn't rejet it. replaced the missing hing pin on the float, and fied up the choke linkage, It had plenty of low end, but even with the lift, and 225/70R14's on it, it had better highway speed than any of my other ea81's. I had a '86 Brat hydraulic lifter ea81 with 192k miles on it, installed with the weber in a '87 wagon.... I wrote down all the jetting numbers so I can compare it to my other 3

side note: Tony, the weber I got from you ended up being one of the best ones I've run. even with a ea81 in the "ea82" wagon, it had plenty of power. as far as getting parts, there are usually some on eBay.. and can be had pretty cheaply sometimes.... when I had a new weber on my old 82 wagon, I made some idle mixture changes on the fly as I drove from Iowa to Washington, and back. probably didn't get the best mileage, but it never quit working on me.... (the Idle mixture circuit is always used, as the primary and secondary circuits just add to the total amount of fuel being supplied...

if you could find some STD hatch doors, that would eliminate some work there, as they didn't come with trim.....

here, the door handles were shaved, but still left the lock for entry.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/brats/cbrat/cbrat.html

I rebuilt the top end of the one on the right, and on the left one I did a cleaning and moved the acc/pump from the other side since it was in better shape, and put a new gasket on it... same problem... I initially thought the one on the right was the badone,and now think it's the one on the left...

how hard to replace just acc pump/diaphram on gen1 hitachi carb? I have one that's doesn't want to give forth any fuel unless I mash it... off idle, it just want to die, until I mash it, then it's start spraying... with soob shut off, it is dripping fuel out of the primary nozzle, and the acc pump boot is torn, and looks like it's leaking... thoughts....

I wonder why they did that... The Brat was introduced in August of 77 as a 78 model. the last one I had was a Sept. 77 model the same color as Skips....

I replied to you PM about decals. plus, I have available reproduction seatbelt "booties" Those are $20 shipped for the pair.