golucky66

Service procedure says to peal back the inner fender cover. Turn the wheel as needed to give you access. I've had luck loosening the battery hold down and moving the battery over as far as possible. But not being able to see your car is hard to say which is better.

The EJ255's are JD04 turbos. Had mine go on my 04 Baja last night because I accidently ran it a 2 quarts low on oil. Engine was fine but there just wasn't enough pressure to send enough flow to the turbo. Bearing was making noise. Filled oil to correct level and drove it nice and easy. The fan ended up locking up and now I have a restricted exhaust. Woo. No engine damage or anything though. I would definitely be more cautious buying a high mileage turboed car. But no rule it out completely. If you did buy it, you could always have a mechanic rebuild the turbo with a kit and you'll be good as new and not have to worry about it blowing up and possibly taking out your engine. Agreed though, the 6 cylinder has just as much power as the EJ255 and better low end power.

We use BG conditioner at my shop on any flush we do. It will not hurt your transmission at all. It will actually help. It's designed to help keep the ATF in It's ideal state to keep the additive packages from kinda of "falling out" of the fluid. The BG kit helps keep those stable for longer and if they do fall out it helps keep the fluid from wearing out prematurely.

Imo what I would do is just get to whichever socket is easier to access (probably rear) and put a bulb in and see if it works. Why waste your timing trying to pinpoint a fuse that may or may not be bad. Putting a known good bulb in gives you a quick and clear answer of "it's not a burned out bulb, it's something further upstream". I've had cars where all 3 brake lights are out. I spent an hour or two diaging the wires, all to find out that all three brake lights were burned out. Start with the quick, cheap, and simple stuff before getting into the more difficult and time consuming stuff.

Could very easily use a EJ255 from a Baja, forester, or legacy. Build 215 ish hp. It's turboed if you're interested in that. Any of the above options are good too. Just depends what you want to do

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I have a LED kit in my car and provided they're adjusted properly they don't blind other drivers. High beams, yes. Low beams, no. Personally I'd buy a lens with a 9007 in the back so you can put a LED bulb in there. If you want the cheapest potential. But when it comes with LED headlights, typically a 25$ set have a really bad beam pattern. Most headlights that blind other drivers are due to out of adjustment, or they're the projector style and the car is going up or down a hill.

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1997_Legacy25L-MT-4WDOutback-Touring-Wagon/__6027007/MANUAL-GEAR-SHIFT-SYSTEM/B11-350-02.html Link to parts diagram for your car. OEM part numbers below. You'd have to call your local dealer for availability because the online catalog is always wrong. Edit: Darn... Didn't post it fast enough. Lol

Or just spray fuel all over. I mean its not a ton of pressure... Lol

Pull the fuses under the dash aswell to narrow down the location of the draw.

Unless someone adjusted the screw that changes the direction of the lens, adjusting that would be a Band-Aid for a different issue

Is the "more powerful" bulb still a halogen/stock style (HID if it came with HID) or did you upgrade the style as well (like to LEDs) If you upgraded the style, there is a possibility that that style doesn't shine correctly in the lens and therefore isn't reflecting to the road properly. Another possibility is that the bulb isn't installed correctly and isn't seated properly again, causing the above problem. But is actually an issue due to improper installation.

I use the above stuff at work al the time. Usually the purple stuff, but I've used green too. Never had an issue with it on rubber (the green one)

^ oh my god. Agree so much. Take care of your car with regular maintenance and the big stuff will take a lot longer to need to be done.

So, I'm assuming your car has HID headlights then? Usually a halogen wont causes those issues. Ferrite coils might work, or it might not. All depends what kind of interference that's happening. Interference can be because of the magnetic field,which, gets fixed by the ferrite coils. Or it can be the ballast is emitting it's own waves which happen to be on a similar frequency as the Bluetooth. Then lastly, the interference can be getting into the Bluetooth equipment via the 12v power wire. I'm having a similar problem with interference on radio waves with my LED headlights. The ballast should be a box that's either directly next to the bulb (in the lens) or more commonly, near the lens on the frame rails.

The oil burning engines were the early FB25 which come in foresters starting in 2011. They slowly fixed the problem every year after 2011 but my gfs 2013 burns oil pretty badly. The 2014's that I've worked on aren't too bad and Imo, 2015's and up are pretty much fixed. So, if it were me, I'd buy pre 2011. Or post 2014. Kinda messes up your 2-4 year range though. Best of luck.

Agreed with Numbchux, most if not all aftermarket cats suck. They woo you in with low prices compared to the OE but they don't last anywhere near as long.

If you have a LSD you can use 75w90 or 80w90 but you need to add a friction modifier (I'm pretty sure it's called that, or at least something similar) otherwise you will wear out the clutch packs pre-maturely.

^ second on the only using OEM flywheel.

I've only ever had experience with the Exedy clutch. Never had an issue with that brand. Not to say the others aren't good.

Imo, sounds similar to an ignition coil starting to go bad. Slight to bad misfire when under heavy load (going up a hill in OD)

I have a 96 Impreza L with a 2.2 AT. I'll post what mine red lines at when I get home from work. If no body gives you a definite answer by then.

The only thing about a high(er) HP car with a manual in the snow. Is you'll need to ride the clutch when taking off in first gear or you'll spin. My 04 Baja Turbo manual can be a pain. If you don't take off very very gently ill spin all my tires (with really good tires) on a take off. The only thing I missed about an automatic. I do like the manual in the snow because you can keep it in whatever gear. But taking off on a hill can be a tad difficult.

Don't put any sealer on a gasket, ever. Especially on a head gasket. The only time you should use a liquid gasket in addition to an actual gasket is when there is two pieces of metal that meet and form a split in the gasket surface. And even then its just a tiny dab to ensure the seam is sealed. Everyone has different preferences on HGs. A lot of guys on this site will say something about turbo engines HGs. I've never used them so i don't have experience with them. I've only ever used OEM gasket and Fel-Pro. Both of which work fine provided the procedure was done correctly.

Imo,usually the cat fails. But putting in 1 or 2 O2 might fix the problem long enough for you to sell it without a check engine light.