mcbrat

Use this thread to list items you will be bringing to MW3 to sell, or post here if you are looking for something, and would like to pick it up at MW3.... I have to sell: jump seats/frame (no belts/headrests) ea81 fenders some new, some used ea81 hood misc lights LSD's (have possibly 2. can leave 3.70 or possibly convert to 3.90 for an additional fee) Weber Carbs. maybe 2. might add more later...

looks like it was fun

anyway to get pics... I need to have one exactly like the one I have... after talking with a racer friend, I definitley want to get a "factory" one. don't want to use one off a weber....

anybody have one of these nedle valves? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36850 I have 1 missing...... also, I know there are a couple of folks out there with the dual carb set-up... can somebody get a closeup pic of the mounts for the synchro bar. I had to mkae my own, but I'm still curious what a stock one looks like....

and these are old Chevy wheels drilled to fit the 4 lug.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=323&sort=1&cat=535&page=1

Saylorville is North of the metro area. The closest would be anything on the following roads... Merle Hay Rd. NE 14th 2nd Ave. I'll do some scouting about... I think hotels.com or some site like that can do a closest to address thing... I'll check on that too....

Event is kind of a strong word basically it's a fairly un-organized gathering of soobie freaks, with the main "show" being on Saturday the 6th at the shelter, and it's a BYOBev/Food deal, as there won't be enough people to warrant the same facilities as WCSS7 . the rest of the time (friday night, saturday night, sunday morning) it's a USMB campout. I will have some driving routes laid out just for "cruising" the local places of interest, but Polk County is like 99.8% paved, so no bottomless mud this time around.... I need to get going on getting the camping spots, so please, everyone, let me know if you need a camping spot... I need to dig my notes out again and see how we can work it....

the soobie rear suspension cycles in an arc, so when you only use a suspension lift, it swings in that arc, and get's closer to the front of the wheel well. If you put lift blocks at the trailing arm tube mounts, then it corrects this, but you lose a bit of clearance under the tube...

I believe that's for the ea82 clocks. the ea81 clock resetting to 1:00 is a different common problem. You need to unhook the "open door/key in IGN switch dinger" if you take off the plastic bottom steering column covers, you will find a single wire that leads up to the IGN lock/switch mechanism. it usually has a bright green connector. you just need to unplug it. all should go back to normal (just no more dinger) if you really need the dinger, you probably need to replace it, or possibly get the IGN switch/lock cleaned. not really sure what the "true" problem is, as I never liked the dinger anyway....

saw a gen1 Brat tonight here in town. a little rust in the rear wheel well lips, but fenders/hood were good. definitely not an Iowa Brat. was a young kid driving it.... too bad he was going the opposite direction.... it had a high roll bar on it too....

in my mind, doing the rings is considerably more work than just throwing on a new set of headgaskets... of course I'm lazy

my old Mountain Grizzly had the swap done before I got it, and Igot all the original stuff with it, but no backing plate, so I believe it's just the calipers, rotors, pads. with my current lifted 82 Brat, I stayed with the solid rotors. I don't have to worry about mud getting in and making them unbalanced...

check your fusible links....

I've been running an Accel Super Coil (the big square block kind, without any problems...) I put a MSD Blaster Coil in the 87 wagon with ea81 that I just sold. it worked pretty good, though I vaguely recall that it may have the same issues as the accel superstock replacement coil... additionally, you might also want to look into the MSD6A type of ignition (double sparking), but not sure if that would work/mess with the ECU on the turbo.....

Did you grind off the bell housing areas? it could be rubbing there.....

so there was no noise with the driveshaft removed? if the tranny was out of a '85 RX, it would be the wrong ratio, but that doesn't seem to be your problem.... I had a front diff go out once (broke a tooth) and it made the car feel like it was jumping. loud pops, and cracks. sounded horrible, and drove even worse. when it first went, I was on the interstate, and I thought a helicopter was flying low over me, until my shifter started flailing about wildly. I pulled off at the exit I just happened to be at, and it got worse. I had it towed home, and I pulled the tranny drain plug, and tooth came out amongst all the other shavings....

good call-out on the tail lights Ed... the wiring is slightly different on the 82's as compared to the 83-87's. I've had to replace the lense on mine, and keep the "internals". normally I just swap the whole unit out, but with the 82's, you gotta have the 82 internals (or figure out waht's differnt and re-wire them... yes, they made a black Brat in '82. I have had one.

yes, the driveshaft to the rear always spins becuse of the rear wheels. only when you pull it into 4wd will it lock together with the front... if you installed the driveshaft without having to move the tranny or rear diff, you should be fine. ( just put in a new lengthened one today....) make sure your 4WD selector is in the proper position. if it only drives in 4WD, you will definitely get lots of knocks and chirps, and clicks on the pavement like that, especially when turning. if the 5 speed is like the 4 spd, there is a "neutral" spot between 2wd and 4wd, and if your shifter isn't allowing you to get all the way into 2wd, it will just let you sit there...

I put a ea81 2-core in a '87 wagon.... had to do a little tweaking to the metal up front, but worked okay....

What gear oil do you need use in VLSD from Turbo Legacy?

What gear oil do you need use in VLSD from Turbo Legacy?

are you trying to run with the 79-85 Toy steering (push/pull), or did you switch to the IFS steering (side to side)components?

do you know if it's the 1600 intake modified to fit the 1800 or the true ea81 dual carb intake that was on the ea81 JDM RX's?

all true. the gen1 brats (and possibly the 4wd wagons too) had just slightly different front/rear ratios(3.900/3.899 and this was by design), which would load up faster if on hard surface/non-slip surface. engaging will always be easier, because the front and rear as spinning independently,until engaging,and it locks them, then the load up on the driveline occurs if there's no slippage..... and keeping the tires rotated and with the same size and pressure all around will lessen the effect....

Mary, go to the Homepage, and click on the "Subaru BRAT" link on the left side... there's a "Brat Colors" page with tons of pics of stock and custom brats. also from the Homepage, if you check the "80's Subarus" page, there is a General specs area that has some photos too....